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Ok, so I've done a search on making your own flight cases and where is best to get the materials from to do so. In a nut shell where is the best place? Opinions not needed of whether its worth making them myself. Thanks in advance.
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Unless you have spare time on your hands, good woodworking skills, a decent workspace and the right tools, etc... it's unlikely to be worthwhile. The companies that build cases as their main business activity are fully kitted out to do this and their products are IMO fairly priced for a good product. Unless this is your forte/hobby, personally I'd steer well clear, as you're likely to end up devoting a lot of time and effort to something that may turn out disappointing and cost you only a little less than if you'd bought from a flight case manufacturer.
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Unless you have spare time on your hands, good woodworking skills, a decent workspace and the right tools, etc... it's unlikely to be worthwhile. The companies that build cases as their main business activity are fully kitted out to do this and their products are IMO fairly priced for a good product. Unless this is your forte/hobby, personally I'd steer well clear, as you're likely to end up devoting a lot of time and effort to something that may turn out disappointing and cost you only a little less than if you'd bought from a flight case manufacturer.

 

Not to mention that whatever you put in it may well end up f&*$ed too.

 

Maybe you could get a stock-size flight case nearest to your needs from somebody like Flightcase Warehouse (not too expensive, particularly their used cases) then customising to your exact needs. That's what I've done, adding cooling and power connections to the cases for more 'use in-case' options.

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Opinions not needed of whether its worth making them myself. Thanks in advance.

 

Unless you have spare time on your hands, good woodworking skills, a decent workspace and the right tools, etc... it's unlikely to be worthwhile.

 

We use Electrovision most of the time (but not always). They supply most of the basic parts you'll need, including Penn parts (at better prices than Penn for small quantities), including Handles, Castors, Lid maker and basic extrusions and corners. The wood / board is not supplied by them however.

 

To reply to the quotes, those who have the skills save a fortune.

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Competitive on foam

 

http://www.efoam.co.uk

 

Goodish company but some of what they sell isn't 'as described'.

 

Their flight case foam isn't quite as tough as the stuff you usually find in flight cases, and their 'acoustic foam' is open-cell making it acoustically useless. They call it sound-proof... to soundproof anything more than some ipod headphones with that stuff you'd need to buy it about 10 foot deep, which would be a little uneconomic alongside just building a wall there.

 

If you're not giving the case too much of a hard time, the flight case / packing foam is fine and I do have it in 2 of my cases.

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....and their 'acoustic foam' is open-cell making it acoustically useless. They call it sound-proof...

 

To describe an open cell foam as a soundproofing element is somewhat misleading. Yes, it might reduce the sound level in the room, but it is unlikely to have a meaningful effect upon sound transmission from the room.

 

As a material to help control or modify RT60, reflections etc., open cell foams (albeit with controlled cell size and structure, and often with specific additives to improve its fire retardancy ) account for much of studio acoustic treatments. In this role, open cell foams are acoustically useful.

 

Soundproofing calls for mass, mechanical isolation, absorption and dealing with direct and flanking transmission paths (usually conduction and resonance).

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Ive found the most economical way to build flight cases is to use plywood from your local timber yard, as here in Australia the nice Laminate covered board from Penn Fabrication is 2-4x as much as regular ply sprayed black.

 

Then all the rest of the components come from Penn Fabrication/Elcom.

 

Lined my cases with 'Pearlised Foam' from a mate who makes the stuff by the roll, nice solid stuff that should last a long time, and if it ever gets dirty just give it a wipe over with a damp cloth, fixed to the inside of the case with liberal amounts of Liquid Nails (That's also what the rest of the case is held together with)

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There is also a world of difference between the cheap, somewhat flimsy cases that can be bought at low cost from the usual budget suppliers and the bespoke solidly built custom case that you entrust your multi £000 lighting or sound desk to. Both have their place, but it's often hard to genuinely save money by making your own version of the cheap cases, unless you are buying the parts in at a very good rate or as Tony states you simply aren't adding in your labour costs.
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Plywood sprayed black is much cheaper then hexaboard or acrylic coated plywood - that's pretty obvious, but if you want a case that is protective and don't care that it looks like .....painted wood is fine. If you want a case that doesn't stand out as something knocked up in the shed, then you have to use proper materials and pay the extra.
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To describe an open cell foam as a soundproofing element is somewhat misleading. Yes, it might reduce the sound level in the room, but it is unlikely to have a meaningful effect upon sound transmission from the room.

 

As a material to help control or modify RT60, reflections etc., open cell foams (albeit with controlled cell size and structure, and often with specific additives to improve its fire retardancy ) account for much of studio acoustic treatments. In this role, open cell foams are acoustically useful.

 

Soundproofing calls for mass, mechanical isolation, absorption and dealing with direct and flanking transmission paths (usually conduction and resonance).

 

Marking a bit boring, Simon?

 

KC

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