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ah I read about fusing.... I think that if you blow the fuse on an output you usually blow the triac too (due to shorting, etc)... however, I will probably have a seperate controller board linked to the optos and triacs, etc by spade connectors or something for easy replacement...
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FF fuses usually cost more than a triac, use PCB mount terminal block for connecting triac, leaving field servicable with a screwdriver. Use as big a triac as you can get 800V 25A sort of thing for your 5A 240V dimmer.

 

Triacs behave badly with the surge of an arcing out dying lamp, alternistors behave better and are more robust or reverse parallel SCR in a big enough rating will be pretty much bombproof.Cost goes up with choices

 

Its the chokes, boxes, heatsinks and connectors that actually add the cost, the firing card costs nothing....

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  • 2 weeks later...

erm, could you make a custom dimmer, say 3 dim channels and 3 switching suitable for a permanent installation? would you want something so that if all the signals are less than 0.1v turn off all the output parts via relay?

 

would that be a good reason to make one, say for a garden... mount it indoors, and you can have loads of sensors, switches, etc low voltage hooked up to it...

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Guest lightnix

Have you tried looking on E-bay ? There's all sorts of kit pops up on there (although some of it may be dodgy / nicked).

 

Once you've factored in the cost of your time building, testing and debugging, it may well work out cheaper to buy something.

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