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Ipix satellites vs PixelLine Micro


ludmac

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I have used the Ipix Satellites on many occasions and always been impressed, the holographic diffusers you can get for them allow them to be more wash than spot too, easy to address and use. if you get power con and data 1m lengths heat shrunk together or of a length you think you will use a lot, makes them very quick to dasiy chain.

 

can not comment on the Pixelline Micros sorry

 

Mark

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  • 2 weeks later...

Really, its a lot of cash to spend, get a demo preferably side by side.

 

Things to try, see how well they dim at low levels, some LED stuff can look very steppy especially at low levels.

 

Put it on all channels full for a solid hour , preferably indoors in the warm, do you notice light output droop or subtle colour shift?

 

What suits you in terms of rigging and connector hardware, as suggested ChromaQ stuff might be worth looking at.

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It seems clear not many people have used either of these products. I, like previous poster, only have experience of the I-Pix and thought they were excellent.

 

Is it possible to arrange a demo of both products from your local dealer in your country? This would definitely be the best option but I can see this might be difficult, not only your location but also that the I-Pix might not actually have distribution. As I understand they deal direct?

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Heres some comparison information for your information

 

satellites use 6 red luxeon I = 6 watts

6 green luxeon III =18 watts

6 blue luxeon III = 18 watts

 

total 42 watts

 

pixelline micro washes use 6 red luxeon I = 6 watts

 

5 green luxeon III = 15 watts

5 blue luxeon III = 15 watts

 

total 36 watts

 

if you add amber in this brings the comparison to 42 watts total. Amber boosts the red green side of the three main primaries so in practice you will get more punch from the satellite. With more power on the green and blue end, the colour gamut is slightly better.

 

There are more sats in hire use than pixelline micros because they have been out for longer.

 

I hope this helps and I hope I dont spark an amber argument! The way I see is with RGB receptors I dont have an amber receptor in my eyes, nor do cameras. So why bother other than adding a little warmth to the beam when you can do that by mixing with the three primary colours. After all amber comes from mixing red and amber. :)

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I hope this helps and I hope I dont spark an amber argument! The way I see is with RGB receptors I dont have an amber receptor in my eyes, nor do cameras. So why bother other than adding a little warmth to the beam when you can do that by mixing with the three primary colours. After all amber comes from mixing red and amber. :)
You don't have Red or Green receptors either - (assuming normal colour vision) you've got two sets of Red/Green receptors, one set is shifted towards Red relative to the other.

 

CIE diagrams can help to visualise the difference.

Your colour mixing sources each have a colour along the edge of the diagram.

 

You then 'connect the dots' to create a triangle (RGB) or quadrilateral (RGBA).

 

The fixture can make the colours inside this shape, and can't make any colours outside it.

 

(Edit - added link)

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I have used both products recently and am still not happy with the way the color mixing works on either of them or for that matter the SGM LED Products. I find it hard to get a good white which is balanced across many fixtures especially on camera.

 

I have turned to the Color Kinetics Color Blast CB12..

 

http://www.colorkinetics.com/ls/rgb/colorblast12/

 

It has a great default white, and you can easily mix colors such as lavenders & Pinks ive even got a great CTO (3500K) out of them.

 

They arn't widely used in the UK but are the LED of choice for all major acts coming from the US.

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How do you find yellow? That's the one colour I really struggle with on all (except maybe the chromapanels thanks to diffusion)

 

So why bother other than adding a little warmth to the beam when you can do that by mixing with the three primary colours. After all amber comes from mixing red and amber.

 

Surely you get amber by mixing red & green?!

 

Anyhoo, the theory is far from the reality. Spend much time trying to get warm colours on LED and the amber looks most attractive :)

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The CB12's do yellow really well.. I've just tried it.. a great L101 and even better L104 Deep amber..

 

Its true that LED choice is a more limited in the States but to be honest ive never had a problem getting hold of any of the LED products that I Have Spec'd.. and after using the Color Blasts I found it very hard when I had to do a show with some iPix Satellites.. I just couldn't get the colors that I was looking for..

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