niclights

If it has no brand and you have no manual then it could be anything. There will be huge number of fixtures that look the same and have the same DMX channel mapping which could all have different menu systems and options. Realistically probably all you can do is play around with the menus and see if you can find anything.

It looks like it is Seven Stars/ Big Dipper/ Betopper which are all the same company and use the same product codes: https://betopperdj.com/pages/company There is a manual here: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/2826839/Betopper-Lpc007.html Unfortunately it doesn't look like there are any options in the menu to calibrate the colours. No harm in trying to contact them but I suspect it doesn't have this feature and it will just be a matter of adjusting it in the controller. https://www.bigdipper-laser.com/contact.html

If your console has an option you could try enabling extra stop bit. In my experience this has solved flicker issues on certain fixtures. Although if it really is occuring with sound then that suggests either sound to light or something physical.

I would suggest phoning or raising a Help Desk ticket.

I don't recall seeing any in that particular combination yet (or RGBWL). I'm not sure if you are asking about just this combination but additive cyan is certainly not unheard of, typically with red, green, blue, amber and lime.

An added benefit of the Robe system (and I imagine the PRG too) is you can control, or take control of, various parameters from the console as required. So, for example, if you have a relatively inexperienced operator you could lock out the dimmer except for when it was required. You could also control the colour so they only have to worry about position. They also have the ability to restrict the pan and tilt range which, as well as ensuring it can't be pointed anywhere silly, can be used to assist, for example if you are mostly just panning and don't need much or any tilt. They also have adjustable smoothing on the movement.

You shouldn't need to do anything particularly special. It is just a self-extracting archive. Is the problem getting it onto the stick or that it isn't being recognised in the console? On the stick you should have an .exe file in the root directory, around 770MB (at the time of writing and assuming it's the one for the latest version). Are you using a Windows PC or something else?

Have you considered the Robe RoboSpot system? These are designed to operate and feel like a normal followspot and are very impressive. Personally I would be happy to use this in place of a traditional spot. Can be used with various Robe fixtures, either with integrated camera or by adding one: https://www.robe.cz/robospot

Just to expand on Tim's comment the DMX boards are designed such that these are easy to swap. There may even be spare chips although I might be making that up...

IIRC I believe you can patch/select to the upper bank by holding the shift (Avo) key.

I've looked at it a number of times but I'm struggling to match the description and symptoms with the video. In the video I see the pan of a moving head changing between two values repeatedly and a display of a controller which changing between showing two values repeatedly (7/8). I'm not familiar with the controller - I would guess these are step numbers of a chase or actual DMX values of a channel. But, in any case, assuming the values relate to the output where 7 = pan position 1 and 8 = pan position 2 then it seems that the fixture is doing what the controller is telling it to. I would not expect a fixture to be able to affect a controller in any way (other than being damaged by something going horribly wrong electrically). Similarly, I would not expect 'flicker' to present on a fixture pan like this. In my experience when you do have flicker on DMX it is too fast for things like pan (on moving heads). LED's or moving mirrors, yes - in which case it tends to be mostly at the correct value with an occasional very fast flick to a zero value. Not a regular change between two values. So it seems, from the video, to be a controller issue. But you say you have tried different controllers...

I'm not sure if it is possible to automatically lamp on. According to the manual you can set dips 8 and 10 on (all others off) to lamp on but this is under the 'Stand-Alone Operation' section. In 'Controller Operation' it says a lamp on command from the controller is required (channel 1 - shutter @ 236-252).

It looks like the tags went a bit wrong there. If you separate out the links it should work: https://ibb.co/HDqTw73 https://I.ibb.co/ynqFv07/Smart-Scan-SSC-2.jpg

As I mentioned earlier the DMX in/out will almost certainly just be a direct link. This tends to be deliberate as it is both simple and, perhaps most importantly will pass through without power. A fixtures polarity would not change the polarity downstream. It is only relevant to whether a particular fixture will respond or not. And a faulty unit would not impact whether DMX continued from the in to the out (although certainly could cause issues downstream). I find it hard to believe they are all faulty (and only with the DMX). I suppose it's possible high voltage down the line could have blown all the input IC's... maybe. As an aside it is common for the IP rated fixtures to be heavier.

It is the wrong assumption. The in and out are almost certainly just paralleled and there won't be anything in the fixture that affects it. Certainly if you reversed the polarity it would mean the other fixtures wouldn't work as it would be the wrong polarity for them (you would need to reverse it again or change the position in the chain/use a different line etc.) All that said if your console has a polarity switch on the DMX output and it doesn't help then all I can think of is that the DMX address isn't set correctly. Often you have to commit the setting somehow - usually by pressing an enter button or similar (possibly holding). There is usually then some sort of confirmation. One way to prove this might be to set the address to something like A002. Then disconnect/reconnect the power and see if it is still on A002.

'D' is by no means a standard or something to expect. As Rob points out the prefix is sometimes used to indicate mode instead of a separate mode setting (if indeed there is more than one mode). The DMX pass through doesn't tell you much other than that there is a cable connected with DMX. Often fixtures have a way of indicating if they are actually receiving DMX. Sometimes a dot in the corner of the LCD display or a separate LED. If it doesn't have this and/or you are sure it isn't responding to DMX (for example with it set to A001 and dimmers patched/raised) then polarity sounds likely as Michael already mentioned. This was my immediate instinct based on the information.

The lamp on (and lamp off and reset) function in the Martin MAC 2000 Wash fixtures is in the shutter control (channel offset 1) where lamp on is 228-237 (90-93%). According to the manual there is no specific sequence/timing etc. for lamp on so theoretically if you wheel shutter to that value it should strike the lamp but the usual way would be to use the fixture macros included in the personality. You can find these by selecting the fixture(s) then pressing the ML Menu button then the [Macro] softkey (or something very similar - it's been a long time!) then select [Lamp On]. In this fixture this will currently set the shutter control to the lamp on range, CMY to full then wait a few seconds before returning shutter to the open range and CMY to 0. The CMY and delay parts might not be necessary for lamp on but are a requirement for lamp off and reset (in addition to enabling the associated settings in the fixture menu).

Or dirt on the encoder?

The post on the forum was only a few hours before the one here so there's not been much time yet for anyone to reply. I would suggest either raising a Help Desk ticket or emailing support <at> avolites <dot> com. I will also forward this to the support department so they are aware.

My gut feeling was polarity also but the symptoms suggest otherwise. Just to clarify: 1. Are the other four consoles a different make/model? 2. Do the other fixtures work ok on the other consoles? 3. Are the same cables being used when moving between consoles? Regarding points 2 and 3 am I correct in saying the following, preferably using dimmers/individual channel control in all consoles to eliminate any patching/profile issues? a) problem console -> cable 1 -> problem fixture -> cable 2 -> good fixture = problem fixture not responding, good fixture responding b) problem console -> cable 1 -> good fixture -> cable 2 -> problem fixture = problem fixture not responding, good fixture responding c) good console -> cable 1 -> problem fixture -> cable 2 -> good fixture = both fixtures responding (where 'problem fixture', 'good fixture', 'cable 1' and 'cable 2' are the same in each)

For rigging perhaps consider tank trap + tube? Probably depends largely on whether you can transport the length of tube and if it's ok to have that as a fixed length. For fixtures I would be tempted by some sort of LED batten with a suitable beam angle mounted vertically on the tube. It will splash the opposite side of stage but this will be impossible to avoid without height, regardless of fixture. Alternatively you could use the tank trap/pole with a couple (or more) of LED pars with suitable beam angle per side. This will give a bit more flexibility in focussing if that's practical and what you need. This can work ok on the vertical pole - the sources will be at different heights but this can be effective. Of course you could add a cross piece to the top and get the equivalent of a T-bar although personally I would only do that if I needed to outrig (slightly) further downstage than the ground support allows and/or if the focusing from the vertical pole was causing splash too far upstage and need to rig further upstage to avoid. Obviously care should be taken to ensure the rigging is safe.

Even if there were different firmware versions for this (which I feel is probably unlikely considering its age) there must still be a way to turn the lamp on given it starts with the lamp off. Have you tried sending a reset? It's conceivable this might also strike the lamp.

According to the documentation you can import GDTF fixtures. So you could obtain 'assets' that way, including the ability to make your own with via the GDTF builder. However, the documentation says this only imports the xml at the moment which would mean no gobo images or 3D model information.

In case you haven't checked already are you sure you have the correct address? I can see that in Capture 2019 the scene control is on channel offset 18 of the camera in Extended mode (ie. Camera address + 17). In Capture 2020 it is on channel offset 20 of Extended mode or 18 for 'Legacy, Extended' mode.

If you have time I would raise this with Chamsys support. It sounds wrong to me. The latest documentation on the Chauvet website does not have a 12 channel mode and neither does the 'legacy' DMX chart.