Good basic hardware inventory

[norty303]

I'm a lighting guy (and sound) who is in the lower end of the market (read: hobbyist!) who is slowly trying to get some rigging hardware together.

 

I currently own a number of sections of duo-span Global Truss, which were chosen based on their ample ability to hold what I needed them to, over the spans I was likely to be working with (Martin 518's, Robe 250 XT's, Pars, etc generally the lighter scale of intelligents). Initially I have been using them with lifts and the relevant adaptors but I'm beginning to encounter more situations where alternative fixing methods are required (e.g. festival tents where I've been informed of the loadings for the structure). So I'm trying to put together an inventory of useful hardware to cover most eventualities and do it safely.

 

I'm a firm believer in having the right tools for job, whilst not wishing (or affording to) to have every tool in the toolbox!!

 

However, as I've no formal training I'm not sure of what methods are best applied in any given situation (although confident in my ability to put up something that is safe, just maybe not the accepted way).

 

So far I'm looking at:

 

50mm swivel couplers

50mm couplers with eyes

Various lengths of double c-clamps

500kg SWL roundslings and relevant shackles

Endless ratchet straps (thats ones without hooks, rather than 'lots and lots')

 

 

When using roundslings, whats the best method of secondary fixing? Is it simply another roundsling or are there generally accepted ways such as steels? Also, are roundslings more versatile than steels anyway?

 

 

Now I appreciate that there will be responses questioning my eligibility to undertake this work, so I will put it in context.

 

I have been working on and off doing lighting and sound for the last 14 years, both in-house and more recently as a hobby with my own kit. I have a good head for common sense and H&S and am fully PLI'd and PATed (see, a responsible individual!! :D ). I am aware of the weight limits of my kit and appropriate use, as well as understanding that if I'm unable to evaluate something outside of my control I shouldn't use it (see festival tent reference earlier) as a fixing point. A lot of the work I do is either as favours/cost or doing stuff that simply couldn't stand the cost of a rigger (or in my opinion require it, due to the nature/size of the event/equipment used)

 

So that said, I'd appreciate any advice from those of you who've done this before (although perhaps on a bigger scale) :)

 

 

Also, any good way to gen up on this topic without enroling on a full course? I have a full time job to maintain (and full time partner!) so time and money prevent me, despite my longing to do it.

[AndyJones]

If you are simply looking for some rigging knowledge then the best bet is to read this book by the most amazing Chris Higgs:

http://images-eu.amazon.com/images/P/1904031129.02.MZZZZZZZ.jpg

 

Sorry I couldn't find an Amazon link to the other one!

 

HTH

 

AndyJones

[benweblight]

festival tents where I've been informed of the loadings for the structure

 

This recent topic might be of interest:

http://www.blue-room.org.uk/index.php?showtopic=21411

[Pete McCrea]

If I was buying a rigging stock then I'd look to have a good load of shackles (1T Bow's say something like 20) Steels of sensible sizes (again 1T and sizesof around 0.5m 1m 2m 5m and maybe 10m if you feel the need) and black round slings (again 1T and of sensible sizes). It might alos be worht getting coated steels for use on truss.

 

The reason I'd go for 1T? Most of the stuff we do is in venues where we're working with 1T hoists etc, and to save on confusion I'd go 1T all round. If you are working predominantly in smaller venues with lower weight loadings, then 500Kg is probably fine.

 

With regard to secondary fixings..... Comes down to the design and implemetaiton of the system, requirements from the event promoter/management and response to relevant regulations and the risk assesments in place. Some times it's prudent not to include them (working in an Orbit where they maybe required to be dropped quickly due to escalating wind conditions), others I wouln't dream of putting anything up with out them.

 

I'd second Chris Higg's books. A good read covering the essentials, both technically and legally. It also covers the LOLER issues (inspection and use of the kit) that you'll open your self up to once you own and use rigging hardware. One reason we pay rigging co's to do any rigging we need....

[Seano]

... good load of shackles (1T Bow's say something like 20) ... black round slings (again 1T and of sensible sizes).

 

2T roundslings are pretty much the industry standard these days - certainly the vast majority of black roundslings sold for theatrical use are rated at 2T. I very rarely see 1T Spansets these days (they're normally purple).

 

1 tonne shackles are too small to be used with 1t rigging (steels or slings). To make a 3-way connection (eg: for making a basket for a rigging point, or for slinging a truss) with 1t rigging (be it slings or steels), you need 3 1/4 tonne shackles. You can use 2t shackles for 2-way connections (eg: joining 2 steels end to end or for the secondary shackle of a 1t basket) - but they're very much less useful than 3 1/4 tonne ones. There are some very nasty, cheap shackles on the market - beware of false economy. Crosby is the way to go, imo. (But then its not my money.)

 

Oh, and I'll second (third) the book recommendation. You (the op) should be buying the Chris Higgs book, and if you have money to spend maybe think about the Harry Donovan book too.

 

Sean

x

[Ike]

Are 3 1/4t anchor shackles any use for 3-way connections on 2t rigging and steels or would I need to look at 4 3/4? Would there be any advantages in going larger?

 

Sorry for the thread necromancy,

 

Ike

[Seano]

Are 3 1/4t anchor shackles any use for 3-way connections on 2t rigging and steels or would I need to look at 4 3/4? Would there be any advantages in going larger?

 

3 1/4t shackles are fine with 2t Spansets.

 

For the vast majority of 2t steels you'll need 4 3/4t shackles for 3-way connections. Baskets generally work best with a 4 3/4t primary shackle and a 3 1/4t secondary (drop) shackle.

 

There are some 2t steels out there with unusually slim thimbles which are fine with 3 1/4t shackles (I've only seen these supplied by 'Over the Top' Rigging Ltd). Many (most) 2t motor hooks won't fit on the pin of a 3 1/4t shackle though, so even with these steels you generally need a 4 3/4t shackle for a basket or bridle apex intended to take a motor hook directly (ie: without a stinger).

 

There's no advantage to going bigger than 4 3/4t, and if you do you may find with some steels that the shackle body won't fit through the eye.

 

Oh, and something to be aware of: with some long-link adjusting chains (but not genuine CM STAC) the pin of a 4 3/4t shackle wont fit nicely through a link, meaning you may need an additional 3 1/4t shackle to make the connection between basket and chain.

 

hth

Sean

x

 

Edit to chuck in a picture: 2t steel basket with 4.75t primary shackle and 3.25t secondary:

 

http://www.deepsoup.f2s.com/BR/2tBasket.jpg

[Ike]

Great stuff thanks!

[MartinGreen]

with some long-link adjusting chains

 

Long link chains should NEVER be used for any form of dynamic lifting. Short link clutch chains are the only type you should be using. Its a tiresome subject I know but its coming our way whether we like it or not.

 

Look at the EU standard EN818-2 and it will show you that only short link lifting chain with the correct fittings can be used.

 

Heres a link to a previous topic about STAC and Deck chains etc.

 

Stac chain conversations of yore.

 

I have probably lit another blue touch paper but these are the facts, we can no longer avoid them just because a product is "great".

[Ike]

I was actually going to ask something on the very subject but decided better of it for fear of opening an (old) can of worms.

 

I currently have a fair bit of long link chain (used for suspension only, honest gov!), if I was going to replace it with clutch chains what exactly should I be looking for? Any good products or terrible ones or are they pretty much equal? What are the pros and cons compared to STAC (apart from making the bureaucrats happy)?

[Simon Lewis]

... if I was going to replace it with clutch chains what exactly should I be looking for?

 

I was going to buy some STAC, but my supplier has stopped selling it - for the reasons mentioned above. I had the "Crosby ELIMINATOR" recommended instead.

 

Simon

[johnhuson]

We have Crosby Eliminators in stock, very useful product to have. We have type ESOL in the link above if anyones interested.

[MartinGreen]

Chain is my thing for my sins so if anyone is interested (probably not!!!) PM me rather than dragging this thread down a direct sales route.

[Seano]

Look at the EU standard EN818-2 and it will show you that only short link lifting chain with the correct fittings can be used.

 

That is the standard for short link chain, it doesn't show that only short link chain can be used any more than the EN standard for waterproof footwear shows we should all be wearing wellies.

This standard also applies to chain slings, noone has ever argued that long-link chains should be used as slings.

 

The thing that does arguably say only short link chain may be used is the EU Machinery Directive (the full, snappy title is: "DIRECTIVE 2006/42/EC OF THE EUROPEAN PARLIAMENT AND OF THE COUNCIL of 17 May 2006 on machinery, and amending Directive 95/16/EC (recast)". The full text is available online here. (1.4Mb pdf)

 

Section 4.1.2.5 deals with "lifting accessories and their components", and subsection (b) says: "where chains with welded links are used, they must be of the short-link type" (That is also written with chain slings in mind.)

 

Which looks pretty clear cut, but then if you look back to the definition of "lifting accessory" in article 2(d) it says:

" ‘lifting accessory’ means a component or equipment not attached to the lifting machinery, allowing the load to be held, which is placed between the machinery and the load or on the load itself " (My italics).

 

A STAC chain used for bridle adjustment is not used between the lifting machine (eg: a CM Lodestar) and the load (eg: a truss), and so arguably is not a 'lifting accessory' as far as the machinery directive is concerned. So does the requirement for short-link chain in lifting accessories apply to bridle adjusting chain? Dunno. The only thing that is clear is that its not clear.

 

I was actually going to ask something on the very subject but decided better of it for fear of opening an (old) can of worms.

Yep, I opened the can. I did hesitate, but decided it was worth a mention. Bad decision, sorry about that.

 

If I was going to replace it with clutch chains what exactly should I be looking for? Any good products or terrible ones or are they pretty much equal? What are the pros and cons compared to STAC (apart from making the bureaucrats happy)?

 

The relative merits of different clutch chains might be a good thread in its own right (if not a long one). If you start the thread I promise I wont mention the "S" word. ;) (Actually, I probably wouldn't have much to contribute, I don't use a lot of clutch chains.)

 

Ok. If you're looking to replace STAC with clutch chains, a couple of things spring to mind:

 

STAC is uniformly adjustable right down to zero. Clutch chains can be more finely adjusted, but have a minimum as well as a maximum length.

For example if you want to make a 5'6" leg, and your clutch chains can only be adjusted down to 9" you'll either need the chain to be at least 5'6" long, or you need a shorter steel, a 2'6" steel and the clutch chain adjusted to 3' perhaps.

 

Clutch chains can be fiddly to adjust, especially if you're working on a beam. You might find a chain grab (grab hook rather than a clutch) handy to free your hands.

 

Obviously you can't do this:http://www.riggingservices.co.uk/salesdesk/images/products/stacchain.jpg with a clutch chain.

If you work in an environment where you're building small bridles and the apex height is crucial (for example rigging from beams above theatre grids) again you're likely to need more shorter steels or use 2 separate chains. (Or 2 legged chains I suppose, but it'd probably be silly to buy them specially.)

 

Er...

Thats it for now.

 

Sean

x

[MartinGreen]

Sean.

 

http://www.riggingsupplies.co.uk/images/chain.gif

 

Turn this locking chain (above) through 180 degrees and it does exactly what your STAC chain does in Seans picture, it locks, its adjustable and you can vary the length of legs (so long as you keep your inclusive angle below 45 degrees per leg). Yes its a specific purchase but people are turning to this sort of thing because its guaranteed to meet all Directives without any Grey areas. When it comes to H & S does anyone want to be trapped in a Grey area when its easy enough to be clear cut and above board?

 

My argument with it is that there is a clear certified product that while not the same, will do the job without any worry over "does it, doesn't it" meet standards.