Mr Steve Posted June 21, 2007 Share Posted June 21, 2007 Hi, I have one of those Showtec / Stairville LED Par 56s which is dead. The unit makes a small hum when powered up like my working ones, but this one does not light up under DMX or auto. I want to get inside to have a look around. There are 3 screws on the outside of the unit, and I can see that these are done up with a nut on the inside of the unit (there is a small gap between the shell and the board holding the LEDs). You can't get a spanner / pliers in this gap so I was wondering if there is a way of getting the LED board off to get into the unit? Anyone with any experience with these units? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
niclights Posted June 21, 2007 Share Posted June 21, 2007 Unscrew the three in the LED board and pull clear. There is slack on the cable which is easily disconnected from the board. You then have access to the nuts holding the transformer/control board from the sides. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Steve Posted June 21, 2007 Author Share Posted June 21, 2007 There's no screws in the LED board.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulears Posted June 21, 2007 Share Posted June 21, 2007 This won't help but there are on mine. I also have some mk11's with a perspex cover - these have hex bar spacers - but access has to come from the led panel. There isn't any other way in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce Posted June 21, 2007 Share Posted June 21, 2007 Hi Steve, I've been there before - a stairville unit with exactly the same symptoms. To open it up, you need a small thin spanner, which you push down between the LED panel and the casing to stop that nut spinning. You may have to "squeeze" the can a little to open up the gap. It's a nyloc nut. Once the 3 bolts are out, the 2 pcbs (LEDs and the control one behind it) come out. Reassembly is just as tricky - I found the easiest way to do it was to line up all the boltholes, then pad the spanner jaws with a little gaff tape, so that the nut didn't fall out of the jaws, then carefully slide the spanner+nut thru the gap. Inside you'll find 4 inline fuses - one on the mains and 3 between the control PCB and LED pcb. Having said that, the fuses were OK on mine, all the connections seem fine, and the output from the transformer was OK. I couldn't be bothered investigating further, and the unit is now boxed up ready to return to Thomann.... Let me know if you find the fault on yours! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Steve Posted June 21, 2007 Author Share Posted June 21, 2007 To open it up, you need a small thin spanner, which you push down between the LED panel and the casing to stop that nut spinning. ArseIt's a nyloc nut. More arse. I'll have a look soon and let you know how I get on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce Posted June 21, 2007 Share Posted June 21, 2007 If I remember correctly, it's a 7mm spanner you need. The one I used was the second-smallest one in one of those "dozen cheap spanners, specially manufactured from monkey metal" that you can buy cheaply in markets and pound shops. http://www.goods-4-u.co.uk/acatalog/wr279.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Steve Posted June 21, 2007 Author Share Posted June 21, 2007 Thanks for all the help. I was a bit eager and got the thing apart improvising with some scissors to hold the nyloc (!). After metering, one of the fuses had blown on the LED board which I've replaced. It works now. Off to invest in some cheap diddy spanners to get it back together tomorrow. Another Blue-Room triumph. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekij Posted June 21, 2007 Share Posted June 21, 2007 Is it worth considering Epoxy-ing the nut to the frame so you don't need a spanner to hold it should you ever need to take it apart again? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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