Mr Steve

Thanks v. much!

Hello, I have an army of ancient VL2000 fixtures, some of which are missing the squares of foam that sit in the vents of the unit. What sort of product/foam am I looking for to replace these. I'm looking for something I can cut to size.

'lo I've been working with a rapidly expanding choir who are starting to not be able to hear each other on stage. The choir perform against a live band and are usually on raked staging, perhaps 9 deep by 20 voices wide. They have previously had a row of wedges along the front with key band members in, but are starting to comment that they can't hear vocal parts from around the choir itself. The choir are reinforced by condenser mics. What is the best approach in this scenario? Obviously wedges will be no use to those further back. Is it simply to provide some side fill and pay careful attention to mic and speaker placement?

Hi Jamie - mic missing from PCB.

Wanted 1x working Martin Destroyer PCB, for not stupid money. Any around?

We have a pair of 26 degree City Theatrical AutoYoke fixtures available. These have DMX iris, DMX focus and full balancing kit on the back should you wish to fit a scroller. 15A lamp power, 16A electronics. If these are of use to anyone we are happy to negotiate a price. We have two flight cases available for them. We would also consider a swap for standard 750w Source 4 units with fixed or zoom tubes We have a 3rd unit available, which is just the AutoYoke, iris and scroller, without the lantern as we have converted this back to be a standard profile. Price / swapsies negotiable. If there is no interest we will convert the profiles to fixed units and dump the AutoYoke parts!

Hi all, I have a few DB4 Colorblocks, V1 with separate RGB LEDs in each cell with faults that I'd like to have a go at repairing, rather than dumping. Some have dim blue in a couple of cells, some are missing blue and green totally in 2/4 cells. Has anyone got any pointers of what to check when fault finding these at PCB level? I have some spare PCBs to cannibalise.

Thanks guys. It turns out that as well as trying to add the two custom fixtures in the 'Update Fixture Library' section, I was also being blind. The manufacturers are QTX and Viking, so when you add these they appear under Q and V, further up the console LCDs. And I didn't RTFM. The main library is on v37 so I'll update that, check the fixture list over, and return it to it's school. Cheers.

File attached. Should contain two manufacturers and one fixture per manuf. cheers! Barn.ift

Hello all, I've been given the task of adding some non library fixtures to an old Z88 Jester TLXtra console. I've downloaded the Zero 88 Fixture tools and created a .ift file containing my two custom fixtures. On the console, if I go in to <Update Library> the console will see the file, but then fails at 97% upload saying "wrong file type". What am I doing wrong?

Thanks all. I'll meter the voltage. The lamps fitted are all believed to be 'legit' branded lamps, I'd hope, purchased from a variety of resellers at different times. Lamp bases are in good condition as I've checked when doing the replacing. Dimmer wise, they are Act 6 Digitals, which I don't believe had a top-set option. Their desk is a Strand 100 series, which only has a top-set by putting tape on the master!

Hi all, I have some old 650w fresnels and 575w S4 Jrs in a school that I look after. We're seeing that the lamps in the units are dying very prematurely - ie within a couple of months. The lamps have been fitted without touching the glass. They're connected to a pair of Act 6 Digital dimmers, used for maybe 2-3 hours 5 days a week, if that. Lamps are GE Showbiz T26/T27 or Philips HPL. Is there something supply related that may be causing the lamps to fail, particularly as this seems widespread across the rig of 20 lanterns?

Incase it helps others, the fault was with the small charging PCB, not the main control PCB. Replacing this solved the problem.

Before you replace, try using some switch cleaner on the dip switches and flick them back and forth a few times. I've had some dodgy Martin Atomics where once sprayed with switch cleaner are 100% fine. Stephen

Found online today .... The Icon Awareness Manual.pdf

Hello, I have an LEDJ Rapid QB1 IP battery uplighter which is behaving oddly. If you turn the unit off using the button on the base, the LEDs will go out as expected, however if you touch the control panel the control screen is still on and controllable. On my other units turning the power off using the button will turn the control panel off. This is a bit of a pain as if you charge the unit up, 48 hours later it's down at 60% as the screen is still active. Any ideas why this might happen, and more importantly how to sort it?

Hello, I have a CT AutoYoke unit for sale. This is the entire unit *without* the actual Source 4 profile. The base/pan/tilt section is included, the basket that holds the lantern, the AutoFocus motor and parts, and the AutoIris, and screws. There is a full counterweight set present which will allow you to stick a scroller on the front for the full vintage experience. The power connector that connects the S4 to the AutoYoke is also included. Simply fit your own S4 profile (tungsten version; LED is not compatible with this fitting). We don't need the unit any more, and have opted to keep the profile out of it. It was 100% working when derigged two weeks ago. Make me an offer..... Collection from CB1 or CB9 as it's heavy due to the counterweights.

Thanks all - we will investigate.

To be slightly more specific, it's a multi-purpose space, hard walls, hard floors. It's used for spoken word both natural and amplified, as well as live music, dance etc. If you stamp or clap the reverb time is huge - a distinct ping between the side walls - it sounds like a baby sports hall. Playing music from the stage end (which is in addition to the measurements above) you can hear double snare/hi hat and even kick bouncing around. The LF in the room sounds really muddy and flabby as there's loads of cancellation and peaks. We are looking for a suitably qualified bod to visit the site and advise on how we can reduce reflections and deaden the room - not dead dead, but make it less rubbish. We can pay for a consult, and then see what the advice is as to the next steps.

Hi All, I've been asked to look at improving the acoustics in a very square flat box hall space. The room is about 14m x 22m x 6m, very reflective with lots of perpendicular sides. Can anyone recommend an acoustic specialist around the East Anglia area who would be able to assess the space and provide some recommendations on how to deaden the reflections with drape vs acoustic panels etc TIA :)

I went for some of these, as well as a handful of used Hex IP versions. Served the purpose nicely!

Hi All, A space I look after has 6x 500w garden floods on dimmers as house lights. These give a nice warm white light, with the ability to dim as the show begins. We are looking to replace these with some sort of LED equivalent. Can anyone recommend a DMX controllable white, tunaeble white, or RGBW fixture that has a similar output to a 500w halogen flood? :)

As sub £200 inc VAT as possible, really :)

Hi all, I did a search but the topics returned are around 5+ years old. I'm looking to get hold of some battery uplighters for putting bright stripes of colour up 6-8ft walls, for 6-ish hours. What are people using at the budget end of the market for this these days? I don't mind if they charge via DC jack or IEC, not fussed about charging in a flight case. What are you using? Stephen

Hello, I was wondering if anyone had any of the stock gobos for a VL2000 / VL2500 / VL6c laying around that they want rid of. Specifically: Fixed wheel 'wave' and 'leaves' Rotating wheel 'prism', 'pinwheel', 'spiral stones', 'hypnospiral', 'circle of ovals' Thanks all.