floyd99 Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 Hi guys wizard of oz... we want the kansas scenes to be bland and sepia (like the movie), so the transition to oz is more effective when we go lollypop colours. I'm thinking of using L103 Straw for the standard warm wash, to be used throughout the show. At this stage I won't be putting in a cool wash. For the sepia, I was thinking of adding L156 Chocolate in side light for a start, and possibly throw in a backlight wash of Chocolate as well -- using MultiPars. Does anyone have an opinion if this will be sufficient -- I've never used Chocolate before , will it look ok in multipars? cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modge Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 I've used it with regular CP62's, as sidelight, and it was rather dull, but then I didn't use straw front light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 Doing it with just lighting will look rubbish. Really rubbish. Talk to costumes and sets and get them to help by choosing a limited pallette of colours for their designs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
floyd99 Posted July 21, 2006 Author Share Posted July 21, 2006 I've used it with regular CP62's, as sidelight, and it was rather dull, but then I didn't use straw front light. I'll be using Strand SL profiles for the sidelight Doing it with just lighting will look rubbish. Really rubbish. Talk to costumes and sets and get them to help by choosing a limited pallette of colours for their designs. Yep, that'll be taken care of... scenic designer is awesome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liam FitzG Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 Aside: There are some very effective UV reactive paints which will brighten up Munchkin Land and make the difference between the two scenes more evident. Lee make a Brown 746, it comes out well but needs a lot of light behind it. Liam Edit : To compensate for slow typing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
springgrove Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 Doing it with just lighting will look rubbish. Really rubbish. Talk to costumes and sets and get them to help by choosing a limited pallette of colours for their designs. Yep, that'll be taken care of... scenic designer is awesome. I've recently done a Wizard of Oz, and I also thought that costumes and sets were the way to do this. We also saved the main stage for Munchkinland, doing the limited, early Kansas stuff on an apron or floor of the hall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
floyd99 Posted July 21, 2006 Author Share Posted July 21, 2006 thanks for all your input. I think I'll go with the original idea of throwing some chocolate in the side light, as I'll be able to re-use that during the spooky forest scenes in Act 2, and leave the rest of it to scenic. springgrove - how did you do the yellow brick road? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ynot Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 I'm thinking of using L103 Straw for the standard warm wash, to be used throughout the show. For the sepia, I was thinking of adding L156 Chocolate in side light for a start, and possibly throw in a backlight wash of Chocolate as well -- using MultiPars.Personally, I'd say you've got a good starting chance of making this work with what you've described. Yes, as someone's already pointed out, trying to achieve the effect with lighting alone will be fruitless. BUT as with most things, you do need to work together with scenic design to get what you need - and as you've said this is going to be the case then you are well on the way. I've done Sepia looks before with small areas, sometimes as a picture effect on a small group, but no reason why it wouldn't work with a full stage. Multi-pars are a good choice - lots of bang for buck, for a start. I'd think again about SL's for the side lights - this is more of a wash than a point source, so if you have enough, go with choc multi-pars again from the side (medium, poss wide flood lens). Definitely use 3 or 4 as back-wash. The overall effect of using a CT filter or (as you've suggested) a straw from front is also in the right ball park though I'd recommend more top-front if feasible - you don't want to wash out the tones. Srange as it might sound, I've seen a dark purple used as sidelighting as an extra option to pickout some detail from the brown.... Not done it myself, but looked good. Remember - you're trying to encapsulate a 'feeling' not reproduce a sepia photo, so don't be afraid to experimentwith maybe oddball ideas! :) Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
floyd99 Posted July 21, 2006 Author Share Posted July 21, 2006 the theatre standard rig has 48 multipars for a 4 colour wash and I'm looking to compliment that with 24 ColorCommand's.. and considering the bars won't physically have enough space, I'll be removing some of the multipars, so I was thinking of throwing them on the box truss side light towers anyway :) the side light was generally to be used for the forest scenes , hence why I was going to put some profiles on them - and SL's are the smallest, brightest, and easiest to rig profiles I've come across (and it so happens the standard rig for FOH is 24 x SL's already). That doesn't mean I can't put a par or two on each tower as well... and maybe even change the gel during interval to give me a different colour for Oz scenes :) of course, that is providing I've got enough free dimmers! Yet to do the math. there's bound to be more questions... this is the biggest show I've designed and lots of ideas going threw my brain but looking for advice/suggestion, so thanks guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ynot Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 of course, that is providing I've got enough free dimmers! Yet to do the math.That's simple enough - you can get 4 575w multi-pars on a 10A dimmer channel! Double up!! :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
floyd99 Posted July 21, 2006 Author Share Posted July 21, 2006 of course, that is providing I've got enough free dimmers! Yet to do the math.That's simple enough - you can get 4 575w multi-pars on a 10A dimmer channel! Double up!! :) excellent point.. normally I'd have only paired them, as I'm stuck in the Par64 mindset. For one particular purpose I have in mind, there's no reason I couldn't put 4 on one dimmer, as it wouldn't look symmetrical to not have all 4 on at once anyway. Even though I have 144 dimmers, I'm going to be scraping for every free circuit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Threader Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 The last time I lit Wizard of Oz we achieved the effect you are looking for by lighting the Kansas scenes only from FOH, with as little FOH cross as possible, in Steel (117). This gave a cold flat effect. When we were transporteed to Oz, full colour and cross/back lighting was used. The effect was enhanced by having black/white costumes for Kansas and Dorothy had an identical costume, but in Red for the Oz scene that followed. In the film Kansas was in black & white, not sepia. If you are looking for a sepia colour its best to use #135 (deep golden amber). This can be used to good effect for the freezes in 'Half a Sixpence'. Again front light only to acheive that 2D effect that you want. Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
floyd99 Posted July 21, 2006 Author Share Posted July 21, 2006 cheers. Although the movie I've seen and we're basing the show on, kansas was very much in sepia. Maybe it's a remake or something, but it's the MGM version with Judi Garland. Whilst I've got a few people reading this post that have done Oz before - my one major concern at the moment is the yellow brick road. Whilst the scenic design and sets will be huge for this show, the one thing the director doesn't want to do with scenery is the road. For the scenes coming into and going out of the 'meeting' of scarecrow, tinman, lion we'll just use some profiles with a cobblestone gobo on diagonals - the director specifically wants the shafts of light thru haze look. Cool. The scene that does still bother me is the first one in munchkin land - the current thought is a short throw lense profile pointing straight down with a custom made gobo (wide lense so we can get the projection as large as possible), which is just a big but simple spiral (all the stock gobo's are far too ellaborate, it needs to be a solid thick spiral, maybe two and a half rotations or so). I'll need to source at least a 1K lamp for this though, as even though for that "follow the yellow brick road" part we can dull the rest of the rig slightly, it needs to be pretty bright. If anyone has better suggestions, I'm open! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GridGirl Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 The scene that does still bother me is the first one in munchkin land - the current thought is a short throw lense profile pointing straight down with a custom made gobo (wide lense so we can get the projection as large as possible), which is just a big but simple spiral (all the stock gobo's are far too ellaborate, it needs to be a solid thick spiral, maybe two and a half rotations or so). I'll need to source at least a 1K lamp for this though, as even though for that "follow the yellow brick road" part we can dull the rest of the rig slightly, it needs to be pretty bright. If anyone has better suggestions, I'm open! If you get yourself a 90 degree Selecon Pacific, you can make and print your own gobo onto acetate - that way you get exactly what you want, for not very much money :) and it's in colour as well. On the sepia thing, we did Oz last year and had the sets all in browns, blacks and greys, and costumes likewise; it was lit with 156 and looked pretty cool... http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e26/kiwitechgirl/Wiz_jpg.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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