Yorkie

The best known brand name of the expandable braided sleeving is 'pliosil'

Probably easiest to assume that extending radio aerials down the multi is a non-starter. The rest of your conundrum is typically (cost effectively!) achieved by taping a mains cable to an XLR loom, although hybrid cables with mains and one or occasionally two XLR lines are available by the metre or pre-assembled. I say 'XLR' - Cable designed for AES (digital audio) is also suitable for DMX and analogue audio. Cable designed for DMX is also suitable for analogue audio. Cable designed for analogue audio is technically unsuitable for DMX, although those of us doing small scale, simple or amateur productions have probably used it anyway for years and generally not had any trouble. https://www.vdctrading.com/shop/Van+Damme+Cable/Hybrid+Cables https://www.thomann.de/gb/the_sssnake_dms_222_50_cat_multicore.htm

the JTS GM-5218 is a similar design but a bit cheaper and shorter, it is supercardioid

When was your micrometer last calibrated? 🤣

Not sure why I didn't see this thread before, but a definite yes. (I've tried to call 'PAT' 'appliance testing' for several years, even before the 5th CoP came out) For me a mechanical timer would include a visual (including does it rattle - has anything broken inside), followed by earth continuity, polarity and basic functionality. A full test of functionality - determining whether it actually takes about 24 hours to rotate is generally outside the scope of the testing I undertake 🤣 I think I have previously failed an old one with removable tappets as they were all missing and it was therefore not functional as a timer

Whilst there are brand specialists and service centres, I suspect there will be someone within an hour's drive of most of the UK who has the relevant diagrams and is used to repairing amplifiers of different makes

If you put your location in your profile, you may get more relevant recommendations

I'll probably try a couple on a spare 20 year old Anytronics wallpack

Has anyone used these 'dimmable' LED floods? https://www.lyco.co.uk/pro-50w-dimmable-warm-white-led-floodlight-black.html (I'm looking for a slightly different application- medium term fix for a church currently lit (internally!) by 2000k 70W SON lamps)

Just found these, no idea what they're like https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/fasteners/wing-screw/m10x70-wing-screw-round-cast-iron-bzp/p/ZT1391181X

For a cheap lectern mic, a JTS GM-5212 or it's tbone cousin are reasonable. Come without clip though. Or used MX412 or MX418 if you can find them

The last four are in Ch70

Bizarrely that model number rings a bell... just found documents from thirteen years ago, with a paper I wrote for a church: Receiver: TOA WT-4810 D02 - Back panel 13-18V DC 250mA, Manual 12V DC 130mA, Polarity and size not stated Beltpack Transmitter: TOA WM-4310 D02 Frequencies: 0 - 854.900 1 - 855.275 2 - 855.900 3 - 856.175 4 - 856.575 5 - 857.625 6 - 857.950 7 - 858.200 8 - 858.650 9 - 860.400 A - 860.900 B - 861.550 C - 863.375 D - 863.925 E - 864.375 F - 864.725

They are invariably damp places 😉

I bought some 12V Sylvania LED MR11's intended for domestic use (AC as far as I could tell) and they worked just fine in a motorhome (from the 12V battery)

It's not possible for anyone to simultaneously be: non-technical responsible for this system compliant with section 6.1 of BS7909:2011 (Short answer; I'd concur with the suggestion of 5-6 screens per circuit. Electrically compliant panels would generally be good for 16 or 20A, even if these aren't compliant, for the sake of standardisation I'd suggest 16A single phase circuits each with 30mA RCBOs, and either a 16A Cee or a True1. If screens are 32/32/12 panels then particular emphasis needs to be put on balancing across phases rather than having a screen per phase. But I'm sure you knew that)

Cheap way of improving your existing system, albeit not padded: https://www.wilko.com/wilko-pvc-pencil-case/p/0261328

Looking to run AES/EBU over ~40m in an install where we're already pulling in Cat5e and Cat6 UTP. Should we look to put in STP instead?

That's not uncommon on cheap XLR3 cables but it's bad practice to connect the shell to ground as well as pin 1. Someone who knows the technical reason why can remind me...

I understand there may be all kinds of A&H supply issues at present... Does anyone have or know of any DT168 in stock for sale or a few months hire? Or suggestions of alternative Dante stageboxes to provide the same functionality with an Avantis? Thanks

I'm told that one of the UK divisions of Solotech may have several QL1's in their sales stock. I'm not hugely familiar with different manufacturers' digital desks but have found the A&H SQ5 great to use

WhiteLight bought by d&b https://www.whitelight.ltd.uk/white-light-becomes-part-of-db-group/

Thanks, that is exactly the product. If it was reasonably priced and available with a UK bezel I'd go for it. Shame the new ones on eBay for £13 delivered are only mono output

I'm working on a church hall refurbishment project; there will be an X32 Rack hidden away in a storeroom, with a couple of analogue multicores run in the walls to flush stageboxes for balanced inputs and outputs. The only other input needed is for laptops/phones/DVD player etc, which would need balancing to run about 20m to the X32. I think the ideal solution would be a wallplate (ideally fitting a 1 or 2 gang flush electrical box) with a pair of phonos and/or a minijack socket, then stereo balancing transformers on the back of it. I assumed something like that would be an off the shelf product from CPC or Canford but can't find anything. Anyone know of a suitable product, or have recommendations for transformers if we have to assemble our own? Thanks in advance

If it helps, I think these are the least blue (non-black) 16A connectors I've seen. Might be slightly grey though Gewiss GW62004h