skinda0

Thanks for the detailed research Richard! I must have overlooked the non-rechargable part of the lithium one. I had another go with the rechargeables I bought and they just don't last. The freeport mics just start pulsing on and off after a little while. I bought some alkalines for now but may have to get a few of the vapex ones. They look like the best of the bunch.

What type of cable are you using? RG58 has a loss of 14.1dB over 30M at 863MHz. Handy calc It may be your inline amps are only driving at +10dB giving you -4db at the receivers which may be why you are getting dropouts. I'd move the rack closer to the stage and use a XLR snake to bring the mic channels back to the rear of the hall, then you don't have to worry about coax loss.

Cinemattag does some digital festoon from Glasson which may be worth a look? Linky I have purchased regular festoon from them before but not used the digital stuff.

I had a look at CPC and the GP lithium batteries (BT05447) look pretty good voltage over time wise but as big clive says - may introduce switching noise. The datasheet has some good graphs on the discharge times and the lithiums are much better than the ReCyko ones you mentioned (BT06291). I was at an event in the summer and there was a significant buzz on their radiomic [Trantec S1 HH] I did try out a pair I got from Amazon, and found exactly that. After a little while static noise on the mic, AF peak LED flashing away. So may have to find another use for them now! Might give the lithium a go, and get a pack of akaline while I'm placing an order as backup!

I have a few EV RE-2 mics, handheld and beltpacks and Sennheiser Freeport also handheld and beltpack that use 9Vs. The Sennheiser G3s have been ok with rechargable AAs.

+1 for the desktop style Brother P-Touch I had a Brother P-Touch H100 which was fine for quick single line labels but quickly replaced it with a P700 which was so much easier and quicker to draw up labels. It needs to be connected to a laptop or PC but even that is easier than typing in characters on a non qwerty keyboard then counting along lines of text to make sure it is centeralised! The P700 also supports tape up to 24mm wide which I use for barcode labels. I have only used the cheap cartridges from the big river.

Hi all, I decided to look at getting some rechargable 9V batteries for wireless mics and beltpacks as I thought there must be a better alternative to just buying and then throwing away the old batteries once they are dead. I have done a bit of research and found some of the lithium and Ni-MH 9V batteries. Has anyone used these in their wireless packs with success as I have read the voltage is lower (1.2 x 6 = 7.2V) on these batteries due to them having the same number of cells as regular 9V. EBL Lithium EBL Hi-MH I have also seen some with a micro-USB on them for recharging which seem interesting.

Our lead singer has a Shure 55 and has one of these quick release adapters, but it is a bit tricky to get the XLR in with this screwed in as it is quite large in diameter. We had to put a fine-coarse and then a coarse-fine adapter back to back to extend it as bruce mentioned. One other option may be a right angle XLR if the stand is getting in the way?

I'm sure there is a company trying to flog them! It's not the gold, its the carbon you need! £525 for a pair of 0.5M RCAs? Back to the question - I'd add a label so they aren't confused for a balanced lead though.

Using it as signal would add to your capacitance. But also give you a core redundancy, although 90% of the leads I have repaired have failed at the connector! Would it improve noise rejection like starquad cable does for balanced sources?

I was looking at getting a few small monitors for live sound. I did manage to find a brochure for their product range: https://media.steinigke.de/documents_t/main-catalog-2019-St-E-28_00122905.pdf It looks like their PAS range is one of the higher spec models although the ones I found are an older model. Have you used their kit previously?

I recently saw some omnitronic speakers for sale on a well known aution site. They look like fairly well made cabinets with a decent weight to them. I tried to look up some specs for them (PAS-21011) but it seems Omnitronic have been taken over by steinigke.de. I was wondering if anyone had had experience with this brand? Some of their stuff looks pretty decent but others look like the cheap piezo tweeter boxes so I am a bit unsure as what to expect!

I bought a Brother PT-P700 off of ebay for £30/40 I think. It has been able to print all of the labels I have needed! I use 24mm wide tape for asset labels with barcode and logo. Software is quite good as you can set it up to print a sequential run of numbers, then when you need more labels it will start from the last printed again. The only problem I have found with the brother tape is that they don't stick to some LEDJ 7Q5s I have as they have textured paint. The strong adhesive tape may work better. Everything else has stuck fine.

Have you seen the Elliott Sound Proudcts Website? He has a few different designs on there for mic preamps: https://sound-au.com/project66.htm This one if for the design of a mixer input but may be of use for a few ideas: https://sound-au.com/project30a.htm

I have used Mega Electonics Quick-Mark Digital film before with very good results (picture below), but I have just found out that it is now discontinued! One other method was laser engravable laminate, but only really useful if you have access to a laser cutter! I have used Brother label tape in the above strips and found you dont need to take the adhesive backer off if you are carefull.

An even better way is to buy a small amplifier module from eBay and use that to drive the speaker. Note however that the amount of current you draw from the PSU goes up a lot as you drive more power into the speaker. It is probably better to make a desktop unit with its own local power supply. That is exactly what I did. I used a beltppack PCB and didn't fit the headphone amplifier section. I took the input to the headphone amplifier, via a pot to adjust the volume, to a small 3W 8R speaker amplifier module. This was powered from an external power supply to reduce the current drawn over the coms line. Coms line only powered the beltpack PCB.

I could purchase one, but I have a load of spare beltpack pcbs that I need a use for, and I like to make stuff! http://www.blue-room.org.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif

Ah right, I thought that would be the case. I am looking at building a little desktop base station with a speaker and built in mic. I wondered if the headphone amp would do to drive a little high impeadence speaker. Ill stick a little amplifier in there then to drive it.

Is there a value for the minimum headphone impeadence for the headphone amp output? I seem to remember seeing it somewhere but can't find it now.

I increased C22 to a 10uF 50V and it is much better. It doesn't click any more but more of a low end thump, but much lower in volume. 47uF may make it even more quiet but 10uF is good for me. Thanks for the fix!

Have you managed to do any testing to reduce the 'thump'? I have also tried changing C22 but with no help. Would increasing R12/22 slow the charge rate of C22 slowing the time for TR2 to turn on?

10nF? Should be 10uF. You could try a 1uF which are already used as C17/C18 if you have some spare.

I have a few pairs of these superlux headsets and the thump is quite painfull! I also have a few pairs of Beyerdynamic DT109s and the thump is nowhere near as painful, in fact it is quite a deep 'boof' rather than the superlux headsets which are much more like a loud click!

I have been building up a 'master station' for use with the beltpacks and have now reached a point where I can start some initial tests with a few belt packs connected. I designed the master station to hold all of the power supply circuitry as well as the termination circuitry. I have also added a line input module so auxiliary inputs can be put on the comms bus. The master station is also a dual channel unit that can be switched to connect bus A and B. This is all working as planned! I have also used a spare beltpack PCB inside the master station so I have a headset connection available. During my initial tests, I have noticed that the 'thump' in the headphones when the call button is pressed seems to be a lot louder than I expected. Is there a way to reduce this or have I got something wrong? I thought there was a thump as a bi-product of the call circuitry but I didn't expect it to be as loud as it is.

Cliff also do a 8.2mm round push button in red or black Link Here. May be a possible alternative?