gyro_gearloose

What was the current set to on the faulty ELN-60-24? Since all of the Meanwell drivers you are using limit the current, even though they don't need to, it might be possible that the original driver had its output current set a bit too low, which caused the EldoLED unit to brown out. This would then affect down-stream DMX signals. The EldoLED unit you are using has DMX in and DMX out, but it is not like a lot of conventional fixtures which have their DMX ins and outs connected directly to each other. Each EldoLED unit buffers the DMX output signal, meaning, in this instance, that if there is a problem with one unit then it won't output DMX correctly. Theres an application note on EldoLEDs website which covers this. Hope this helps.

It depends on exactly which Meanwell supply/driver the OP is using. Meanwell name their drivers by their rated wattage, and maximum output voltage, so a 60W/24V supply/driver supplies 60W constant current at up to 24V. Just to confuse things, some of their drivers can operate either in constant current or constant voltage mode. Heres the data sheet fit the first 60W/24V Meanwell I found on Google. Since the OP is using an EldoLED unit to actually drive their LEDs, they can do away with a current-limiting power supply as the EldoLED controller will limit the current for them.

Are you using Meanwell LED drivers or Meanwell power supplies? If you've got Meanwell LED drivers, then use something else! You only need to supply DC volts to the EldoLED unit, not a current-limited LED supply. The EldoLED unit does the current limiting for you.

It would help to know the brand/model of your uplights are. Its possible that the three 'faulty' lights have some sort of master/slave mode for when they are used in situations where no DMX controller is used or even needed. One fixture would act as the master and create the DMX signal to control the other fixtures. This type of setup is useful if you just need the lights to come on as soon as they are turned on, and run a simple sequence or effect such as colour-fades, etc.

I haven’t used the stuff myself, but Pepper Scrim looks like it will do what you need. Has anyone used this material, as it looks like something we could use for upcoming projects?

If you cant even tap dance on the original floor, how are you going to attach the ply/hardboard/etc?

*cough* mechanical dimming works with all types of light sources *cough* :) Edit: in all seriousness, I’ve noticed that the LED drivers, dimmable or not, seem to be by far the most expensive part of high power LED systems.

Seems like an odd request, given that 8 relays per byte gives you 4096 relays per universe! Controlling them will be a nightmare given that consoles more often than not work in percent rather than bits. It’s much easier to keep one relay per DMX address, and have them switch at 5, 50, or 95 percent. Perhaps the OP could explain why they want the type of system they are looking for?

It sounds like either your fixture address doesn’t match what it is patched to on your console, or you have the wrong fixture type/mode selected in the patch.

We’ve got some Doughty stands with speaker adapter which we use for our JBL Eons. We use the older versions of these stands, with some of these adapters. The stands have a SWL of 40kgs, so should be perfect for your speakers.

Buy something like this mic stand and unscrew the base. The short stand should then screw onto your singers stand, extending it so that their mic should fit.

The best time to be investing on new LED kit was five years ago. The second best time is now! Osram will be, or maybe already has, ceased production of PAR lamps, and have recalled all lamps made after November 2016 as their quality was so poor. GE has stopped making them as well, and Phillips may well follow suit. All of which means if you have a large Parcan rig then you really should be looking at replacing them sharpish! T- class lamps such as the T26, T19, T29, etc, and HPL lamps will be available for longer because there aren't that many affordable theatrical LED profiles or Fresnels which could replace a Tungsten rig, but that situation won't last forever.

If you want to drive 'conventional' non-pixel LED tape with your Arduino you will need some MOSFETs to switch the power to the LEDs, as the Arduino can't directly switch the several Amps of power that the LEDs will use. This page tells you all you need to know about the hardware and software. You could try using one of these handy little interfaces between your Arduino and your 12V LED tape. On the input side they have three opto-isolators, and the output of these drive three MOSFETs which switch the power to the LEDs. You shouldn't need a dedicated 12V-5V converter to power your Arduino as it should have one fitted already! All of the pre-made boards, and the boards I designed myself have an LM7805 linear regulator to step the incoming DC voltage down to the 5 volts that the Arduino needs.

Whenever I need to run some TRS along a bar, I loosely knot the socket end of the cable around the bar and support the rest of it with PVC tape. Where the cable(s) run off the end of the bar I just form a sort of half clove hitch to hang the cabling off the bar. The tape holds the cable up, and the knots will hold the cable should the tape fail.

High power LEDs shouldn’t be too hard to find. I’m looking at fitting some LEDs to my last pair of Miniscans, and the LED/driver/optic combination I’m thinking of using are given in this thread. Hope this information is of some use to you. Edit: computer heatsinks are an effective cooling solution for LEDs.

I'm surprised that no one has suggested fitting a Rosco I-Cue to the front of the projector. I know usedlighting had a few for sale recently...

According to Chauvet the LED is 140W at 6A, so it needs just under 24 volts. Does the fixture electronically dim the LED? The 8 volts you are seeing might just be low current leakage from the driver if the dimmer channel is at 0%.

You can still upgrade to Windows 10 for free if you have a licensed version of 7 or 8. Have a look at this page. Rest assured that it is all above board and it works perfectly. I upgraded a couple of laptops earlier this year without any problems.

Slightly off topic, but still relevant. If you are completely blacking out a room, what are you doing about the requirement for emergency exit lights?

Our Sennheiser infrared system allows users to connect earphones to the receivers if they wish, so they don’t need to have a hearing aid of their own. Also, if you go for a two channel system you can use it for audio description for visually impaired customers.

One of these any use?

I'll PM you a Dropbox link when I get home. Can't remember my password off the top of my head :) I've got a NanoKontrol at home which I bought to control the old Martin MPC software. Useful bit of kit. You can easily create a custom keyboard cheaply if you search for 'pos keyboard' on the bay of e. A lot of these keyboards seem to be programmable, and you can usually print your own key labels.

I just use 'Direct Selects' to give me the on-screen buttons. I use the top row to select the group of movers, then the next three rows to select position, colour, and beam (gobos, gobo rotation, prism, etc). Once I select a group I can then select as many different palettes as I need. I only need to re-select the group(s) if I want to control different movers. I have movement effects on submasters so I can control their size and speed. I can send you a show file to have a look at if you'd like? Do you have any physical faders? I get twitchy when controlling lights or sound without any :) I know EOS is meant to support USB MIDI now, but I don't know if this will allow you to use a fader wing with Nomad? I'm working on an Arduino project that would send OSC messages to our Element to control the first ten faders, but it needs finishing off... Edit: you can use USB fader wings, but its a bit convoluted. I found this thread on the ETC forum

Do you have flightcases for your movers? You could stand them on end and then stand a Mac on top. Personally I wouldn't put movers on a pole in a tank trap as they do tend to flex a bit. At our venue I've got some Coemar Prospot 250s, which have similar capabilities to your Macs. We have 4 permanently in the air, with 2 more which I usually put on up-ended flight cases. Putting the fixtures on flight cases allows me to get them high enough to get any beams overs the bands heads. I can also sweep the auditorium with them as well. We are a conventional proscenium theatre so any movers on the lighting bars can't usually reach much of the auditorium. Having the fixtures spread out and at different heights creates more interesting shapes through haze than if they were all on the same bar. What desk are you using? We've got an original ETC Element. Most of the shows we light are either cue-based plays/musicals, or just busked using subs for the generic washes and specials. We rarely get to busk with our movers, either because shows have their own movers/desk/operator, or because they won't pay to use our movers. The Element isn't really meant to be used to busk with movers, but fortunately we have a touchscreen monitor so we can set up on-screen buttons for position/colour/beam palettes, and use subs to only control the movers intensity. I tend to treat the movers in the air and the ones on the floor as two separate groups rather than six individual fixtures. Hope this helps

OBS Studio looks like it can do what you want. Basically you'd run the software on a PC that is on the same network as the iPads, and use it to stream the video to all of the iPads at once. This guide suggests how you might set up the streaming PC. The second PC in the guide would be your iPads. Audio would come from the streaming PC, with maybe a little bit of delay added to allow for any delays introduced to the video stream.