timsabre

In my painful experiences with induction loops and video it's normally some sort of earthing fault on the loop cable which causes video breakup. As it's unlikely you'll be able to fix that, you can get sdi isolating transformers or as David suggests, though more expensive, convert to fibre and back.

Do you have an induction loop in the space with ambient mic. If so try turning it off

I've used the chauvet ovation profiles and was impressed, you could get a convincing tungsten looking light out of them and good pale tints. As Bryson says they are full S4 size so bigger than your S4 jrs.

Is there any indication on the unit as to whether it thinks it's receiving DMX? I just downloaded the manual but it doesn't say, as far as I can see. Some units of that genre flash the display backlight if they aren't receiving DMX... If the screen and menu system stays operational then you would think it has lost DMX for some reason. When it's frozen, can you switch it to stand alone mode using the menu system and does that make it do anything?

Reverse DMX polarity is a thing but (barring weird installation errors) will not be a problem between Strand and Zero88 products. Random chinese disco lighting, maybe. Also (going way back) Strand had a control system called D54 which used 3 pin XLR. I have once nearly been caught out by an old installation which I thought was DMX but on further investigation turned out to be D54. Definitely way before the days of Strand MX though.

Unlikely that incorrect master/slave would cause this but it's not unusual for a DMX receiver chip to fail (in general, I don't know this fixture either) . There are only a few types of chip used by everyone, the usual device is an 8 pin RS485 transceiver 75176 or SN75176. It's usually easy to locate by tracing the incoming DMX signal. Spares available on eBay or from Farnell etc

I agree with Dave M, a low/chilled fogger would be better for this effect. I've done ducting with smoke machines and you need the pressure of a smoke machine in full flow to get the smoke down the pipe. I don't think you would get enough pressure out of a hazer to get it to go down a pipe and it wouldn't be very visible when it comes out.

This is all correct as the drive algorithms for the mirror motors are designed to take into account the weight of the mirror.As James Remo posted above you will not get such a mirror from a normal mirror glass supplier - you need to go to an optical glass specialist such as a laser optics supplier or a dichroic glass supplier. "First surface mirror" and "Dichroic mirror" are good search terms when looking for a supplier.

My first course of action would be to contact Avo support - 0208 965 8522. They will be able to talk you through fault finding.

Windows key + shift + M restores all minimised windows, if that's what the problem is. Windows + shift + left arrow/right arrow moves application selected in taskbar to other monitor, if it's somehow moved to another monitor

Using DI boxes for the audio as suggested above is the better solution. Running out long power cables sometimes doesn't work and is often a pain to do.

I think you said a few posts ago that putting the wireless tx unit in line between the controller and first parcan fixed the problem. This makes me think it is something electrical rather than a timing problem, since the tx unit will just be a pass through. If you have the controller and the first parcan running but not plugged into each other, and you measure voltage between pin 1 on the the controller and pin 1 on the parcan, do you get a surprising voltage there? The reason I suggested timing is that the only wireless DMX kit with which I am familiar (CTI) does indeed re-time the packets. I don't know about the budget end of the market - do they simply transmit the logic levels without doing anything to them? Ah good point. Most stuff I have seen just links through the DMX without any processing.

I think you said a few posts ago that putting the wireless tx unit in line between the controller and first parcan fixed the problem. This makes me think it is something electrical rather than a timing problem, since the tx unit will just be a pass through. If you have the controller and the first parcan running but not plugged into each other, and you measure voltage between pin 1 on the the controller and pin 1 on the parcan, do you get a surprising voltage there?

Pin 1 to earth doesn't stop DMX working. In fact most mains-connected controllers (except class 2 ones) will have a connection between their circuit 0V (which will be connected to pin 1) and earth - probably via a resistor. The reason it is not allowed by the DMX spec is to avoid large fault currents flowing down the DMX cable if something untoward gets connected to it.

Agree with Dave, sounds like pin 1 of the wired DMX is not connected on the problem controller. A lot of fixtures will work without this but some won't. When you put the wireless transmitter in series it adds the ground back in.

30W/50W LED, 13 degree beam - I think you will probably find they aren't bright enough to be seen against your other lights which are much more powerful. What were the fixtures that the band brought? If you can find a beam-type fixture you would get away with a lower power source.

For a painted gauze you'd normally side light it from side boom positions otherwise a lot of light goes through the gauze and lights up the scene behind which spoils the effect - a flat-on front projection is going to spill a lot of light through but it'd still be a nice effect.

The trouble with those LED flood type fixtures vs "uplighter" type fixtures is the lack of beam control. The beam angle is pretty much 180 degrees so the light just goes all over the place without creating much intensity anywhere. That's my experience anyway. You don't get "stripes of colour" as stated by the OP.

Without using a specialist dimmer like the Artistic Licence sundial ones, "dimmable" LED lamps don't dim well and have a distracting snap off and snap on at the bottom end - not so good if you've been used to a nice smooth halogen fade out. It's surprising there are very few remote controllable versions of the classic flat LED floods - DMX is maybe a bit unlikely as it's quite specialist but I would have thought there'd be wifi or bluetooth ones. I can find a few - such as this one from Ledvance/Osram - but they are quite pricey. I bet your tungsten birdies took a bit of looking after. GU10's seem to need replacing every 10 minutes.

Isn't working for me - listed on Google but times out if you try to go there

I was asked a similar question about dimmable houselights and was looking at these https://www.bax-shop.co.uk/led-bar/eurolite-led-cbb-2-cob-ww-bar They're 70w so you'd probably need 2 to be equivalent to a single 500w halogen. Not too expensive though. I never actually tried them as the project didn't go ahead.

Could be a wiring loom problem, I presume the sensor is in the head and it's an i2c serial device so will have 2 wires back to the mainboard.

You get a box called an OLT (optical line terminal?) which just has a cat5 plug to connect your router and a mains psu brick to power it. At least that's how it works here. Analogue lines are handled as a completely separate thing.

The X32 I was using was bought in the first year of it being out - 2014 I think. Before they changed the front panel buttons to be silvery.

They switched the network to a priority access mode which supposedly only allowed emergency service users to connect, and apparently 999 calls could still be made. But many of the emergency services phones were not correctly configured so they couldn't connect either, so after a few hours they switched it back to normal. I read this on t'internet so I don't know if it is true or not.