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Dismantling a Chauvet COLORado 1 IP fixture


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I need to change a damaged power cord on a Chauvet COLORado 1 IP fixture. The damage is too close the the inlet to make a repair externally, so I need to get in to the fixture itself.

I have removed all the screws at the front, as well as those holding the yoke, but I cannot easily separate the two parts without a lot of force. I worry that if I try too hard, I may do some irreparable damage.

It's only ever used indoors, so I'm not worried about losing the IP rating for liquids.

Does anyone have any experience of this? It's for a community group, so an "appointed service centre" is not an option..

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Not worked on this model but see if there is a vacuum port on the fixture. As JP says, Chauvet tech are friendly. 

Edit: looking at a picture of the fixture, it looks like the power in is on Tru1. Are sure you need to open it?

Edited by indyld
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What was the secret to the stuck housing?

Watched a bit of the video but it mostly just reminded me that I too used to dismantle IP fixtures with only manual screwdrivers. Happy not to go back to that.

The latest IP65 moving heads are a quantity of fixings nightmare. Even the manufacturer's service dept moan about them.

Can't say I much enjoy the increased weight either. Moving lights these days are neither 'light' nor easy to move on the bench. I preferred the transition to LED before they started making everything heavy again. 


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  • 2 weeks later...

I've just been tearing apart a few Colorado TRI IP's and they seem to be really easy to deal with but I'm not sure if your model is similar. The lens plate comes off with 8 3MM Allen bolts and the plate and lens can be lifted off. If it's stuck just do some jiggling/slight knocking and that should loosen it. Then the diode plate assembly can be unscrewed in the same way, 8 3MM Allen bolts. This may also be seized up a bit but same as above, a little jiggling should loosen it. Then there should be three leads to the diode plate, two large ones that feed the diode plate itself and a small one for a thermostat. Unplug all of these but number the two larger terminals (please). Once the plate is lifted you'll see the driver board and the power supply mounted to the chassis on a metal bracket held in place by four Phillips screws. Take the entire assembly out and you have access to the AC and DMX input/output cables. The damaged AC cable can be pulled through by slackening the Rhyno bushing on the back of the chassis and pulling the cable through to the inside of the unit. If there's enough length, simply cut away the bad piece and reconnect using the existing wire connectors and after tightening up the wire connectors, shoot a bead of sealant inside each one to make sure that they don't loosen and fall off. You can then test the AC in and out feeds for continuity and then reassemble.

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