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indyld

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    Lecturer/Tutor on theatre related course
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    Former Freelance Lighting Designer, Programmer and Production Manager in Commercial Events. Now a specialist educator in technical production disciplines. I'm also a Senior Lecturer in Theatre Production at Bath Spa University. http://uk.linkedin.com/pub/rob-sayer/26/701/72b
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    Rob Sayer

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    http://www.onstagelighting.co.uk
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Technical Manager

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  1. Look up default cue stacks in the manual.
  2. Factory reset to defaults is a common diagnostic first step on any fixture that isn't behaving as expected. The user manual is your friend.
  3. Indeed, I was just trying to prove the pump. In my case, the issue turned out to be a control thing but I can't remember the details other than something was making the MCU block the firing of the pump. I wonder if, in your case, something similar is the case and your 'polarity fix' and the circuit arrangement is allowing a drive voltage across the pump regardless of the actual control system.
  4. Not a Chauvet product, but I was scolded by another manufacturer for testing a pump the old skool way. "Applying 230 volts directly to the pump does nothing for the diagnosis. Please assemble the device completely and then check whether the pump is controlled by PWM voltage via the circuit board ." The pump worked when tested in a similar manner.
  5. Cheers. I've gone for the 'buy something that seems similar and see what it does' option (although I think I count 28 detents and can only find 24s). To gain more information, I figured I can either put the encoder back in circuit if possible for testing, or connect it to a small test rig with a few components, and use 2 channels of the 'scope to see what's what in terms of leading pulse etc. Am pretty sure they are the mechanical type though as they don't seem complex enough to have hidden magic inside and a continuity test between A / B and GND/Com/Whatever reads as on/off/on/off.... At least the mechanical are the less complex to match up.
  6. I've looked at different types and their applications and it seems likely that this may just be a mechanical one with what are effectively a bunch of rotating contacts, so when am next testing I will first check this. Would make sense as this is a consumer product and the encoder just needs to tell a controller to turn the volume up or down with relatively few rotations over its lifetime.
  7. I'm looking to work out the spec of a volume/switch encoder of type the Bourne/ALPS make with 3+2 pins (2 pins being on/off). It's actually for a car radio but I figure those that work with digitial mixers may have experience of the spec of encoders in these kinds of applications. Or at least some ideas on how I might try to reverse engineer the situation. There aren't any markings on the faulty one and the exact look of the shaft etc. isn't something I can find searching online plus obviously what it looks like isn't the key thing. The exact form factor is not the issue, the problem is working out what might replace it. Is there a common range of specs used for this kind of thing to start seeking an alternative? I have a o'scope etc. and imagine that the number of clicks plus however the pulses are arranged are the main differentiators. I may be able to power the circuit for testing, maybe not. Cheers.
  8. Lots already mentioned but my main tips for these being lock to an opposing connector, remove the gland completely, remember that the thread is reverse. And when nothing else works, get the gas grips out.
  9. Factory reset the fixture and attempt to clear error logs if this is possible. If the fixture tilts ok during boot up, find the tilt sensor and check for potential problems. If there is another sensor of the same type, pan for example, swap them and see what happens. Or swap with one from a known good fixture. If the sensor is a hall effect type, look to see if the magnet is missing. If it's optical, check for dirt in the opto.
  10. Cheers for the heads up. Downloaded out of curiosity as not really spent time having to admin Luminex things. Seemed to do stuff and find ArtNet devices OK but didn't get if it dealt with sACN too. For me, Wireshark is a friendly GUI with lots of features and a more accessible solution than TCPDump. I guess the deal with the more specialised tools is that they subscribe to whatever is relevant and give a 'OK' or 'Not OK' kinda of clarity.
  11. Some useful info here. The thing is, different versions of Art-Net work in various ways and it's anybody's guess what has and hasn't been implemented on cheaper "compatible" boxes. People often assume Art-Net is still basically broadcast but as mentioned subscriptions need managing etc. The upside to something like Wireshark is you can see everything, the downside - you can see everything... I generally filter for relevant traffic, in this case Art-Net packets, polling, replies and such.
  12. Lots of good advice from Tomo, but something to add for troubleshooting for the OP or others looking to see what's going on in sACN or Art-Net land. I don't use DMX Workshop, but use the more generic network diagnostic tools and can highly recommend Wireshark for packet inspection. I also wouldn't usually be testing something I was unsure about using DHCP.
  13. I can't see a DMX reset but channel 18 has a motor reset function in 18ch mode. This is why it's important to check everything is in the correct mode and there aren't any channel overlaps.
  14. If it's a problem with the fixture startup sequence or hardware, it won't boot properly with or without DMX. If DMX signal is genuinely the diagnostic variable, the problem isn't likely to be the rest of the fixture. Also check that the symptom isn't the result of some inbuilt effect or standalone macro.
  15. Check all the standard things if not already done. Factory reset, set to the same address as a working fixture. Check the mode and that your are using the correct fixture file. If a DMX signal seems to be the only thing that causes a repeat reset, it's worth eliminating the possibility that the control is asking it to.
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