Shaun Foster Posted May 10, 2005 Share Posted May 10, 2005 Perhaps that should be one of your priorities for repair/upgrading - before someone who isn't quite as sensible comes along and decided to have a look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axle Posted May 10, 2005 Author Share Posted May 10, 2005 is certainly up there, I DID try putting a padlock on the lever itself so it couldn't be turned on. Guess what, the drama teacher, who I told along with two of the other people who are helping with this, had it cut off instead of trying to use the contact details on it or asking my brother (who still goes to the school and had a spare key). Anyway, can you get security screws (like the types you can get for PCs) that are large enough (without over-use of washers) to close one of those switches? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryson Posted May 10, 2005 Share Posted May 10, 2005 You (not an employee of the school) put a padlock on some school property, and then get snippy when a genuine employee cuts it off? Hmmmm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axle Posted May 10, 2005 Author Share Posted May 10, 2005 Yes, because she told me it was ok to put the padlock on as she didn't want people messing with it o.o Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darkfold Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 Ah, I know that feeling... Happens in all schools with drama staff unfortunately (mainly because theyre wannabe lovvies :huh: J/K) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mostlyharmless Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 Your managing to get money out of a school B-) Most schools just go with whatever company advertises themselves as 'specialist in schools' which means they rip them off.. From the look of that, try and just get it all up to health and safety standards, then start upgrading after that.. About the ladder thing, I know our school had to get special insurance for the tech team before our last show as they where worried about health and safety. And whoever mentioned how cool it would be to have a little room to do sound from - its not good when its like our new hall and behind the stage, with a window looking out :P and bloody sound proof. Do you have any idea it how hard it is to run a show when you cant see because your window is blocked off and all you can hear is standing by the door listening to the reflection off the back wall! And the school has still not brought enough leads to run it all from the back of the hall, so I end up phoning the local hire company with "can I hire 2 speaker leads, 10 XLRs, thats it.......nah I dont attucally want any lights...oh and can you deliver cos I cant drive....cheers" :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axle Posted May 12, 2005 Author Share Posted May 12, 2005 Well, our booth is in a pretty good position, however, it has a steel girder running along the ceiling right in the centre. So builders being builders decided to not bothered working around it, instead they left a gap right across the top, every movement or whisper in there can be heard by the audience as there is absolutely no soundproofing. We plan on filling the walls with rockwool to soundproof it a bit, then some underlay|chipboard|foam on the floor to quieten that down, then hang some condenser mikes off the rigging and have some monitors in the booth to work from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulears Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 Got to say this guys - but almost every venue that has sound in a soundproof room hates t, then spends loads of dosh, makng the window removable. It is impossible to mix using overhead mics through monitor speakers, abit as much use as trying to desk op using the image from a worn out camera on the balcony edge. venues lose loads of revenue by having to have mix positions in the room, if they could do it from a sepaate room at the back, they would, but it just doesn't work. Even a straight play with no real sound apart from maybe a few spot fx suffers from being shut away - the balance between natural speech and the amplified effect is verydifficult to get right, and as for eq - forget it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axle Posted May 12, 2005 Author Share Posted May 12, 2005 Just as a wiring question, is it ok (signals won't interfere etc) to run analogue and DMX control wires in the same trunking (4 of each); which is the best wire to use for each? and where can I get it from?<{POST_SNAPBACK}> Think the question was missed (or was too obvious to really require an answer) but I want to know before I go and run this along the ceiling to the dimmers that the analogue cable won't interfere with the DMX at all. I know you're not supposed to run DMX next to mains cable, but that's a far greater voltage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulears Posted May 12, 2005 Share Posted May 12, 2005 you can run analogue and DMX next to each other with no problems whatsoever. The 0-10v analogue is dc, so isn't a snag. DMX wise, I'd promote the use of proper data cable (personally, I like the turquoise Canford stuff) rather than mic cable. That said, if the run isn't too far decent mic cable does work, but isn't the right technical spec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axle Posted May 12, 2005 Author Share Posted May 12, 2005 Turquoise would certainly make writing a 'Dummies guide to LX Opping at <insert name of school here>' a hell of a lot easier. "The turqouise wire is the digi... on second thoughts, don't touch anything, call me and I'll come fix it.... again" :P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darkfold Posted May 13, 2005 Share Posted May 13, 2005 Just written one of them... Hate having to think up what to write in it :( And those basic bits you think 'they cant be that stupid, surely...' oh yes they can :blink: Just had to stop someone from poking the sockets of a dimmer with a key (It was on at full up all) As far as sound mixing positions go, ours is ideal. Just a bench at the back of front of house (not sure how that works :P) raised about 1m above the audience on a staging platform. Speaking of which, we have a production on at the end of next month (middle of exams anyone?) that I'm 'head tech' for with the rest of the crew being a bunch of year 9 who havent got a clue :P sounds fun, but I will be taking photos of the setup so you can see it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfitzpat Posted May 13, 2005 Share Posted May 13, 2005 Just as a wiring question, is it ok (signals won't interfere etc) to run analogue and DMX control wires in the same trunking (4 of each); which is the best wire to use for each? and where can I get it from?<{POST_SNAPBACK}> Think the question was missed (or was too obvious to really require an answer) but I want to know before I go and run this along the ceiling to the dimmers that the analogue cable won't interfere with the DMX at all. I know you're not supposed to run DMX next to mains cable, but that's a far greater voltage.<{POST_SNAPBACK}> You'll save yourself a lot of grief with DMX if you use a real twisted pair. Mic cable can work, but it generally is not twisted. Also, the good mic stuff is made to handle 80 KHz or so without harmonic distortion, unfortunately this can give you other problems with DMX's 250 KHz 'square' wave. I recall an online DMX FAQ somewhere that listed a bunch of suitable cables and manufacturers. I'll try to dig it up for you. -jjf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axle Posted May 13, 2005 Author Share Posted May 13, 2005 I was looking at the Tourflex stuff off AC lighting for the DMX cabling when I got round to doing it but if there is something better, it ain't my money and with the schools reputation for maintenance... the better the cable the... better >.> On that point, with the dimmers, I was recommended by a friend (already a long way into the industry) to have tailing CEEforms from the dimmers to make it easier to swap/repair them or allow the outlets to be used by the guys the have in for the proms. What would be the best cable for doing that? I was looking at the 5 core HO7 stuff but it doesn't specify (although I'm sure it probably is) wether it's all now with the harmonised colours. Also, can anyone point me to a list of the current rating to cable diameters as I lost the laminated card I had for checking >.< Whilst I'ts still fresh in my mind, can anyone point me to a good retailer that will ship out small orders. I'm only after 4 chassis mount 8 pin din sockets for an analogue patch panel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axle Posted May 15, 2005 Author Share Posted May 15, 2005 *bump* cos I need the help badly and editing doesn't do this o.o Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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