passive bins to active conversion

[Finton Stack]

Hi, just joined here to see if anyone can offer any advice on the following:

 

I have 4 old electrovoice bins which I use in pairs for pub bands and dj's. They are front loaded single 15's and I am fairly sure the model was TL606 although when I google that I always get other variants including DIY versions and twin 15's

They originally came with ev dl15x's and a passive xlr crossover plate although I modified them a few years ago with speakons, new grills and new beyma 15's. Once the new drivers were in the speakers sounded at least twice as good as they ever did previously, especially with a macrotech 2400 they deliver nice punchy low end.

Now I am wanting to create an all active system as a small stage/pub band/dj system. I already have 4 rcf art 710's and was thinking of using 2 FOH and investing in a couple of their compact active bins.

 

So what I am wondering is, instead of buying 2 rcf active bins, maybe I could convert a couple of the ev's to active using something like these.

 

http://www.aliexpres...399579650.html?

 

The EV's are very similar to these:

http://images10.post...ndlab-p115c.JPG

 

Has anyone here been down this route with passive cabinets and if so how did it turn out? Can anyone recommend amplifier/dsp modules for this purpose?

 

Cheers

[paulears]

I can only comment on the make. This supplier is quite a well known Chinese supplier and often seems to have JBL over-runs available. They do seem to have happy customers. I guess the only issue will be that if one does fail, you won't get another, as shelf life is limited and spares rarely kept, so if it worries you, buy a spare, just in case.

 

Does the internal bracing allow you to actually fit it?

[TonyMitchell]

To convert a two-way passive cab to active, simply remove or bypass the internal crossover and wire the individual pairs to your chosen configuration on an NL4 (or your connector of choice) on the back panel, e.g. 1+/1- for LF, 2+/2- for HF.

 

For a three-way passive cab, use an NL8 and wire the pairs similarly, e.g. 1+/1- for LF, 2+/2- for MHF, 3+/3- for HF, 4+/4- unused.

 

A ten minute job and you may hear your speakers like you have never heard them before. If you are new to this, just be mindful that without the internal crossover network, it is now much, much easier to kill your CDs, as there is no protection downstream.... so ensure your LMS is set up with sufficient gain reduction on the HF channels.

 

 

 

 

 

[timsabre]

To convert a two-way passive cab to active...

 

As he's talking about installing amp modules, I think he meant "powered" rather than "active".

[TonyMitchell]

To convert a two-way passive cab to active...

 

As he's talking about installing amp modules, I think he meant "powered" rather than "active".

 

I think you're right, Tim, indeed he means "converting unpowered to powered speakers". TBH, I only read the subject... that'll teach me.

[Jivemaster]

http://www.bkelec.com/MODULES/Sub_Bass.htm

 

One of several suppliers of amps in panels. Had some stuff from them years age but not these.

 

Sometimes a bass amp plate contains a MF+HF pass filter to pass signal on to a top box.

[sam.spoons]

Not something I've considered for a few years but I'd say sticking with passive subs and an amp would be the way to go here unless the budget is in place for decent active subs (JBL PRX 718 as a minimum). Given that the OP has decent passives driven from a Crown Macroech 2400 (serious power amps) anything less will almost certainly be a big disappointment. Also the money spent on a home brew rig is always going to be lost on resale.

[Finton Stack]

Hi, thanks for all the comment on this. Sorry for any confusion between active and powered. Just to be clear, they are front loaded bass cabs and at present are unpowered. There is no crossover because I always run these in an active (in the more conventional sense, ie low passed before amp stage, not to be confused with self powered) system.

Thanks Sam Spoons, yes I agree, the macrotechs are awesome, however I rarely use them in the majority of work I do these days(small gigs, weddings, private parties) and the subs are usually happy enough driven from a smaller amp because the drivers are very efficient. However I would like headroom thats not too far away from the macrotech, is that unrealistic with this type of module as it states 1200w at 8ohm(I presume that could mean 600W rms)?

I like the idea of utilising what I have to make a neat 4 or 8 box small venue system and a module is a fraction of the cost of an rcf 905 or similar so am still wondering if this could be a good way to go.

Paulears, 'Does the internal bracing allow you to actually fit it?' there is no internal bracing getting in the way but the cabs are of solid construction, Should be plenty enough room to fit a module but will be careful to measure everything first.

Thanks again for the advice.

[paulears]

Looks like a good solution - the question on bracing was because I had the bright idea to insert (don't laugh) the 19" amplifier from the rack, to the speaker for one idea I had. Size wise it looked simple - and then it was only when the jigsaw wouldn't cut - I realised that the bottom of the cab I could see after removing one driver, wasn't the bottom of the cab - it was a slot port! Doh!

[carlskeats]

Linear Reaserch http://www.linea-research.co.uk/ make OEM amp models that are also used in some previous models of Turbosound and some other manufactures. Very Solid amps with nice easy to use DSP.

[jamesperrett]

Hypex modules are also worth a look. They do complete panels or just the separate PSU and amplifier modules if you want to do your own metalwork. I've used them to power studio monitors and a friend has used them for live use with good results.

[Finton Stack]

Hello, I know this was ages ago but thought I would update as I forgot to earlier.

3 months ago I bought a pair of 1000w amp bass modules of an unknown make from a sound company who were selling them on used for £200.

I routed out 2 big holes in the back of 2 of the EV cabs, repainted, screwed in the modules and connected up the drivers.

Each module has hi pass stereo outputs and a parallel speakon output so I can run another passive bin and 1 or 2 active tops off each.

They work great, exactly what I wanted. Would recommend anyone else to do the same with old electrovoice/shuttlesound cabs, just make sure you put decent drivers in (beyma in this case).