MarkPAman Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 The rumble is the Subs working! What you need is to wire a lead so that the 2+/2- Hi Pass output of the Sub, goes to the input of the Main, which I assume is on 1+/1-. This is quite easy to do if your speakons are the 4 pole type - otherwise you'll have to get some. Mark up which end is which as they'll only work one way round! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sam.spoons Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 Great minds http://www.blue-room.org.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdherring Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 Think between us we may have got to the bottom of your problems :) Out of curiosity how did you have it wired different before? You mentioned you were going subs to tops before? What made you change to going tops to subs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toshy27 Posted March 2, 2015 Author Share Posted March 2, 2015 Yes, fingers crossed you have collectively got me sorted out The reference to my old set up was about my old rig. I always went amp to sub to main. This doesn't work with the new amp and speakers as setting up to subs first just gives me the subs - no sound out of the mains at all. so have to go main to subsGoing to dig out my speakon leads and check the wiring. Will probably end up just buying all new and marking up the ends as suggested. Thanks everyone for the advice :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdherring Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 Your interconnect leads (by this I mean the 1.5m leads you use between your subs and tops) should be a very nice quick job to simply undo one end and swap what is currently in 1+/1- and move them to 2+/2- then as you say mark this end with a bit of LX tape or something else so you know that end goes into the sub. The other end doesn't need any changes and should goto the tops. Now I understand your reference to your previous setup! Makes sense if it wasn't these boxes :) Let us know how you get on! :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mkfs9 Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 Easy. Into sub's first. Then wire a speakon is it sais for the tops only the sub end is wired differently. Mark the cable so you know at a glance. which way it has to be used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toshy27 Posted March 9, 2015 Author Share Posted March 9, 2015 Taking the gear down to the rehearsal room on Wednesday so will let you all know how I get on. Appreciate all the comments and advice. Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toshy27 Posted March 15, 2015 Author Share Posted March 15, 2015 Hi everyone. I bought new speakon leads wired as suggested and connected everything up this morning. I ran from the amp to the subs and from the high lass filter outputs to the mains. Playing music through them was no issue. Good, solid sound. I thought we've cracked it..... Then I plugged in the mic and started singing and the limiter kept cutting in as before. I spent a lot if time looking at gain structure. The trim was all the way down and the channel slide was at zero position. It just cannot take any vocal peak.. Cuts out just like it did before. I just don't get it. I'm a female singer, pretty powerful but no screamer. Tried different mics, different channels. Only way to stop it is drop volume or back right off the mic. Is the built in limiter too sensitive? I've contracted Thomann again and am hoping they'll take it back.Will now look for another amp and maybe spend a little more on it. Any suggestions? As a reminder, running 2xPeavey 118rx subs, 500w continuous, 1000w programme (whatever that means ** laughs out loud **) and 2000w peak at 4 ohm and 2 x peavey 5rx mains, same spec. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdherring Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 Hi Toshy sucks that it didn't solve the problem but does sound like the amp is running good now seeing as you say with music playing it was sounding solid. Very odd though what you are saying. What desk are you using? Lets try and eliminate variables. As for other amps.... My suggestion would be to get two 2 channel smaller amps and run one for subs and one for tops. That way you can have separate control on the bass and also if an amp fails at least you can still run your tops. But not sure that is needed yet, lets try and get to the bottom of this as its annoying the heck out of me that you are still having a problem. Also where in the UK are you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toshy27 Posted March 16, 2015 Author Share Posted March 16, 2015 Hi, I'm near peterboroughDesk is the Behringer X2442USB. Trim is set so low that clip light on desk doesn't come on even if I scream. Relatively new, prob just over a year old http://www.behringer.com/EN/Products/X2442USB.aspx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdherring Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 Okay not a million miles from me but certainly don't think I can get to you for a good few weeks. Anyway lets start with this. I assume you are taking the output direct from the desk to the amp via the XLR outs on the back of the desk? You talk about Trim.... do you mean the top pot on the channel, i.e. Gain? Also whats the second pot down set too? Can you take a picture of the desk and upload it so we can check out what settings you have on it? Just incase its something obvious there. P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkPAman Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 Does if behave the same way if you just plug the tops in on their own? I'm worried that the impedance mismatch you had before may have damaged the amp permanently , despite the cut out. Sounds from your first post, as if you were running for quite some time with a load on the amp that it was just not designed to cope with. :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdherring Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 Mark, I would agree but I think the impedance miss match may have come from me and some dodgy googling. As I said in one of my first replies to this I know squat all about HiSys gear and a quick dodgy google showed different impedance for the tops to subs. After Toshy saying they were all 4ohm and another google, plus the pictures of the back of the cabs it seems they are indeed 4ohm. Unless of course as I said earlier there has been a less than perfectly matched driver swap at some point. Shame of all this is that it would have been so easy to say it was impedance being the issue as it showed all the normal signs of such a fault! P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkPAman Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 No. There really was a problem. The impedance mismatch occurred when the system was plugged in Amps > Tops > Subs. The link connection in the top is just a link, so the 4 ohm top was then plugged in in parallel to a 4 ohm sub, resulting in a 2 ohm load. An amp that's designed for 4 ohms can burn out pretty quickly like that. Put simply, you're letting it deliver twice the current it's designed to. Plugged in properly, Amps > Sub > Tops, there is a crossover at the input of the sub which maintains the 4 ohms while the high pass output goes to the top. That's all good now, but if the amp's already been damaged...... Edit because auto-correct did not like "ohm" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdherring Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 Touche! I hadn't thought of that and hadn't reread the thread to realise you had already said that before. Sorry my bad I was thinking you were referring to my original note about it being 8 ohm and 4 ohm causing 2.4ohm load. Previous statement retracted ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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