Mr Steve Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 I have a Live 4/2 desk which has been stored for a few years, but previously had non functioning PFL across the whole desk (no sound from the 'phones, and no LEDs lit on the meters). Many years ago it would work if you loosened and wiggled the headphone socket. I'd like to take it apart to see if there is some sort of dry joint or poor connection around that area. Are there any tips to opening to desk up? I don't want to take out random screws and end up with a pile of parts in a heap! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timsabre Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 I have a Live 4/2 desk which has been stored for a few years, but previously had non functioning PFL across the whole desk (no sound from the 'phones, and no LEDs lit on the meters). Many years ago it would work if you loosened and wiggled the headphone socket. I'd like to take it apart to see if there is some sort of dry joint or poor connection around that area. Are there any tips to opening to desk up? I don't want to take out random screws and end up with a pile of parts in a heap! It's been a while, but if I remember correctly the first thing is to remove the whole back panel - I think it was fairly easy to identify the screws for this.However this only gives you access to the rear (non component side) of the PCB's. You might be able to do a bit of poking around at that point. If you need to get to the PCB components then it's very painful, you have to remove all the knobs, all the clamping nuts on the potentiometer shafts, all the clamping nuts on the jack sockets and the screws holding the XLRs in. There are then a few little black screws which hold the PCBs on standoff pillars. Happy hunting. (if the knobs are dirty, run them through a dishwasher cycle in a fabric bag while you have them off) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Steve Posted July 31, 2014 Author Share Posted July 31, 2014 If you need to get to the PCB components then it's very painful, you have to remove all the knobs, all the clamping nuts on the potentiometer shafts, all the clamping nuts on the jack sockets and the screws holding the XLRs in. There are then a few little black screws which hold the PCBs on standoff pillars. Happy hunting. Ah, thanks. I had a feeling someone may say that. I will see how far I get before I decide life may be too short ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timsabre Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 Ah, thanks. I had a feeling someone may say that. I will see how far I get before I decide life may be too short ;) A nut spinner makes the job much faster, it's worth buying one if you have to take all the pot nuts off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 A nut spinner makes the job much faster, it's worth buying one if you have to take all the pot nuts off. +1 I did a similar job a few months ago, and found that a 10mm socket on a 1/4" extension drive was ideal. But if the pot shafts had been any longer, it wouldn't have worked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobbsy Posted August 1, 2014 Share Posted August 1, 2014 Tim's memory matches mine from 15 years or so back. I wish I'd thought of the nut spinner! The good news is that, once you've driven yourself crazy taking off ever knob and nut, the innards are pretty well built and easy to follow. I'd say that wiggling the phones socket is a pretty good clue. BTW, while you're in the mood for soldering, have a go at the power supply box. Mine at least had a tendency towards electrolytics drying out and putting it out of regulation with the attendant noise. They were dead easy to fix once you got going but it was one of those "turn on the radio and make a pot of tea" jobs. It's probably worth doing though...I really liked working on my Spirit Live board--it punched way above its weight in terms of cost vs quality/facilities. Last I hear, the guy I sold it to in 2005 is still using it even though it was more than a decade old even then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J Pearce Posted August 1, 2014 Share Posted August 1, 2014 It would have gone together with an air driven nut spinner, with a torque clutch set very low. I've had good success using a electric screwdriver set to low torque with a nut spinner. You want a driver though, not a drill driver, the lighter body makes it easier to align and not crack pot stems.I did work experience at soundcraft, spent a whole day just screwing down pots. It was dull. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Steve Posted August 6, 2014 Author Share Posted August 6, 2014 Solved. Removed the aux board only, and metered a dry joint from two pins on the smaller multipin connector. Obviously the pressure of flexing the board via the headphone jack made the connection. Feeling chuffed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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