lxhipster Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Hello all, I am currently trying to find a way to create a strip of light (boxed) with dimensions of 60M x 1M to resemble effects of light you get from sunlight shining through a skylight. I'd probably be using a number of even brightness (by changing out all the lamps, cleaning the reflectors and measuring the output), even angles and same type of Profile fixturesto achieve the same intensity. The fixtures would be evenly spreaded out on a strip of truss spanning the length of 60 meters. However now comes the hard part, what would be the most efficient way of overlapping the edge of a hard edged focused profile fixtures without the overlapping edges becoming visible and displaying the shutter cut lines when people are walking in it. I was thinking about creating a gradient gobo (think Projector edge blending) and experimenting with diffusion to be able to seamlessly blend allthe profile fixtures but currently is not entirely sure whether it would cause the output to lose it sharpness or not? Appreciate if any of you can share any ideas or experiences you have on doing these types of setup. Cheers, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IRW Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Hello all, I am currently trying to find a way to create a strip of light (boxed) with dimensions of 60M x 1M to resemble effects of light you get from sunlight shining through a skylight. I'd probably be using a number of even brightness (by changing out all the lamps, cleaning the reflectors and measuring the output), even angles and same type of Profile fixturesto achieve the same intensity. The fixtures would be evenly spreaded out on a strip of truss spanning the length of 60 meters. However now comes the hard part, what would be the most efficient way of overlapping the edge of a hard edged focused profile fixtures without the overlapping edges becoming visible and displaying the shutter cut lines when people are walking in it. I was thinking about creating a gradient gobo (think Projector edge blending) and experimenting with diffusion to be able to seamlessly blend allthe profile fixtures but currently is not entirely sure whether it would cause the output to lose it sharpness or not? Appreciate if any of you can share any ideas or experiences you have on doing these types of setup. Cheers, Ah! What you want are some Pattern 264's! (Not sure you're going to find them though!) I don't know if there is currently a modern equivalent- maybe someone else does? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lxhipster Posted July 31, 2013 Author Share Posted July 31, 2013 Ah! What you want are some Pattern 264's! (Not sure you're going to find them though!) I don't know if there is currently a modern equivalent- maybe someone else does? Didn't know such things used to exist in the past. I hope somebody comes up with a modern version of it. Would save days! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the kid Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 I never got round to it but I was going to take a shutter and see if a pair of tin snips and a hammer would work. I don't see why not as you want 2 blended and 2 hard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timsabre Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 The 264 (and strand t-spot) had 4 shutters in the focal plane, giving hard edges, and 4 more shutters out of the focal plane giving soft edges. The soft shutters had serrated edges too but it was the out of focus position which made them work. So if you can use a gobo for 2 edges and shutters for the other 2, the difference in focus might make that work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.elsbury Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Isn't this why you align the lamp in the reflector to a peaked field, so you can overlap units and maintain an even wash? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J Pearce Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Do you really mean spaced out on a truss 60 metres long? That would be a very impressive skylight! For the effect of sun through a skylight I'd prefer to go for a PC with barndoors, preferably as high as possible to get a nice narrow beam spread. A symmetric flood with barndoors can also produce a good effect, though the beam angle is wider. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itiba Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 I suppose if you had budget for it maybe glass gobos with the affect you described but that would cost $$$ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vinntec Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Isn't this why you align the lamp in the reflector to a peaked field, so you can overlap units and maintain an even wash?Damn that's what I was going to say! Source Fours certainly used to have them - if I remember correctly (as we don't have any here) there is a knob on the back with two levels. The back one adjust the lamp position and the upper one the oeak/flat alignment. Is this still how it is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulears Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Not as effective as a 264/764 Bifocal - which has never been replicated in any other fixture I've seen. The soft shutters are really soft, quite like a Fresnel. The peaky field knob doesn't really do the same thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vinntec Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 The peaky field knob doesn't really do the same thing.Yes but the Acclaim Axial manual does say you can use it for exactly this purpose. I dug out an old Source Four manual and it implies you are only adjusting to make the beam flat and getting rid of the hot spots. This is what the Acclaim axial (older model) handbook says: Peak/Flat Light DistributionThe lamp position can be altered to peak or flatten the light output of Zoomspots. The peak beam gives a central hot spot falling off evenly to the beam edges. This setting is useful for normal stage lighting purposes where beams are overlapped to achieve an even cover. Flat adjustment provides a visually even light beam suitable for gobo projection. The question is can this be done in other profiles with the necessary adjustments on them to merge sharply focused beams together rather than messing with the shutters and wire cutters? Reaches for nearest Francis Reid book - he mentions that some profiles have this adjustment but doesn't expand to say if the hot spot setting is any use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulears Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 Sure - you can have soft or hard beam edges, and a gobo sharp or blurry - but the point of the bifocal was that you could have a hard shutter to mask of the pros edge, then a soft edge on the other side to blend with the next one, and if you were inclined, you could mask the stage edge off with a hard shutter, but gently remove the upper part where it meets a header, or whatever. Peaky/flat can do nice things with the beam edges, but cannot do both to different areas of the beam, and this really useful feature was abandoned! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbuckley Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 A small number of tea pots became available in my area a couple of years back, and I rediscovered all over again the wonder of this fixture. A peerless fixture. A pile of 763s and my life would be complete :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulears Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 764's could be better for the soft edges (he he) I've got just one of those left, but a few 264's in the store still. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junior8 Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 Use frost? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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