Flange issues

[LukeyD]

I'm trying to get an insert out of a CPT F206 bearing, it refuses to budge in or out. We've tried soaking it in WD40 and hammering it upwards and downwards, we've even involved flying bars to life the base away from the insert.Does anyone have any experience dealing with this kind of problem and if so........help!!

Cheers Luke

[Brian]

WTF is a "CPT F206"?

 

The usual way to get recalcitrant bearings out is with a bearing puller.

[ninjadingle]

+1 - ????

 

Penetrating oil is usually good - we used to use a product called "Eezit" - soak it and leave for half an hour or so, then use a 2 / 3 leg slide hammer?

[kerry davies]

Challenge Power Transmission or CPT are, surprisingly, makers of bearings for power transmission. Odd that but even odder to find someone beating them with hammers rather than using the proprietary tools and actually downright weird that BR should be the recipient of a query on them.

 

What machinery is being discussed? On most seized bearings the only solution is judicious application of heat or liquid gases to freeze the shaft to reduce size. Mind you, most bearings that have been hammered at can be cut off because they are by then knackered anyway.

 

The UCF 206 is a four hole flange assembly on a 30 mm shaft using M10 bolts where the insert is the UC 206 and the housing is the F206 and it weighs 1.1 kg. Not that I have a bl00dy clue what it is all about.

[brainwave-generator]

we've even involved flying bars to life the base away from the insert

 

I don't know what I would do, but I wouldn't do that.

 

Assuming it's a counterweight system, the whole concept of counterweight is that the weight in the arbor is the same as the weight as the load. As such if using a counterweight system to prize a stuck item away from another, as soon as it becomes unstuck, the arbor will be heavier than the load and gravity will help it reach the floor rather quickly, whilst whatever you unstuck shoots up to the grid at the same speed.

 

If it's motorised it won't be quite as dramatic, but it will be a competition of what gives up first - the stuck item or the fly system. If it's the latter you might still get a spectacular ending.

 

In short it's never a good plan to lift anything unless you know what load it will put on the fly system.

 

If it's really really stuck it might be time to skip it and get another one. Whatever you've done to get it stuck will probably happen again anyway.

[J Pearce]

And whatever you've done to get it unstuck has probably trashed it in my experience of bearings.

[Brian]

The UCF 206 is a four hole flange assembly on a 30 mm shaft using M10 bolts where the insert is the UC 206 and the housing is the F206 and it weighs 1.1 kg.

Ah, thanks. Your Google Foo was stronger than mine.

 

So as I read it the OP is trying to remove the bearing from the flange?

 

The flange looks like a casting to me so they'll need to be a bit careful. Hairline stress fractures and all that. The bearing will certainly need to be replaced given what they've done to it so far. Should've used the right tools in the first place.

[ramdram]

Or got a "Man-who-can" in. Costs cash but probably worth it for time saved...and cost of new cast iron flange doodad.

[Sam Jelfs]

Thats a friction fit bearing - you need a hydraulic press to get that out, going to need a good couple of tonne I would think. Take it to your friendly local mechanic, they should have a press used for doing wheel hub bearings etc.

[tomscott]

I've had a brief look at what I think is the bearing assembly your trying to part and if I've got it right its an eccentric lock bearing - there should be a ring (collar) on one side of the bearing with 1 or 2 grub screws in it - something like this?

 

Loosen the grub screws off then in order to release the bearing from the shaft you need to use a punch to twist the ring off the eccentric, then and only then will you release the shaft from the inner race of the bearing.

 

Trying to force it out will result in damage to the shaft. If its seized then you'll have to drill the collar and split it with a (sharp!) cold chisel, or use heat if you can get it to the gas. To remove bearing from the pillow block you'll need to twist it out, there'll be two recesses in order to do this. But to be honest when you buy a new bearing you'll probably find it just as easy to replace the whole thing.

 

I've spent many an hour removing these types of bearing as I used to be an agricultural engineer where lots of those types of bearings are used!