gsarchive Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Can anybody advise me on the correct order of Bolt.washer,Spring washers etc used for fitting a hook clamp to a generic lantern. A colloeagu has just been asked to do Bolt, washer, trunnion arm, hex nut, hook clamp, spring washer, wing nit, Comments Please Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gareth A Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 From a previous thread http://www.blue-room.org.uk/index.php?showtopic=46730&st=0&p=387662&hl=+hook%20+clamp&fromsearch=1entry387662 Bolt, washer, lantern yoke, washer, hook clamp, washer, spring washer, wing nut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ynot Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 We have done this before, so mods may well like to merge this with the older topic once found. However the answer is in many cases down to preference, as some people have different ideas. On lanterns without threaded yokes I would do the following: Bolt : washer : yoke : washer : hex nut : washer : hook clamp : washer : spring washer : wing nut. On lanterns (eg Strand Prelude etc) with a threaded yoke, I'd exclude the two above italicised components. The reason I personally advocate the hex nut in between the unthreaded yoke and clamp is to provide us with something solid to tighten the wing nut to - up a ladder trying to focus without that solidity and trying to tighten without having to use tools is a pain. Others will say they prefer hex nuts or even Nylok hex nuts instead of a wing nut, and on long installs, that's probably best, but on a rig that gets changed regularly I prefer the wing nut option for ease. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashley R Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 A colloeagu has just been asked to do Bolt, washer, trunnion arm, hex nut, hook clamp, spring washer, wing nit, May I ask what on earth are the following items: and why are they there? trunnion arm hex nut And yes the arrangement Gareth has said is right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ynot Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 May I ask what on earth are the following items: and why are they there? trunnion armhex nuttrunnion - another name for the yokehex nut - er, a standard 10mm (or 12mm) nut that has, well six sides, hence the term 'hex'...And yes the arrangement Gareth has said is right.Well, as I said above, it is VERY much down to personal preference - I'd go as far as to say there isn't a 'right' way at all... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulears Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 I'm not certain this actually has a standard solution. The version where the bolt is permanently connected to the yoke with the nut means the thing doesn't get lost, and up the top of a ladder makes it easier to drop off the lantern, leaving the clamp on the bar, without dropping the bolt and the other bits onto the floor. If somebody has used either system, and it lets me tighten it up so it doesn't move, that's great. When lots of yokes had threaded holes, then the bolt would be essentially captive using the version Gareth links to - but if the hole is oversized, you need two hands. Being able to have enough friction to allow movement, yet keep it on one place is the aim - so the spring washer helps here. However, in my own venue plenty of kit is horribly hung - with whatever bits were 'findable' when it went up - which could be bolt and a rusty nut - not a washer or wing nut, let along a spring washer in sight. A real pain in the bum of course, but new kit is done properly, because the clamp came with the right bits. In the case of lighter weight lanterns, doing it the correct way can also leave the lantern too prone to move. Removing the washer between yoke and clamp can give useful extra friction, when faced with obstructions such as tabs or cloths that can rub going past, and knock them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Just to throw another opinion into the mix... For lighter units like PAR cans I prefer... Bolt - Washer - Yoke - Thick Nylon Washer - Hook Clamp - Washer - Spring Washer - Nyloc With a bit of practice you can set the right amount of friction so that you can point the darned thing and it stays where you want without having to tighten anything up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seano Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Without wanting to enter the fray, can I just add something almost relevant...If you're not going to be happy with it finger tight, DONT use a wingnut. Putting wingnuts on things that are going to be tightened with a spanner is stupid stupid stupid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashley R Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 I stick a wingnut on regardless, I find it much easier to do up one end with the spanner, and hold the other with my fingers rather than fuffing around with 2 spanners. but that could be just me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 ...I find it much easier to do up one end with the spanner, and hold the other with my fingers...Or use a 'Headlock'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono9691 Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Ohhh for f**k sake........really? What Gareth said, personal preference regarding nylok, wing nut or hex nut depending on intended application for temporary or permenant installation. :) Reverse for half couplers.Half coupler with bolt, washer, goes thru yoke, washer, spring washer, nylok or hex. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WiLL Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 gaffa tape...... and hope. (joke, do not rig lanterns with hope.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono9691 Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Prayer and gaffa :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxjones2000 Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 mehh I only use gaffa for them snazzy wobbling ones which are proper heavy - Gaffa's well expensive. I always find a bit of LX tape seems to hold them lighter (ba dum tiss) ones nicely.... http://www.blue-room.org.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif Back on topic, I've always been taught Bolt, Washer, Yoke, Washer, Clamp, Washer, Spring Washer, Nye lock, but I guess as everyone else says it's down to personal preference. As long as it holds it, that's all that matters! Just added that so that my post wasn't completely stupid! http://www.blue-room.org.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WiLL Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 I spurn all use of nylocks on lanterns in my venue as our rig changes completely from show to show as it's a flexible venue (in the round one production, end on the next, traverse the next etc..) and all our bars are fixed so using wing-nuts means one less tool to have on a lanyard. I also rarely use a washer between yoke and clamp as when I tighten up a wing-nut after focussing I like the lantern to stay exactly where it was when I tightened it. I'm not keen on any play between clamp and yoke which I find the addition of a washer can give. So normally for me it's bolt, washer, yoke, clamp, washer, spring washer, wing-nut.... gaffa.... and hope. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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