Tying off

[chris]

Just a quickie chaps, when tying off a hemp bar what is your preffered tie off. I go for a figure of 8 then the cheeky twist across the top.

I just saw someone do twists on top, bottom and then top again, a bit over the top I personally thought. And you?

[si_cole]

Just a quickie chaps, when tying off a hemp bar what is your preffered tie off. I go for a figure of 8 then the cheeky twist across the top.

I just saw someone do twists on top, bottom and then top again, a bit over the top I personally thought. And you?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Same as you Chris, the ropes lock off to each other and I have never had a problem before. Seen people do exactly the same thing you describe and its a pain in the hoop when you are trying to lower a bar in a quick scene change!

 

Si

[Bryson]

I always did: Around the cleat from the bottom. Figure 8, cheeky twist.

 

Around the bottom of the cleat and another cheeky twist if it wasn't used again until tomorrow.

 

But it's a while since I was a flyman

[gareth]

Pretty much the same, really. On the rare occasion that I find myself having to tie off a hemp line, it just gets a figure of 8 around the cleat, then another with a twisty-loopy-bit in the top (there's probably a very technical name for that!). If it's under a particularly heavy load, it'll get another twisty-loopy-bit on another figure of 8.

[Ben...]

I always did:  Around the cleat from the bottom.  Figure 8, cheeky twist. 

 

Around the bottom of the cleat and another cheeky twist if it wasn't used again until tomorrow.

 

But it's a while since I was a flyman

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

That's the one I'd go for. There's an animation here;

http://131.230.57.1/knots/h_cleat.htm

(starting out the other way up, obviously :unsure: )

[DSA]

Yes, that is also the way I have been taught to do it.

 

David

[andy_s]

I always did:  Around the cleat from the bottom.  Figure 8, cheeky twist. 

 

Around the bottom of the cleat and another cheeky twist if it wasn't used again until tomorrow.

 

But it's a while since I was a flyman

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

That's the one I'd go for. There's an animation here;

http://131.230.57.1/knots/h_cleat.htm

(starting out the other way up, obviously :unsure: )

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

What a great movie! it introduces us to the extremely useful technical terms "Once Around", "Crossover", and "Half Hitch".

[Chris Higgs]

With a laid rope the lines pass to the left of the cleat, under it and around once, then two figure eights with a tuck put under the final turn. (BS7906:1, ABTT Code of Practice for Flying)

The final cinch (it's not really a half hitch) should be made so the dead end falls from the right side of the cleat.

If the cleat is set on the rail at an angle, ensure the line goes under the cleat without pushing against the top.

[Stuart Basson]

With a laid rope the lines pass to the left of the cleat, under it and around once, then two figure eights with a tuck put under the final turn. (BS7906:1, ABTT Code of Practice for Flying)

The final cinch (it's not really a half hitch) should be made so the dead end falls from the right side of the cleat.

If the cleat is set on the rail at an angle, ensure the line goes under the cleat without pushing against the top.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

Chris, is there a scientific reason for going round the left of the cleat? Our lads tend to go round the right, probably since they'd have been trained by left-handed me, but I'd be interested to know if the twist of the rope, or anything, demands going round the left for safety reasons.

 

Going once round before doing any figure of eight as described above is worth flagging up, since I understand it can help prevent the rope wearing on any heads of bolts used to fix cleats to a fly rail.

[robloxley]

You could use smooth-headed coach bolts?

[Stuart Basson]

You could use smooth-headed coach bolts?

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Indeed - the preferred method of fixing in our place now, where once there was a random mix of coach bolts whacked in both ways round, coach screws and bits of studding with nuts on each end. If for any reason you're unable to have any influence on the chosen method of fixing the "once round" might help protect any rope you have to tie off to someone else's cleat.

[Chris Higgs]

Because you are keeping with the natural lay of the rope and taking the load on a full circle turn not a twisted line.

[Stuart Basson]

Because you are keeping with the natural lay of the rope and taking the load on a full circle turn not a twisted line.

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Thanks for that :blink:

[V*L Ben]

I always did:  Around the cleat from the bottom.  Figure 8, cheeky twist. 

 

Around the bottom of the cleat and another cheeky twist if it wasn't used again until tomorrow.

 

But it's a while since I was a flyman

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

That's the one I'd go for. There's an animation here;

http://131.230.57.1/knots/h_cleat.htm

(starting out the other way up, obviously :blink: )

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Speaking as a sailor, that is the correct way to do it & its the best way for the rope.

[edark]

I was taught, (Rose Bruford), and use, the 'round once, then two figure eights then the cheeky twist.' Maybe a second twist if its a heavy load. (obviously never exceeding the safe working load)

Going round on the first pass seems to be easier, especially on heavy lifts.

But as important as the method of tying off, is the 'keeping tidy'. Never leave any rope on the deck. I always loop the excess rope in lage coils around the cleet. If there 'aint any cleet left, I tuck the large coils of rope between the wall and the line.

 

Whilst on this subject, am I right in saying safe lifting weight for one person is 25kg or 23kg for multiple lifts?