Need Help w/ DCX2496 Crossover & Sound Issue, thanks!

[hollywd901]

My Setup: 2 Powered Mackie SRM450s for my tops, 2 Horn-Loaded T-39 Subs powered by an amp, a Behringer DCX-2496 Crossover, Denon 2-Ch DJ Mixer, Macbook w/ Serato...

 

My Problems: Had this setup sounding great for about 7 months with help from alot of people to get my settings, crossovers, connections just right, but recently I started noticing a sudden spike or pop (like static) very sporadic that would be an instantaneous spike on the input meters of my crossover, just a real short split second burst that would happen say about every 30-50 seconds...just a quick pop like 2 levels of green on my dcx crossover input meter would light up and you would hear the crack/pop sound in the speakers...so I did some troubleshooting and thought that I had it isolated...I ordered a brand new crossover and lost all my old settings...so my problems are actually

2-in-1...first problem is obvious, the pop/crack sound which is still present, second problem is that my system doesn't sound the sound as it did before I lost my settings and I can't figure out or pinpoint what is the issue...I'll start with the first issue:

 

Issue #1 -- New Crossover, Still getting intermittent Pop/Crack Burst through speakers on intervals of say every 30-60 seconds...only thing upstream of the crossover is my Denon DJ Mixer and My Laptop...any ideas?? also, I notice on this crossover the same thing, when I hear the crack, both input meters on the crossover light up 2 levels of green for a split second that I hear the burst, same thing was happening on the suspect crossover that I thought went bad...I think I just invested in another crossover when that probably wasn't the problem at all...I swore I had isolated the problem...however not the case, any input would be appreciated...????

 

Issue #2 -- My Settings...when I received the new crossover I had to re-do it to try to match it up to the old one b/c somehow I lost everything within the crossover...the previous Behringer DCX2496 Crossover was bought used, the one I just received is brand new...I thought for sure I had all the settings the same but the system sounds different, I'll explain starting with my Current Settings on the DCX-2496:

 

From my mixer I have left output going into input A on Crossover and right output going into input B on Crossover; Input C is not being used;

For outputs on my crossover I have output 1 assigned to left top Mackie, output 2 assigned to right top Mackie, and output 3 assigned to my Subs (Summed A+B Input on Crossover) here are the specific details for Outs 1-3:

 

Output 1: L/R 48 Off Output 2: L/R 48 Off Output 3: L/R 48 L/R48

124 HZ 19.4khz 124 HZ 19.4khz 45 HZ 124 HZ

 

...also have a Limiter set for Subs @ -19.6 with 4000ms ,,, this limiter was set at beginning of year when everything was working great and it worked fine for months...a quick question...if I'm using same setup and I'll I changed was this new crossover unit replacing my old one, shouldn't this limiter setting still work...I got this limiter setting the proper way using voltmeter at beginning of my setup...a new crossover or new settings shouldn't change my limiter setting, correct? or not?? thanks

 

ok, so here goes the rest of my issues: my old settings I used L/R 24 slope and the crossover point for my mackies wasn't 124Hz I do believe, but more like 90-100...but funny thing is, is that these new settings, give me more clean bass, although my mackies don't sound quite as loud as before...and I'm noticing that I have to turn up my mixer levels a bit more, gains, and channel faders to achieve the same volume as on my previous crossover setup...the bass is cleaner and a bit more punchy with these settings which I kinda like, but mackies are a bit muddy or muffled... and when I watch channel 3 on my crossover (sub out) the meter hardly ever rises and I haven't seen the limiter light kick on yet, which is odd, b/c on my previous crossover, I would see certain hip-hop songs kick on that limiter light from time to time, this new unit the level on crossover hardly goes past the first green...does anyone have a clue what could be going on...I'm pretty sure no gain settings were set on the previous crossover (input or output) but then again, I did buy it used and this problem makes no sense...any and all input would be greatly appreciated...I"m so lost once again, just when it all sounded great this hits me in the face...

 

...and last but not least...dumb question but for my subs output...will the clip light come on, if for some reason my limiter wasn't working,,,say the limiter was set wrong, should I still get a clip on the output meter for my own visual safety?? thank you,,,I'm trying to solve problems and protect my system that once sounded decent...please help..and thank you!!

-Brian

hollywd901@aol.com

[hollywd901]

...can anyone out there at all help, I see 78 views with not one reply...I'm in need of desperate help with this dcx-2496...thank you!

[david.elsbury]

In fairness, you posted a little over 12 hours ago... be patient, maybe the right person to reply hasn't come along yet :)

(I tend to read everything that gets posted, to increase my knowledge etc, but if I can't help out then I won't post - no point in cluttering the discussion :))

David

[timsabre]

Well the obvious question for locating the cracking sound, does it happen if the mixer isn't connected; or if the laptop isn't connected?

 

This type of noise is often caused by bad solder joints in a unit's power supply, usually on a voltage regulator which is constantly heating up and cooling down.

[Simon Lewis]

You can also get regular clicking noises from the mains power supply, caused by such items as dirty, arcing contacts on thermostats. It's worth checking this aspect out before replacing any

other items!

 

 

Simon

[hollywd901]

it's downstream of the crossover,,,either the mixer or the laptop, I'm feeling it's the mixer somehow,,,do you guys mean the power supply as in mixer power supply??? thank you,,

----also, anyone able to help with the dcx-2496 crossover questions in my post...those are really bothering me...thank you!!

-- My mixer is being checked out by an electronics shop today...

[Simon Lewis]

do you guys mean the power supply as in mixer power supply???

 

It is a possibility, but I was referring to the mains electricity you are plugged into. If you use this rig in different venues and you get the click, then it's ikely to be a problem in your gear. If you are in a fixed venue, I woudl check out the mains as well.

[hollywd901]

I'm in a fixed Venue

 

OK, mixer in shop to hopefully find the popping problem...now on to my 2nd major problem...hopefully someone can help iron this out for me in simple terms or directions...thanks...here is my problem:

 

Issue #2 -- My Settings...when I received the new crossover I had to re-do it to try to match it up to the old one b/c somehow I lost everything within the crossover...the previous Behringer DCX2496 Crossover was bought used, the one I just received is brand new...I thought for sure I had all the settings the same but the system sounds different, I'll explain starting with my Current Settings on the DCX-2496:

 

From my mixer I have left output going into input A on Crossover and right output going into input B on Crossover; Input C is not being used;

For outputs on my crossover I have output 1 assigned to left top Mackie, output 2 assigned to right top Mackie, and output 3 assigned to my Subs (Summed A+B Input on Crossover) here are the specific details for Outs 1-3:

 

Output 1: L/R 48 Off Output 2: L/R 48 Off Output 3: L/R 48 L/R48

124 HZ 19.4khz 124 HZ 19.4khz 45 HZ 124 HZ

 

...also have a Limiter set for Subs @ -19.6 with 4000ms ,,, this limiter was set at beginning of year when everything was working great and it worked fine for months...a quick question...if I'm using same setup and I'll I changed was this new crossover unit replacing my old one, shouldn't this limiter setting still work...I got this limiter setting the proper way using voltmeter at beginning of my setup...a new crossover or new settings shouldn't change my limiter setting, correct? or not?? thanks

 

ok, so here goes the rest of my issues: my old settings I used L/R 24 slope and the crossover point for my mackies wasn't 124Hz I do believe, but more like 90-100...but funny thing is, is that these new settings, give me more clean bass, although my mackies don't sound quite as loud as before...and I'm noticing that I have to turn up my mixer levels a bit more, gains, and channel faders to achieve the same volume as on my previous crossover setup...the bass is cleaner and a bit more punchy with these settings which I kinda like, but mackies are a bit muddy or muffled... and when I watch channel 3 on my crossover (sub out) the meter hardly ever rises and I haven't seen the limiter light kick on yet, which is odd, b/c on my previous crossover, I would see certain hip-hop songs kick on that limiter light from time to time, this new unit the level on crossover hardly goes past the first green...does anyone have a clue what could be going on...I'm pretty sure no gain settings were set on the previous crossover (input or output) but then again, I did buy it used and this problem makes no sense...any and all input would be greatly appreciated...I"m so lost once again, just when it all sounded great this hits me in the face...

 

...and last but not least...dumb question but for my subs output...will the clip light come on, if for some reason my limiter wasn't working,,,say the limiter was set wrong, should I still get a clip on the output meter for my own visual safety?? thank you,,,I'm trying to solve problems and protect my system that once sounded decent...please help..and thank you!!

[BigKev]

Is it an option to use the old crossover? If the initial problems of clicking are found upstream then theres no need to change it out?

 

Also, with regards to the clicking noise, I will echo whats already been said, as laptop power supplies get older they tend to generate more noise, if you are not using an interface then this will enter the cound system. When the mixer returns and the noise is still there, plug in the laptop without the mains adapter plugged into the mains and see if its still there.

 

Sorry if this reply does nothing but further frustrate!

 

 

[hollywd901]

Yes, old crossover is an option but I lost all the settings and they are both the same crossovers, that's why I'm starting from scratch with this...and I use macbook with Serato SL-1 interface...computer is not that old.

 

Having a lot of problem with my system as you can read previously about in my post for it to all make sense...but in a nutshell I have a new Behringer DCX-2496 Crossover to replace my old one that went bad and I lost settings,,,new system doesn't seem as loud...and I'm thinking I had Input/Output Gains possibly set on the old one...

--However, I know nothing about setting the gain structure and I read how confusing it all is...I need someone to walk me through this in a simple way if possible...is there anyone out there that can help me or tell me if I even need the gains set?? thank you !!!

[cedd]

From memory the DCX starts up in 3 way mode, so LL MM HH as the 3 outputs. Your first step is to try and find a preset that's LL MH MH - - (difficult to write, I mean mid and high both going to outputs 3 and 4, nothing going to 5 and 6). Either that or find an empty preset and work from scratch.

I'll mention at this point, it's MUCH easier having a laptop connected. Well worth the hassle of borrowing one from a friend if you haven't got one that'll talk to it. The DCX is a great piece of kit to use, but without the laptop it's a pig to navigate. Then all you need to do is set your one crossover frequency to the right one.

 

Whilst it's difficult to suss properly from your description, I reckon you're trying to use it in 3 way mode rather than 2 way.

 

And sorry to say, if I'd seen inputs A and B with spurious noise, but it not occuring on input C which wasn't connected to anything, I'd have been looking straight to the mixer as the cause. Or indeed the cabling between. Noise on one input could have been the crossover, but common noise over 2 inputs would point to something in the PSU or a common component on the PCB -which I'd expect to be linked to input C as well, so I'd have expected to see it there too. As it wasn't, the mixer or something on that side of the crossover looks like a likely candidate.

 

Got to say though, you were very quick sending it to the shop for repair. Did you PROVE the mixer was making the noise? Plug it into a different amp? Try different cabling? Try it with no laptop connected? All of these are good logical steps to take before considering repair.

[mervaka]

the nearest setting to LLMHMH would probably be LHLHLH, but I'd say its easier to just rearrange the back into LLMMHH?

[cedd]

Yeah, if it hasn't got one (mine's out in the garage and I'm not going out to look now) then turn off the low pass filter on the mid outputs and you achieve the same thing.

[hollywd901]

ok I went by the manual and have it set to LH LH LH

I have channel 1 output coming in from input A going to left powered Mackie for my top: I have channel 2 output coming in from input B going to my right powered Mackie top: and I have channel 3 output Sum of A+B going to my amp and then my subs...

 

is there anything wrong with the way I have this set?? I believe I referred to the crossover manual to get this configuration,,,

[cedd]

If what you've described is true, you've definately got something wrong!

 

Channel 1 output is low (needs to go to a sub), you've got it going to a Mackie top cab.

Channel 2 output is high (needs to go to a top) - this is what you've done

Channel 3 is low and needs to go to a sub.

 

You've sussed that LH LH LH refers to the crossover for each output in turn? so;

1 2 3 4 5 6

L H L H L H

 

What you've descibed will sound very odd if it's what you've done.

 

With that setup, I'd do;

 

1 - Left sub

2 - Left top

3 - Right sub

4 - Right top

 

You can either keep it with stereo subs like that, or sum A and B to both outputs 1 and 3. To be honest it might be easier staying stereo unless you've only got one cable to the sub amp.