dbuckley Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 Of course, just like stagecraft has industry bodies, so does knots - see the International Guild of Knot Tyers web site. My chosen (actually, inherited) knot book is "The Knot Book" by Geoffrey Budworth, which I suspect is long out of print, but he has a few other titles available. He was a co-founder of the above-mentioned guild. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathanhill Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 My chosen (actually, inherited) knot book is "The Knot Book" by Geoffrey Budworth, which I suspect is long out of print, Still available... ISBN-13: 978-0716020844 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackBrienLX Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 Slightly OT but one of the most useful things I've learnt is how to set up a simple double purchase system and / or friction knots. Extremely useful for rigging and de-rigging a Prosc as a ground rigger, and usually means you only need one climber and one ground rigger per side which leaves others free to do other things.. Jack Edit: I also have a very good App for my Iphone, called knots as far as I can remember. Has over 100 in there I think now, with colour diagrams etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamharman Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 If its more than a few seconds quicker (and nobody is *that* pushed for time), the person tying the knots needs more practice. ;) I can tie the knots quick enough, I've had enough practice teaching knots to scouts.I just used to find it more convenient to clip things on. As the only permanent tech in a small venue, the "help" was generally anybody I could drag out of the office / bar/ cleaner, etc so knots and ropes wasn't really part of their job and it took them a lot longer to untie a knot than it took me to tie it. Back on topic, as everybody else says a bowline and clove hitch will cover pretty much anything. At scouts we also teach them reef knot, sheet bend, sheepshank, double fishermans, stopper knots, monkeys fist, figure of 8 loop, square/diagonal/sheer lashings, eye/short/back splicing. If they're really keen I get the book out to refresh my memory and do some more..... The other one that I use quite a bit is the Italian (or munter) hitch. I use it on the safety line when they're abseiling but it would do equally well for lowering heavy weights. I can easily hold a 12 stone kid with one hand when they panic and let go of he abseil rope! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timperrett Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 I tend to use bowline and clove hitch and maybe a figure eight, but rarely. This seems to get me through most things! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Takeiteasy Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 figure of eight for me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HolyPhish Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 Slightly OT but related to learning "upside-down, inside-out, eyes closed with someone talking to you" method of tying knots. Take a scrap piece of rope swimming with you. The rope becomes unbearable and difficult to handle, it swells and compresses and generally does not behave as it should. Practice your knots while treading water. Trying to concentrate on not drowning while tying knots is a fun* way to learn under pressure. I know this isn't a conventional method of learning but it does work! DISCLAIMER: Do do this exercise if you can't swim! *It was for me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrummerJonny Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 DISCLAIMER: Do do this exercise if you can't swim! err... might want to re-read that :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamtastic3 Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 The problem I'm getting a couple of times guys is when I just can't get someone to help me take down a mover and can only just foot a ladder. I can't get a mover down from a non movable rig. If I can do it the pulley way I would, hence me asking about the knot to use as I can get up to the mover via Zarges, but it's too heavy to lift down the ladder. So, which knot? Maybe one that incorporates a hoop or a large carabiner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kitlane Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 I teach my students overhand knot, figure eight, figure eight on a bight, reef knot, bowline, clove hitch, round turn and two half hitches, rolling hitch, sheet bend, sheep shank(not that useful but I like it) and variations on the double slip reef knot (i.e. bow) Must haves are (I think) bowline and clove hitch. Truckers hitch can be useful. It's good to know how to coil a rope neatly. Timber hitch may be useful. Blood knot is good if you have to join monofilament (fishing line) together Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeStoddart Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Another vote for clove hitch and bowline Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
threewireguy Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 The problem I'm getting a couple of times guys is when I just can't get someone to help me take down a mover and can only just foot a ladder. I can't get a mover down from a non movable rig. If I can do it the pulley way I would, hence me asking about the knot to use as I can get up to the mover via Zarges, but it's too heavy to lift down the ladder. So, which knot? Maybe one that incorporates a hoop or a large carabiner If a Genie or other small bucket lift is available, I would pursue that route first. It's safer for you and the mover. If you really have to go with the pulley system, I'd personally tie a clove hitch finished with a half hitch around the carabiner and use that. This will give you the most freedom with your hands for balance on the ladder as you detach the fixture from the batten and lower it to the ground. IMHO. TWG In addition to the bowline and clove hitch (I've personally never had to tie a bend of any kind but that doesn't mean they aren't useful, I just prefer to overestimate how much line I'll need), I'd try to find some time to practice tying off to a cleat, especially if you are working a show call on a hemp system or do a lot of hang and focus on counterweight systems. I would also recommend learning how to tie a bowline one handed with each hand. It takes practice but it is well worth it when you're up in the air and have only one hand free to tie a knot. Lastly, though I never learned this one myself, a buddy of mine always kept a decent length of light cord with a monkeyfist on one end for tossing over beams, etc. in order to pass a span set or a line over a point that was a bit awkward or out of reach. TWG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytelford Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 Hi Technical People, Im in the process of applying for theatre technician jobs, however in my last interview I fell flat on my face when I got asked to tie a clove hitch, so that im prepared what knots do you guys think I should know? Any help will be graciously received (: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GridGirl Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 Clove hitch and bowline are the two I would use most - apart from a regular bow when tying cloths onto battens! I guess being able to tie a reef knot isn't a bad idea, although it has limited use in theatre. A figure-of-eight or other "stopper" knot is useful to know, and a sheetbend might also be valuable - but I prefer the carrick bend myself (although I've found that not a lot of people know that one). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brainwave-generator Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 Clove hitch and bowline are the two I would use most - apart from a regular bow when tying cloths onto battens! I guess being able to tie a reef knot isn't a bad idea, although it has limited use in theatre. A figure-of-eight or other "stopper" knot is useful to know, and a sheetbend might also be valuable - but I prefer the carrick bend myself (although I've found that not a lot of people know that one). If you are going to do a stopper knot, a fisherman's knot is better than a Fig-8. Double fisherman's with most rope but on 6mm or less go triple. Clove hitch is a very useful knot as you can use it not only as a knot, but also as a progress-capture device for hoisting. You can also use it to slowly release the rope too. I use it for lowering lights by myself if I can't move the truss. Bowline is the 'riggers knot', only 60% efficient but very useful as it doesn't tighten under load. So even if you lift something really heavy it's easy to undo. If you use a Fig-8 you'll understand why that is a good thing, since the Fig-8 will tighten and become hard to undo. The Fig-8 is more efficient however, and you can do a 'follow through Fig 8' to allow you to tie through something. Knowing knot efficiency is fairly important. Like everything for lifting you should know the SWL of your rope. The efficiency is basically giving you new SWL of the rope once the knot is on it. So a rope capable of lifting 20kN is reduced to just 12kN when it has a bowline in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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