parky58 Posted November 9, 2010 Share Posted November 9, 2010 I am currently PAT testing equipment at a local arts centre and tomorrow we will be dropping the trussing which has PAR cans driven from 2 Soundlab GO18VA 4 channel DMX dimmer packs. One of the channels has a lamp stuck on, probably due to a duff triac which I want to replace whilst the gear is lowered. Has anyone any experience with this model and can advise me what triac is fitted (assuming it uses triacs). I've tried to find out on the web but to no avail. I would like to pick one up as I pass CPC on my way there. Thanks, Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinE Posted November 9, 2010 Share Posted November 9, 2010 Probably depends on what the chinese factory had in stock on the day!!! A BT137X-600D from RS will work in these. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik10_4 Posted November 9, 2010 Share Posted November 9, 2010 Has anyone any experience with this model and can advise me what triac is fitted (assuming it uses triacs). I've tried to find out on the web but to no avail. I would like to pick one up as I pass CPC on my way there. Thanks, Steve Had same issue and I used a BTA16-600B which worked fine. Plenty available on eBay. Erik Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parky58 Posted November 9, 2010 Author Share Posted November 9, 2010 Thanks for that chaps. Either will obviously do so I will pick up a couple of bta16-600b's in the morning ( BT137's out of stock. Cheers, Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leonisa Posted November 17, 2016 Share Posted November 17, 2016 Hi, I am using this unit in a domestic environment. Great to find this thread. A halogen lamp circuit on one of the channels blew - as has done many times before - but this time it blew the fuse on the channel, tripped the circuit breaker on the rack and tripped the circuit breaker on the consumer unit. After replacing the glass fuse on the rack the channel is stuck on so I will be replcing the triac as suggested. Should all the fuses / cb's stopped the triac from burning itself out and is the part number suggested rated higer so this won't happen again!?? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timsabre Posted November 17, 2016 Share Posted November 17, 2016 Should all the fuses / cb's stopped the triac from burning itself out and is the part number suggested rated higer so this won't happen again!?? No, fuses / circuit breakers will not protect the triac when a lamp blows. They do not act fast enough. Fitting a higher-rated triac is the only answer but this costs more so on cheap dimmers it isn't done. Not sure what is fitted at the factory so can't answer the 2nd question. Post the part number of the standard triac. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Allen Posted November 17, 2016 Share Posted November 17, 2016 As was suggested in earlier Triac replacement threads, always put in a higher rating triac. I recommend that the triac needs to be rated at four times the maximum load, providing you can physically fit the triac in. You need to check the specs for gate trigger and maximum voltage rating, plus insulated tabs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrV Posted November 17, 2016 Share Posted November 17, 2016 +1 on the issue of insulated tabs. If you get that wrong there is the potential (sorry!) to create an unsafe situation if the earth is at all doubtful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leonisa Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 Post the part number of the standard triac. It's an ST BTA16 600B so as others suggested. I replaced and works ok. My next task is to get this dimmer to work with GU10 Dimmable LED's from Philips - not the cheap unbranded ones. I have added this http://www.danlers.co.uk/additional-products/93-products/additional-products/295-resloade-load-resistor to a circuit of 4. All seemed to ok for a while dimming right down to 10% then after a week or so. It will now only come on at 70%+ ! Maybe I have done the triac in again.... Anyone tried to use this dimmer rack with LEDs. I appreciate the issue is that it's a trailing edge dimmer etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timsabre Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 Probably the resistive load has failed. Try putting an ordinary 60w filament bulb in place of the resistor. That's the only way you'll get halfway decent dimming with a triac dimmer (leading edge) . If you look on ebay there are trailing edge din rail DMX dimmers, 3 channel for about 25 pounds. These are really good for led dimming but will only do 250w of led per channel (that's quite a lot of led though) . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leonisa Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 Probably the resistive load has failed. Try putting an ordinary 60w filament bulb in place of the resistor. That's the only way you'll get halfway decent dimming with a triac dimmer (leading edge) . Before I got the resistive load on the channel I was testing with 1x50w Halogen and 3 x 5w LED replacements on the channel. That was steady. The resistive load says its 10W so that might not be enough. Since it went bad I replaced one of the LEDs back with a halogen and it's still misbehaving which is a bit of a worry. Makes me wonder if I have done some damage somewh If you look on ebay there are trailing edge din rail DMX dimmers, 3 channel for about 25 pounds. These are really good for led dimming but will only do 250w of led per channel (that's quite a lot of led though) . Unfortunately I need analogue 0-10V control. I know you can get 0-10v to DMX converters but it's all getting a bit messy there. What I could do with is a 4 channel dimmer that that takes in 0-10v control - a direct replacement for the soundlab that can do trailing edge. These are the GU10 replacements. They are very good. Just need to control them properly! http://www.screwfix.com/p/philips-gu10-led-warmglow-glass-reflector-lamps-345lm-900cd-4-6w-6-pack/7377p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timsabre Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 I'm yet to find any good theatre-style trailing edge dimmers apart from those DMX din-rail ones. Considering the rise of led this is a bit odd. I've ended up making some using a circuit I found on the net... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alistermorton Posted June 9, 2017 Share Posted June 9, 2017 Got a link, Tim? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timsabre Posted June 9, 2017 Share Posted June 9, 2017 Got a link, Tim? If you mean for my DIY dimmer it was basically this, using an Atmega processor to generate the PWM input based on a zero volt cross signal. I built it for our church which has an installation of Sylvania LED fixtures which did not dim properly on the paradim racks we had previously. It's now lovely silky dimming, except for the "snap on at 20%" problem when fading up from off. We fix this by having a "temporary off" state which holds the fixtures on at 5%, they are not lit at this level but the drivers are still powered so will fade up nicely. If there's interest I can post the actual circuits I used. This was the project under construction...http://www.sabretechnology.co.uk/image/dim.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerry Posted June 9, 2017 Share Posted June 9, 2017 I'm certainly interested in seeing the actual circuits you used and any other related information.How much did it cost per channel?CheersGerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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