erik10_4

An abridged User Manual for the ADJ TP-1201 (which I guess is the same unit with a different badge) can be found here .

Assuming the Pulsar's DIN cable is screened (I hadn't realised the 6-way came with a captive cable) it might be easier to just rewire the MicroPack's socket to Pulsar standard. Ideally you would rewire the DIN plug, but rewiring an 8-pin DIN, shifting the cable screen to the centre pin, can be quite a fiddly exercise. That's very true (in the past, I've had lots of fun (not!) doing delicate soldering on the DIN). It is easy to rewire inside the Pulsar Controller however as, if I remember correctly, the wires are on screw terminals.

Legacy Z88 consoles could be powered from +20v supply on pin 7 of the DIN connectors. Z88 dimmers could supply +20v or -20v on pin 7 depending on the controller used. Yes, sorry, it's the 4-channel (presumably also the 6-channel?) GG MicroPacks that produce a +15v output. I had forgotten that Z88 were +20v, though I seem to remember successfully controlling an old MicroPack from a Z88 Level-6 desk. What voltage does the Pulsar desk expect? According to a datasheet I still have the Pulsar desks operate from +14-25VDC in (on Pin 1), The output voltage however is from 0-10V at Din Channel Pins. Pulsar Datasheet

I don't know much about the green ginger 610 micro pack (never used one), but was it not a 6 Channel Dimmer (with 2 outlets per channel)? If so, I'm not sure whether a 12 Channel Controller would be needed by the OP. I do have a 6 Channel Pulsar Analog Controller (wired) and wondered whether it would be a simple task for the OP to re-arrange the wiring (internally and at the 8 pin Din plug) to meet the Green Ginger standard? Edit: I'm assuming here that the Green Ginger Pack does provide the +10V to power the controller rather than the controller being self powered.

Hi Sunray, Thanks for the reply. The video isn't mine, I can take no credit, I just posted the link to someone else's video. In terms of the the 4 digit number to program scenes, Although the video publisher does not mention it in that clip, on the Showtec desk you DO have to enter the 4 digit code also to put the console into 'Record Mode' before you start programming. This is just a security feature to protect the scenes or shows you have already programmed and stop some eager hobbit overwriting your hard work. This is important particularly if the desk is installed in a location where other people can play about when you are not around. In practice, once set in record mode, the Showtec desk will stay in this mode while you are programming any number of scenes and indeed,when to turn off and startup again. When you want to protect your programme and therefore come out of record mode you simply hold down the 'Record' button and tap 'Rec Exit'. The desk will then default to Record OFF on startup and you will have to re-enter the code to put back into Record mode. So, you will only have to enter the code when you have deliberately exited Record mode to protect your programme. Looking at the manual for the Cobra I'm pretty sure that it works exactly as I have described with the Showtec. I have used Elation, Showtec and Transcention badged versions of this desk; they all use the same chipset and therefore look & work exactly the same. Judging by the manual, I would be quite surprised if the Cobra was not exactly the same as all the other desks (other than there being a variety of 4 digit codes to enter Record mode). Similarly, looking at the picture of the Cobra desk in the manual, 'Rec Step' is shown as the top LED light on the left of the display so I'm sure this will work the same as the Showtec. The display will only indicate the current step when you are recording MULTIPLE scenes at the same time (on pressing the Record button in between scenes). The step numbers are NOT displayed once you have committed a series of scenes (sometimes called a 'chase') to a playback slider OR on actual playback. If you find I'm wrong on any of this please let me know. Editing can be a bit of a pain but with 4 pages each allowing 24 individual scenes it's possible to record 96 individual scenes on individual sliders without having the need to record multiple scenes to one slider and then use the 'Step' button to progress though the show. In practice, a show containing 50 or less lighting scenes changes takes me approximately half an hour max to programme so I rarely 'edit' and just re-programme the lot or re-programme(over-write) a particular scene slider when the Director has a great new idea for that scenes lighting In summary, I really do think the Cobra desk is exactly the same in features as the Showtec (and other aforementioned varieties of desk). Although I have used a few high end desks, for small venues without extensive lighting rigs, I actually think that this console is a good little performer for it's price, features and user learning curve. As, you say, it's only through practice that you get really familiar with any desk. Best Regards

Hi Sunray I'm not sure what you mean by "the programming shortcut is not available on the Cobra". Looking at the cobra manual online, and watching the video link I posted, the programming steps for a scene look identical to those used on the Showtec. Just for my knowledge base could you perhaps describe what you mean by the "programming shortcut" as I have always felt that programming this type of desk was, in itself, a pretty quick and simple process? Many Thanks

I'm in pretty much the same position [Cobra colourcontrol48], all I've done is download the manual and sit in front of the desk with a couple of fittings connected and run through the manual. As a follow up I've printed & laminated the page on programming which stays with the desk. I don't make any claims about being professional but I seem to get by. My first 2 shows were busked on a 24CH desk. The Cobra Colour Control seems also to be a differently badged version of The Showtec Showmaster models and programming is identical. You seem to be quite comfortable in programming it but, if not, you may also be interested in looking at the link I have posted above {Post #2].

The Showtec Showmaster 48 is just the big brother of the Showtec Showmaster 24 and the programming sequence is therefore identical (just more channels). video on programming the Showtec 24 will therefore be a very good start and will probably tell you all you need to know to use this very simple desk. Edit: There is also an overview of the controls

As others have said, my first suspicion would be connection between the D25 connector and dimmer packs. I have two Showtec Multi-exchangers (both bought second-hand) which have worked faultlessly with both Pulsar and Zero dimmer packs. The difficult bit when I purchased the first Showtec unit was building the interface cable between the D25 and the 8 pin din sockets as they obviously had to be wired differently to handle the different wiring protocols for Pulsar & Zero dimmers. Have you successfully used the Showtec unit with this brand of dimmer before? Do the dimmers previously interfaced with the Showtec share the same wiring/pinout/polarity protocol as the dimmers you are trying to operate now?

A simple way to check for/temporarily fix reverse polarity issues is to buy one of these for £5. Saves adapting any cable re-wiring or opening the unit if your console does not have a polarity switch and is worth carrying in the gig bag anyway for unexpected situations.

Have you tried reversing the DMX polarity? I seem to recall that some of these Soundlab units had the positive/negative DMX connections wired the opposite way around.

It's pretty straightforward to programme and operate really, depending on how you want to use it (whether you want scenes/chases etc.). I assume you have the manual? (programming is pretty much the same regardless of the showmaster version) but if not, you can download one here . The manual is very easy to follow with good examples. If there is anything specific you are unsure about however or you can't get things to work, give us as shout and describe your issues. Regards

It does have a backup battery Alister (Varta 3.6V soldered to the pcb if I remember correctly).

Umm, that's a bit odd. It would respond like that if the 'Full On' button (under the 'speed' slider) was depressed. Is this a new console or a used one? If used, the 'Full On' button may have stuck and you could try pressing it a few times to unlatch. I assume all sliders are in the down position?

This appears to be a switch mode power supply (SMPS) and the symptoms you describe suggest to me a malfunction of the SMPS 'feedback circuit' (just my guess). A fault in this portion would cause the supply to keep trying to start up, failing and trying again. The bad news is that it can be very difficult to identify/test faulty components in a SMPS unless there is visual evidence of failure (e.g bulging capacitors, blackened components etc.), particularly without a PCB schematic. In the picture as presented I can see nothing obvious. Sorry I can't give you any specific help.

I'm quite surprised Ian. I got a response from Graeme in about 4 days from my email and from there in, everything was really quick. I received the card and instructions for installation all free (including postage). The only bit I paid a very nominal fee for was the 5 pin XLR sockets. I'm delighted as, being an unpaid freelancer for voluntary/charity groups, and therefore having no budget other than my own pocket, I haven't been and wouldn't have ever been able to upgrade my Betapack to DMX. Sorry you were not so lucky.

A few weeks ago Blue room members were invited request a free DMX card for either Zero Betapack 1 or Betapack 2. Sometimes things seem too good to be true but as I had a analog only betapack 1 and was unable to consider upgrade I emailed Graeme at Ultrasoundlight (I think his username was 'graemeftv' but can't find that username on Blue-Room now) in the hope that I may get lucky. Anyway, Graeme responded, asking me how many Betapack 1's and asked whether I needed XLRs. He then sent me the card, backplate and XLRs which I have installed today. Everything works brilliantly....and it was free! It's not often that people do you a good turn like this so I thought it only fair that I give credit on here. Kind of restores faith in human nature in an age when so many seem money grabbing. Best Regards Erik