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Going through our lanterns


Humey

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my knowledge of lighting is limited when it comes to the lamp side of things so I thought I would check before I go through with anything..

 

The lantern collection where I am is made up of a lot of patt 23's and patt 123's, a few patt 743's and patt 263/264s. I am looking at getting them all with working lamps (they have been neglected for many years).

 

The problem is the previous technicians lamp cupboard it full of random lamps, some working, some not and seem to be all mainly T18 1000w. My question is, how improtant is it to follow the 'T' number when buying/replacing lamps. Also, what does the 'T' mean?

 

Any help would be appreciatted

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So the T rating relates to output and temperature??

 

T is Theatre Calss lamps, around 3200K and usually dont need fan cooling.

 

Some lamps may have an M variant, M for Display (!? Thats ANSI for you) which may have a different colour tempertaure, usually longer life span against lower lumen output tradeoff.

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Class T - Theatre Spotlight Type - was originally a compromise between a Class A.1 - high output, short life, minimum tilt angle and Class B.1 - lower output, longer life, larger tilt angle.

 

There was also a Class S - Cinema Studio Type

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how improtant is it to follow the 'T' number when buying/replacing lamps

Very important. Apart from the T deonting a theatre-class lamp, the number identifies a particular configuration of lamp - pin centres, pin dimensions, wattage, filament height, filament configuration, etc. You need to put the right lamp into the right lantern.

 

Your Patt.23s and 123s need a T17 or T24 ; Patt.743s need a T11 or T19 ; and the Patt.263s and 264s need a T15.

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how improtant is it to follow the 'T' number when buying/replacing lamps

Very important. Apart from the T deonting a theatre-class lamp, the number identifies a particular configuration of lamp - pin centres, pin dimensions, wattage, filament height, filament configuration, etc. You need to put the right lamp into the right lantern.

 

Your Patt.23s and 123s need a T17 or T24 ; Patt.743s need a T11 or T19 ; and the Patt.263s and 264s need a T15.

 

The Sparks Reference Guide shows that patt 123 take t18 or t26?

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The T17 was a P28s cap, and fits the original unmodified lanterns; lots of patt 23s and 123s were fitted with a lampholder upgrade kit to allow them to take a T18 with a GY9.5 cap.

 

as regards upgrading to 650W (T26), I don't know that this was much done, but I haven't used these types for a very long time, I guess establishments still using them might see the benefit of a higher wattage version, not least if the venue also has stocks of lanterns such as CCT Minuettes or Selecon Acclaims, as it reduces the types of lamps you need to stock.

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The Sparks Reference Guide shows that patt 123 take t18 or t26?

It will depend on what lamp holder is fitted to the lanterns. The older Patt. 23 and 123 units were fitted with a P28s lampholder (T1/T17/T24/T28). I believe that a retro-fit kit to upgrade to a GY9.5 lampholder was available (T17/T18/T25/T28).

 

Use the Blue Room wiki (link posted in an earlier post) to compare lamp types. The various lamps will all have differing output, colour temperature, rated life and base.

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