New amps/crossover for peavey system

[lonfire]

hi,

I've posted this on another thread but I thought I'd start is own thread and lay it out a bit better:

 

I've been checkin out the thomann stuff..

 

this is what I want to do:

T.Amp TA1050 II, Power Amplifier, 2 x 525 Watt 4Ohm for driving my subs (peavey impulse sub500 (320w RMS@4ohms)

 

T.Amp TA1400 II, power amplifier, 2x700 W/4Ohm, 2x450W/8Ohm for driving my full range peavey impulse 200s (320w RMS@8ohm)

 

and using a BEHRINGER - CX2310 SuperX Pro crossover..

 

does this sound like it would work as a setup?

 

are the values on the thomann site RMS or peak ratings?? it doesn't say.. and the amps seem a little cheap for them tobe RMS ratings..

 

thanks for the input guys

 

rgds

chris

[James]

Have you read the Power Amplifiers 101 from PSW's Study hall?

 

Personally I use the T.Amp amplifiers (1400 & 2400) and what you have there looks like a reasonable choice (Though Personally I might be tempted to use a TA2400 on your tops.)

 

James.

[lonfire]

hi,

cheers for that.. read that article.. some useful bits in there..

do you know what the RMS rating into 8ohms is out of the 2400 can't seem to find it.. I assume is around 700w? isn't that too much for my 320w rms speakers.. was going for around 500-600w.. suppose 700w isn't that much more..

 

found another interesting article about phase reversing one of your power amp channels to balance out the power draw on the amp.. anybody done this? worth doing?

http://www.prosoundweb.com/live/articles/d...amptricks.shtml

 

also I've run my peavey impulses off a 340w RMS amp (per channel) for a while and always thought I was at full power when the peak lights flash.. if I got a properly rated amp for the speakers will I notice much difference? or is it just a case that it will handle the peaks better? should I run it up till the peak lights flash.. or keep it bellow that??

 

cheers for all ya help guys!

 

thanks

chris

[Brian]

found another interesting article about phase reversing one of your power amp channels to balance out the power draw on the amp.. anybody done this? worth doing?

http://www.prosoundweb.com/live/articles/d...amptricks.shtml

 

Not worth the effort. In his example he goes from 540 watts to 650 watts which may sound a lot but it's only 0.8dB. To hear any difference you going to need a change approaching 3dB ie from 540W to 1000W !

[James]

hi,

cheers for that.. read that article.. some useful bits in there..

do you know what the RMS rating into 8ohms is out of the 2400 can't seem to find it.. I assume is around 700w?  isn't that too much for my 320w rms speakers..  was going for around 500-600w.. suppose 700w isn't that much more..

 

The TA 2400 gives 600W into 8 ohm, 1200W into 4 ohm.

 

also I've run my peavey impulses off a 340w RMS amp (per channel) for a while and always thought I was at full power when the peak lights flash.. if I got a properly rated amp for the speakers will I notice much difference? or is it just a case that it will handle the peaks better? should I run it up till the peak lights flash.. or keep it bellow that??

 

cheers for all ya help guys!

 

thanks

chris

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Personaly I wouldn't run an amplifier until the clip lights flashed, ever no matter what the power of the amp is as if the output of the amp is clipping that is a realy easy way of killing your speakers.

 

Some amplifiers light the clip lights before they actually clip - If you know that yours show a clip 3db before they actually clip then if you are careful running the amp so it's just kissing the clip light technicaly could be OK - BUT your have no headroom. I wouldn't risk it on one of my amps.

 

James

[david.elsbury]

...always thought I was at full power when the peak lights flash...

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Personaly I wouldn't run an amplifier until the clip lights flashed, ever no matter what the power of the amp is as if the output of the amp is clipping that is a realy easy way of killing your speakers.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Most amps (unless they have clip protection, e.g Lab Gruppen's) will clip and produce a square wave on the output. This is essentially pure DC. Sustained DC when applied to the speaker coil will cause the magnet to travel to both extremes and eventually, if it gets hot enough, will cause the windings in the coil to melt and ruin the driver in the speaker bins. Not a good look.

 

Also, check out this link regarding understanding decibels.

 

Hope this helps some

 

David :)