Happy Jack Posted November 15, 2009 Share Posted November 15, 2009 Good morning to all, Currently attempting a service on a few more 2nd hand Coemar Prospots. The units we picked up had been raided for spares, and while there is no issue sourcing replacements here or checking components @ board level (thanks KevinE) I have another issue. Several of the wiring looms have loose / broken connections, or are missing the female heads entirely. I've never had to look buy replacements for these and knowing exactly what to search for is proving to be a bit of a problem - this is a first for me. I'd like to make up my own. A quick trip to Farnell. They stock a selection of the Micro Spox connectors and crimp tool (at a frightening price, actually). I'd like to know if I am on the right track. I'd be grateful for any / all info. - wire gauge, preferred suppliers, cheaper alternatives, sources of info, etc. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happy Jack Posted November 16, 2009 Author Share Posted November 16, 2009 No-one? I am surprised, I thought this would be very common. I'm gonna turn on my 'KevinE' searchlight and point it into the sky. I'm am positive this would be something he encounters on a regular basis, or at least would hope so! As I say, any input would be grateful. A quick look again on the Farnell site, and it looks as if those particular connectors are no longer manufactured. I cannot find what I'm looking for on the RS or Rapid websites - not that I really know what I'm looking for - so I've hit a wall. Looking at the unit, with the 5 or so 4 way looms, 2 way connector to the fan, and the supply to the lamp from the base that all runs up and out the single yoke arm, it doesn't seem likely that even with a complete strip down can I pull these out with the connectors till attached. What makes this essential now is that the encoder on the tilt assembly isn't true, so both that and the belt need to be replaced, something I cannot see happening with all this in the way! I'm gonna presume now then that cables are run to their location for before they are crimped, cable tied and then fixed onto each motor. Being able to make up my own looms, then, is something I'd like to be able to do myself and seems like something that can't actually be avoided in situations like this. Knowing that I can just snip the end, buy in the parts and crack on with it all would be nice. Not quite there yet it seems. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.elsbury Posted November 16, 2009 Share Posted November 16, 2009 Can you possibly snip the ends 5 inches away from the connector, pull the wires through, and rejoin and heatshrink the ends later?I know it's not going to be an easy task... but if you can't get the connectors any other way...?:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happy Jack Posted November 16, 2009 Author Share Posted November 16, 2009 Can you possibly snip the ends 5 inches away from the connector, pull the wires through, and rejoin and heatshrink the ends later? Thanks for coming in David. You got it, there! That'll be what will happen if there isn't any other alternative. I'm hopeful one will pop up, though. I would've thought, at least, that these particular connectors - RSB if I recall, if that means anything to anyone - may have a solder terminal variant of the same size / gauge. So long as it is compatible and relatively cheap, I'd rather make less work for myself and learn a trick or two along the way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.elsbury Posted November 16, 2009 Share Posted November 16, 2009 You'll probably find few solder versions due to the very small pitch of the connectors- I'd say the iron is going to heat the pins up possibly to the point of melting the plastic and loosening the rest of the pins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happy Jack Posted November 16, 2009 Author Share Posted November 16, 2009 Oh, and the connectors are HRS, Hirose. Makes sense, and makes looking for replacements a hell of a lot easier. I can't tell you where RBS came from. They look like the DF20 series, 1mm pitch. Their datasheets are comprehensive, so I expect to be able to pull the info from them. What has disturbed me if the price of the crimp tool. Over £1700! I can't quite believe that, for something that just looks like a 'tricked-out' pop rivet gun. I won't be going down that route, then... http://uk.farnell.com/hrs-hirose/ht302-df2...acts/dp/1518799 Any more input / thoughts appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyro_gearloose Posted November 16, 2009 Share Posted November 16, 2009 Will none of these fit the bill? I'd be surprised if the connectors you need are 1mm pitch. That seems too small. All of the moving lights I've serviced (including the Pro Spots baby brother, the iSpot 150) use 2.54mm pitch connectors as thats a standard size in the electronics world. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted November 16, 2009 Share Posted November 16, 2009 I'd be surprised if the connectors you need are 1mm pitch. That seems too small.Likewise. Get your ruler out and measure the distance between adjacent pins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happy Jack Posted November 16, 2009 Author Share Posted November 16, 2009 All of the moving lights I've serviced (including the Pro Spots baby brother, the iSpot 150) use 2.54mm pitch connectors as thats a standard size in the electronics world. Cheers for the info.! Thanks for the link as well, although it would mean I'd have to swap out the headers on the board? With the units now sat in front of me, the pitch is 2.5mm. 13mm measured between the wings. Having another look, and the HRS DF1 series jump out at me. HRS no. DF1-4S-2.5C looks spot on. Again, all the info is in their (quite fantastic) datasheets. My emails have been sent, but as I say it's always good to hear from others who are well versed in this particular area, and for any info. / clarification. The idea is still very much about making up my own with the least amount of work. While Davids suggestion is fine for those looms with all 4 connections intact and tidy, there are a few that will have to be replaced. I'm unaware if Hirose make any tools to aid the 'extraction', or if the crimp tool for this series doesn't cost a small fortune - I'm still waiting for a response. Thanks for all your input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted November 16, 2009 Share Posted November 16, 2009 ...the pitch is 2.5mm.That's good 'cos it open up all sorts of cheaper suppliers to you. Have a look at Farnell and something like the Molex KK series. I use a crimp tool from RS for these, cost me about £10, sadly it doesn't have the part number on it. It's a non-ratchet tool with yellow handles if that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happy Jack Posted November 16, 2009 Author Share Posted November 16, 2009 I use a crimp tool from RS for these, cost me about £10... Thank God! That is a blessing. Had a little look and found this. http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchB...t&R=1733329 Not quite £10, but I won't have to rob a bank to buy it. Something I forgot to mention at the beginning - while the DF1 series from HRS look like suitable matches, the current connectors are set at right angles with the sleeved cable poking out the other side by 1 or 2mm. This looks like standard practice. While I can see how the crimp fits into the socket leading in from the top, is it tucked in some way to allow it to fit securely or is a different method used? And thanks Brian, the KK series is something I'll bear in mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinE Posted November 16, 2009 Share Posted November 16, 2009 To be honest I'd just buy a ready made-up loom! They come with the connectors already attached and it saves alot of time. The super-flexible cable itself is expensive to buy by the reel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happy Jack Posted November 16, 2009 Author Share Posted November 16, 2009 To be honest I'd just buy a ready made-up loom! I was hoping to learn a little something along the way. I've got cable for days, so it can all be recycled. It's just, for the most part I'd rather know exactly what it is I'm looking at, and how it managed to end up in that state! Buying them prefab, I'd also still worry that I wouldn't have the space to run them up through the pan assembly and through the yoke arm. Is that even possible with the connectors attached? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinE Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 Yes of course, that's how they're made. The looms are made by machine which cuts, strips, crimps and assembles the wires all in one go, the machines spew the various lengths out ready terminated at a rate of knots and operatives simply pick the finished items up in the correct quantity and add a few cable ties. The connectors will pass easily through the axles of the head with the aid of a pair of long nose tweezers. The only thing you'll learn by making up a loom in-situ in the head is what a pain it is to do! Seiko-Denki cut-strip-twist-crimp machine Back in another life I've serviced the electronics on these machines for a well-known (and now foreign-made) ex-British appliance manufacturer whose machine controls were courtesy of a 1980's Dec PDP minicomputer (for those interested!). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happy Jack Posted November 17, 2009 Author Share Posted November 17, 2009 Thanks for clarifying, and that little bit of background, Kevin. Most appreciated. I'll get in touch with the friendly people at Burple. The only thing you'll learn by making up a loom in-situ in the head is what a pain it is to do! ..evidently... :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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