I want to make a very basic cue system.

[stuartm]

Right, I want to make a very basic cue system, and when I say basic I mean basic.

 

I was thinking of using two LED's (Red/Amber and Green) in a wooden/plastic block, and just two push switches or a three way switch (red then off then green) and basically running it just on a long cable and off a nine volt battery.

 

Do you reckon that this would work? Is there a better way to do this?

[Andrew C]

That is as simple as you'll get it. You may have realised, that by using LEDs you can use 2 core cable, and change colour by changing the polarity at the switch. Connect the LEDs in reverse parallel and away you go!

[stuartm]

I think I understood that most of that.

 

What do you mean by reverse parallel though?

[boatman]

Like this:

 

          ___   +->|-+
      ---|___|--o    o----
                +-|<-+

:

 

Don't forget to add a ballast resistor. For a 9V battery, start off with 680R as that will give you just over 10mA through the LED's.

[stuartm]

Thanks I think I get you :)

[Ben K]

Ah, I've been beaten to it, (damn) :) well I've already made one, I haven't managed to test mine yet though and I've done it slightly differently so here's my questions:

- The way I've done my version is with 3 cores of cable(1x common - then 1 for each led) would this system work down a 50m ish XLR cable???

-If I converted mine to the way described above would it run down 50m XLR?

-am I better to supply 9v power from the switch end or led end?

hope this all makes sense(slightly confusing myself now :wacko: )

Cheers.

B

[stuartm]

Im confused now as well.

 

I need a circuit diagram :)

[c.cam108]

Hi

 

It should work fine down 50m of XLR, but might require a smaller resistor due to losses in the cable. Basically, try it and see if it works. If the LEDs are too dim, reduce the size of the resistor, but not by too much, or you will blow the LEDs.

 

Either way will work down the XLR lead, as you only need 3 wires for the way you've done Ben K, and 2 wires for the way boatman describes.

 

Power can go at either end, but I would put it with the switches (dunno why).

 

Here is a schematic:

EDIT: I'll get that up later

 

Hope that helps!

 

Colin C

[boatman]

Im confused now as well.

 

I need a circuit diagram :)

 

You will need a double pole, double-throw with centre-off switch and connect it up like this:

 

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-5/1185528/CueLight.jpg

[Ben K]

Thanks Colin, great help. I think I'll stick with my original 3 way system to save re soldering everything!

Cheers,

Ben k

[dbuckley]

About 20 years ago I built a basic four channel cue light system using the same very simple approach of one wire for one LED, and its served me well. Perversely, I used four core alarm cable and 4 pin DIN connectors. The fourth core is connected to a buzzer in each outstation. The cables have been replaced a couple times, but still, its done the job, and I've not yet felt the need to actually build a proper system.

[stuartm]

That's basically my idea just the reverse parallel thing confused me. I was going to have too separate circuits just either side of the switch. Ill get a DT technician to help :)

[c.cam108]

http://lh3.ggpht.com/c.cam108/SMAfG0TT_2I/AAAAAAAAAfQ/bD8dymz1bvM/s800/cue.GIF

 

There you go. Sorry I didn't get it up earlier, I was away out.

 

Colin C

 

EDIT: Actually, I would put the return on pin 1, as it is the wire shield. So the pins should go 2, 3, 1 not 1, 2, 3.

[DavidLee]

A useful modification is to replicate the red/green LEDs at the switch end and add a non-latching push-to-break switch at the receiver. That way the operator being signalled can respond to standby by flashing the red LED. It's handy to know that something will probably happen when you press GO!

 

David

[stuartm]

Right this image has given me an idea!

 

http://lh3.ggpht.com/c.cam108/SMAfG0TT_2I/AAAAAAAAAfQ/bD8dymz1bvM/s800/cue.GIF

 

 

Could I have the left side of the image connected to an XLR socket, then plug this into an XLR cable then into another socket before the right side.

 

So the two parts are separate without an XLR cable.

 

Problem is, I have never taken apart an XLR cable or an XLR plug etc.