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Stash uncovered


the kid

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I have just been out and collected quite a bit of jumble off a friend. Some is useful some is not.

 

But questions I have http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3061/2664512906_1ec4e4afe6.jpg

 

 

this which is a 2k handheld/tripod light for photos/film and a brother for it which is 1k. They are fan cooled and any searching on the net does not find the company. The issue is the fan's are both broken and they would be really nice to have, it might be something simple but a schematic would be useful.

 

 

 

I also have http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3203/2663677477_0684c9245b_m.jpg these x10 a simple description is a lamp in a old paint tin, a complex description is a lamp in a old paint tin. It's all connected up and earthed provided it passes a PAT does anyone see issue with using them/flogging them if the front is meshed incase a lamp blows?

 

Lastly out of the pile are 8 pinspots. Not being ofay with pinspots is the internal wiring usualy like this http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3017/2664522638_d7c2c984dd_m.jpg http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3182/2663700151_2765991827_m.jpg the back is http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3230/2664530206_c26d697081_m.jpg but I know that needs a cover on it.

 

 

 

I also have on offer 2 furse dimmers (originaly for install but in flight cases) and 12way furse desk C/W control, although I have offered to NEET.

 

A CYM video projector, the old style with the 3 colour tubes.

 

TK

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.

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They are fan cooled and any searching on the net does not find the company

.

.

 

Those lanterns were originally made in Nuremberg by Reflecta. AFAIK they stopped manufacturing them several years ago, but there might still be information available from the company.

 

HTH.

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Re the lamps in old paint tin, what can not be seen in the photo, is the means of securing the mains flex, if this done properly with a grommet to protect against sharp edges, and a cord grip to protect against strain on the connections, then provided they are earthed, I see no problem.

Adding wire mesh would be prudent but not perhaps essiential, as the lamps appear to be standard d0m3estic ones, when did you last see a table lamp with a mesh cover?

 

As regards the pin spots, the wiring to the back of the lamps, looks standard, it is generally 6 or 12 volts and should be fine.

What is of more concern is that the 230 volt terminals on the transformer appear to be exposed.

Opinions differ as to how serious this is.

Some would argue that the terminals are enclosed in the outer case of the light, and that the unit should be unplugged, and therefore safe before the case is opened.

Others would argue that the terminals can be exposed without the use of a key or tool, and that this is not allowed, and would fail the visual inspection part of a PAT test.

 

I would advise against useing the fan cooled lights without the fan working, except perhaps for a very brief test. Maplin electronics and RS sell a large range of fans, and you may therefire be able to replace it cheaply.

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Re the lamps in old paint tin, what can not be seen in the photo, is the means of securing the mains flex, if this done properly with a grommet to protect against sharp edges, and a cord grip to protect against strain on the connections, then provided they are earthed, I see no problem.

Adding wire mesh would be prudent but not perhaps essiential, as the lamps appear to be standard d0m3estic ones, when did you last see a table lamp with a mesh cover?

 

Although standard d0m3estic connection they are 250/500w lamps IIR. The photo is deceiving the cans are about 12 inches high.

 

 

As regards the pin spots, the wiring to the back of the lamps, looks standard, it is generally 6 or 12 volts and should be fine.

What is of more concern is that the 230 volt terminals on the transformer appear to be exposed.

Opinions differ as to how serious this is.

Some would argue that the terminals are enclosed in the outer case of the light, and that the unit should be unplugged, and therefore safe before the case is opened.

Others would argue that the terminals can be exposed without the use of a key or tool, and that this is not allowed, and would fail the visual inspection part of a PAT test.

 

So deabatably safe, would heat shrink cover the connection issue?

 

I would advise against useing the fan cooled lights without the fan working, except perhaps for a very brief test. Maplin electronics and RS sell a large range of fans, and you may therefire be able to replace it cheaply.

 

I actually got an email off reflecta saying they are from the 80's and no schematics or parts exist, but I am sure some bits can be found.

 

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Did not realise that the paint can lights were as large as 250/500 watts, wire mesh would seem advisable, though even in very large sizes GLS lamps are not prone to shattering.

 

Heatshrink applied to the exposed transformer terminals would certainly reduce the risk, though whether it would satifsy a pedantic or bloody minded pat tester I dont know.

 

As regards the fan cooled lights, before going to the trouble of sourcing new fans, make certain that replacement bulbs are still available and affordable.

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Maybe its a good thing the fans dont work.

 

Anyidea if its a MASSIVE issue if they don't?

 

Thats 1KW of heat in a very small space; they get effing hot even with the fans running!!!!!

 

So yes, fans mandatory in my opinion.

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I used to have some Sachtler lights for video use that had internal fans--which were quiet enough that I didn't even realise they were there at first. The Sachtlers were very nice light--the reflector system was good enough that the light output with an 800 watt lamp was pretty much equal with the typical 2kW "blondes" in common use back then--and a lot easier to plug in 2 of them without blowing a breaker!

 

As for the paint can lights, when I was a little nipper my father had the rather unusual hobby of doing puppet shows with marionettes he made himself--on a stage he also built, including lighting. His version was lights in Canadian-style orange juice cans. The lamp sockets were carefully mounted with regard for insulation and he even used some sheet metal to make gel holders which he soldered on the front. The largest wattage he used (as far as I can remember--I was only about 12 when he stopped doing shows) was about 100W but, with the inside of the luminaires painted silver, they gave a nice soft even light all over the (small) stage.

 

Bob

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The grommet on the inlet on the back of that pinspot is missing; you'll want to replace that.

 

Also, is the lamp retaining clip still present? V-shaped piece of metal that clips over the lamp to stop it falling out.

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when did you last see a table lamp with a mesh cover?

 

OT but I was sitting on the floor playing with my daughter once when the entire glass part of the lamp in the ceiling light eight feet above us landed on the carpet between us. Luckily it didn't smash and very luckily it didn't hit either of us. The metal bit of the lamp remained firmly in the fixture.

 

 

Edit: to make better sense

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