Jump to content

To all you Powered Speaker Users out there


Mr.Si

Recommended Posts

Hi all

 

I may be coming across some Meyer Powered boxes and am wondering about the best way for getting power and signal to them.

 

Now, I have been tempted to run a power and an XLR in a loom together. I'd be having a couple of 40m XLRs and maybe 45m 2.5mmsq H07RN-F.

 

Wonder what your opinions of power and signal looms over such a distance were? Or whether even though the signal cable is balanced, it's still best to keep the two separate.

 

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Si

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Si,

 

depending on the power these boxes need, theres plenty of cable on the market that has mains and audio run together-

this isnt normally a problem providing your running the audio balanced- unbalanced is a big no no with mains-

I can supply this cable but its pricey!! well the good stuff is- there is cheaper out there but dont know what its like and how good it is..

 

dan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As you've already intimated, the main problem would be with common-mode induced hum, but since you're balanced (and line level too), this will be minimised. I cant see a problem from a safety point of view either, really.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use the combined leads that CPC do, though at 20m, the longest will not do for you. Thomann however seem to sell the cable.

 

I've never had mains noise picked up by the cable that I can hear and find that it shaves noticeable time of set up / break down.

 

The only thing I'd add to that is that I check these cables foe damage very regularly, as the possibility of getting 240V into the signal cable is greater than with separate cables.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I recently had some equipment on hire from a fairly large touring PA company, who run with LOTS of Meyer boxes. All their cables are signal and mains loomed together.

 

We had absolutely no problems with that. Perhaps worth noting though, that they used seperate cables taped together, not any prefab loom, which would make repairs easier and cheaper.

 

Neil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Excellent.

 

That's exactly what I wanted to do neild.

 

Thanks to all the replies.

 

That cable from Thomann is expensive!!! (to me)

 

Now, over a 40m length, for a UPA-1P, would a 1.5Sqmm be ok? or should I use a 2.5Sqmm due to voltage drop over the distance. It'll be from a 13A to a Powercon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you are certain that you won't need to run any more than one UPA-1P off the cable in future, stick with 1.5mm^2 cable, volt drop will be

no more than 3V over 40m. Your back will thank you too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I´d have to go with the "make your own" method.

 

MOSTLY because you can actually tape the cables together with the connectors "perfectly lengthened" so that they both leave their connecting points and there are no small coils from excess cable etc.

 

 

If your going to make them up... and run the cables before placing connectors, I´d "tape" with heatshrink, at least for the "first and last" points.

To me it just comes out a little more professional looking and worth the extra time and pennies it takes to do.. however it all falls apart if your not too kind to the cables or they are rigged in unkind places....

In this situation, yep.. its tape which will need replaced a few times.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I recently had some equipment on hire from a fairly large touring PA company, who run with LOTS of Meyer boxes. All their cables are signal and mains loomed together.

 

We had absolutely no problems with that. Perhaps worth noting though, that they used seperate cables taped together, not any prefab loom, which would make repairs easier and cheaper.

 

Neil

 

 

I've just run 18 Milo boxes this weekend with power and signal bound together in looms and had no problems whatsoever - well apart from the noisy amp in one of the boxes, but that ain't the cables to blame!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think I'll just remove an XLR from one of the ends and insert lots of bands of Heat Shrink and then put the XLR back on again.

 

Nice to hear such good success stories from y'all, it does put my mind at rest somewhat

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you are certain that you won't need to run any more than one UPA-1P off the cable in future, stick with 1.5mm^2 cable, volt drop will be

no more than 3V over 40m. Your back will thank you too.

 

Seconded, let me check my regs book first but 1.5mm will be fine, even over 40m.

 

John Denim.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another option instead of heatshrink might be self amalgamating tape. I've used motor power and control looms made by TMB that have been done this way, and they are still holding good nearly 5 years on. It also means no de-connectoring to make the looms.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.