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Fat Frog


Guest joewhite903

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Guest joewhite903

Hi just wondering iff there is anybody in the East Kilbride/Glasgow area that would be willing to give me a crash course, On the Fat frog, Thanks Joe

 

 

Moderation: This topic has been moved to "The Next Generation" because, although the OP isn't a student himself, it relates to volunteer work being done on a school show. It also involves the use of a setup (imposed by the school apparently) which has been universally condemned as "bad practice" by professional members. (And the spelling, punctuation and grammar could be better as well!)

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Guest joewhite903
Wish I could do that Jack but its not my desk, id rather Use a Strand MX24, Which is what the school used to use, untill they built the new one and gave them that. The show Starts a week on wed and I know more bout the desk than anybody else in the school, and im asking for help (Shows how little they know about it). I left the school 4 years ago but I return every year to assist with shows and events :rolleyes:
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What do you need to do on it, Joe? Everything!! ? Are you patching dimmers and or fixtures? Do you need to soft patch the DMX or can you run it 1-2-1?

 

Give us a guide as to your requirements on the desk. Sure, you can go through the manual, but you might only need a bit of help on a certain point . .

 

 

Moderation: Edited to correct major problems with spelling, grammar and punctuation. In the Blue Room, "u" is NOT an acceptable substitute for "you" and posters ARE encouraged to begin sentences with an upper case letter. Future posts that fall below standards for spelling and grammar will be deleted rather than corrected.

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Guest joewhite903

Well channels ive sorted they have installed 2 Chilli 24-10Amp dimmer packs, So ive programmed them to the corrisponding channel that we require plus given us 3 spare channels, was wanting to put the 4 movers on there own fixture profile, and hoping to put there supply which comes from ch1,5,8 and 12 on the dimmer onto something like Brightness there patched to ch's 45,46,47 and 48 at the moment to make them easyer to find as it was all (direct patch at first so to switch them on you had to put faders 1,5,8 and 12 on) as you would understand this is not practical.

Big problem though is as soon as you hit Blackout you kill the movers which are (Cheap I-Solution) IM-5S-HID (150 discharge) is there any way to sort that, We would like to be able to keep them live during blackout, I may end up re patching them so the power channel isnt on the desk and they come live, when I tell them to via manual on the dimmer. Plus I just need to repair the fixture channels as there missing The gobo effect

 

The only other thing then is building Scene's accessing them etc, Thanks Joe

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...hoping to put there supply which comes from ch1,5,8 and 12 on the dimmer onto something like Brightness

 

 

Movers should never be plugged into a dimmable source, they need constant power to work! Wht movers are they? Why cant you run the movers of 1 (or 2) 13A sockets?

 

The whole patching from generic channel into part of the fixture profiule can't be done.

 

PM me your MSN and I'll talk you through anything you want to know

 

EDIT: Just re-read your post and seen that the movers are "(Cheap I-Solution) IM-5S-HID (150 discharge)". As far as I know, there isn't a fixture profile on the FatFrog for this mover, so you may need to make one. Working on it now.....

 

HTH,

 

Chris

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Guest joewhite903
Ive set the dimmers to SWITCH forgot to mention that, for the movers , as for bightness I was hopping to be able to rename its setting as lamp on/off or something like that.
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Joe, setting your dimmers to switch to power moving lights is DEFINATELY bad practice and you should disable the system immediately. Moving Lights should only be powered from 'hot' power (straight from the mains) - powering them through a dimmer can result in damage to both the moving light and the dimmer. This has been discussed many times on the Blue Room.
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Guest joewhite903
Peter as I said before these are not my lights. I go back to the school every year to help. Yes I know this is done incorrectly, But it wasnt me who done it, it was the "professional company" that installed it that wired it like that, I Expected it to be on its own isolater so that we could have always live power on the trussing, this company have used ready made 2x socopex - 12x 15A roundpin, 3 of them and anougher bar with 3 lots of 4 ch for the cyc's on one bar , so there is no manual supply to it, One isolator 2 dimmer packs and thats it.
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Guest joewhite903
Okay anogher thing , were not aloud to touch the rig, we must call this outside company, for Gells, Lamps anything that needs done , the only way I could possibly get to the lights would be via a very big ladder as the new school arent aloud scaffolding, or climb the truss, but there is no way in hell im climbing it, we dont know this external companies name, the show starts in less than 2 weeks, im trying to work out this bloody controller, Weve got plenty of 4bars and extensions, I just cant reach the lights, I will get you guys photos on tues
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Okay anogher thing , were not aloud to touch the rig, we must call this outside company, for Gells, Lamps anything that needs done , the only way I could possibly get to the lights would be via a very big ladder as the new school arent aloud scaffolding, or climb the truss, but there is no way in hell im climbing it, we dont know this external companies name, the show starts in less than 2 weeks, im trying to work out this bloody controller, Weve got plenty of 4bars and extensions, I just cant reach the lights, I will get you guys photos on tues

 

Joe, I think it's time to walk away from this one. The whole setup sounds like a nightmare and if you go now, the school still has time to get the "outside company" to do the job. Don't forget to give them a list of detailed reasons why you're not willing to take on the work.

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