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Shure 55S Mic


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I have an old Shure 55S mic purchased for use as a period prop, but I would like to be able to use it as well. It has an unusual connector at the base, 3 pin but with a screw retainer rather than a bayonet. I have been told that older Shure mics used Amphenol connectors until thay were withdrawn. Can anyone tell me what the connector might be, the pin-out and where I could purchase them. Failing that, does anyone make cables for them still?
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Could the connector be a 3 pin locking din - e.g. RS 486-094

Definitely not, I'm afraid. I've come across this type of connector before on a Shure 545 mic. There is also a 4 pin version.

 

Have you tried contacting HW International, the Shure importers for the UK? I'm sure (sorry!) they will have been asked about these before.

 

Dave.

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I seem to recall making a lead for a old Shure mic three or fours years ago, that had a four pole connector. Try looking at www.cpc.co.uk (Part no: CN05822) for 3 way in line socket, or (CN04162) for 4 way. These are low cost circular mulitpole connectors for audio / video applications. But I can't remember if these were the one's or not, that's the problem with age I forget......
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I seem to recall making a lead for a old Shure mic three or fours years ago...

Sorry, but this isn't the right one either. This type of connector is often used with "fist" mics for radio transmitters and the like, but isn't what we're after here. (I used to have some MJL dimmer packs that for reasons best known to themselves used the 8 way version of this connector for the control input!).

 

I've done a bit of digging myself. The connector was made by Amphenol. The three pin version seems particularly hard to locate.

 

I found one company in America offering them:

 

Oak Tree Enterprises

 

http://www.oaktreeent.com/web_photos/microphones/MC_Shure3-Pin_collage.jpg

 

I think this is what you want. Note that the connector is a different shape to the ones I've seen/used previously, which have been a sort of conical design - you can just see this style in the picture on the Shure data sheet given earlier.

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Thanks Dave, that certainly looks like the correct cable, but at $55 plus shipping from the US I'll have to find some way of testing the mic first.

 

I've tried Amphenol themselves for parts, and disties like Farnell and RS, but they don't stock the MC3M connectors anymore. I'd already tried HMI but they were unable to help either.

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Thanks Dave, that certainly looks like the correct cable, but at $55 plus shipping from the US I'll have to find some way of testing the mic first.

That is a bit pricey! You will get charged VAT and import duty on top, as well. ;)

 

It's easy to test the mic - just push wires into the socket on it and connect it to a mixer in the usual manner.

 

Where in the country are you? I know someone in Lancashire with a suitable lead. (And no, it's not for sale!).

 

I've tried Amphenol themselves for parts, and disties like Farnell and RS, but they don't stock the MC3M connectors anymore. I'd already tried HMI but they were unable to help either.

I presume that was a typo and you meant HWI.

 

A good place to post a request for an alternative source would be the live audio board, which is based in America and has a large and knowledgable readership.

 

Live Audio Board

 

They technically have a no adverts (including wanted) policy, but if you explain your situation and make it clear that what you are looking for is vintage and hard-to-find I think you'll be fine.

 

And, believe it or not, I used to have one of these plugs years ago. I can't remember what happened to it - I probably threw it out! Sorry.

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Could you not just chop the plug off and solder a nice XLR connector straing onto the mic cable?

No. What plug? :(

 

(I probably missed an important reason why not, somewhere!)

Yes. Did you read (and understand) the full thread before posting??? ;)

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  • 3 weeks later...
I have converted one of the Shure 55 and several similar connection (older) 545 unidyne 3 series by removing the Amphenol socket. Cut a switchcraft XLR connector in half and then grind out the hole in the mic with a Dremel until the XLR plug case is going to be a tight friction fit into the mic. Drill a hole through the mic that will line up with the screw that secures the conector into the XLR when the plug outer is pressed into the mic. Devcon can be used to secure the XLR case into the mic if needed but if done carefully, when the XLR case is pressed into the mic it will be very difficult to extract. You now have an industry standard XLR fitting without the need for adaptors. Good Luck
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  • 2 years later...
Hi, I just found this thread as I have a simillar problem with an old Amperite SR80 ribbon mic. I think I will modify it to take a standard XLR connector. I dont think anyone answered this but do the pin numbers on this mic correspond with XLR pins? the link to the sure article seems to indicate this.
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Be careful with ribbon mics, if the internal transformer is configured a certain way (is it earth tapped?) then it will not like phantom power. I think SOS answered this question in their mag some time ago, I will have a look for you.

 

[edit]

 

From Uneeda Audio

 

What won't work:

Microphones with grounded center-tapped outputs. Many old ribbon microphones were supplied connected this way. Have a technician lift the ground from the center tap. The microphone is now phantom-power compatible. Connecting a microphone with a grounded center-tap, when phantom power is present, could damage the microphone. Connecting the microphone first, and applying phantom power second is permissible and will not harm the microphone. We recommend the latter (connect first, then apply power) as a safety measure if you don’t know for sure that the microphone has a grounded center-tap.

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You'll probably also find out that it is likely to be unbalanced, but with a high and low impedance tap, so only two of the three pins will be required. Keep n eye on ebay because they do come up from time to time. Dont bodge the mic socket, it will wreck any resale value, the idea to make a connector is the best idea.
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