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Bolts for lanterns


Thirdtap

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Has anyone tried the Flints headlock ?

I've got them on everything that isn't pre-threaded (in fact I think they're an improvement on a threaded trunion).

 

The only downsides is the students tend to take then off and even in quantity they're not particularly cheap.

 

shane

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  • 2 years later...

I'm meat-racking minuettes on stands for a small portable rig, and I can't decide whether I like having a second sprung washer above the bar.

 

I've put them on (from the bottom up)

 

M10 Bolt

Flat Washer

Yoke of the lantern

Flat washer

Sprung washer

Flat washer

T-bar

Flat washer

Nylon locking nut

 

which is just putting the chromed square section bar in the place of a G-clamp, but it bugs me seeing the bolt assembly move in the bar rather than the trunnion arm swivel on the washers.

 

A second sprung washer before the NyLok feels strange and I don't want to put a split washer against the bar and mark the chrome.

 

I was thinking of using a copper washer next to the yoke to improve slip.

 

i.e. M10 Bolt

Flat Washer

Copper washer

Trunion Arm of the lantern

Flat washer

Sprung washer

Flat washer

T-bar

Flat washer

Nylon locking nut

 

or maybe I'll start again and fix the bolt to the bar first and then hang the lantern,

 

from the top

M10 Bolt

Flat Washer

T-bar

Flat washer

Sprung washer

M10 Nut

Flat washer

Lantern Yoke

Flat washer

Sprung Washer

Wingnut

 

but I don't like wingnuts on a travelling rig (you lose them in transit), and you can't swing a spanner in a minuette yoke :huh:

 

(Thinks: wonder if they've patented the NyLock wingnut :wacko: or maybe use Loctite.)

 

Help. I've been playing with this all morning, and I've yet to drill the Maplins T-bars to M8 to sling the parcans on. I bet that'll niggle too.

 

What works for you when mounting lanterns directly on a bar?

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Has anyone tried the Flints headlock?
On a similar theme, our new Selecon Rama Fresnels come with Fast Focus Technology. It's a (rather complicated) assembly that sits round the yoke and hook clamp, and allows you to lock it off just using a big wing nut. It also has a degrees scale marked on it, so you can focus before the bar is flown. According to the site it's available for other lanterns too, but I guess it may well be quite expensive. There is an animation here showing it in action.

 

HTH

 

PN

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In the olden days all our bars of par cans used to made up like this starting from the bottom.

 

Bolt

Steel washer

Fibre washer

Yoke

fibre washer

steel washer

fibre washer

bar

fibre washer

steel washer

nylock

 

Of course all threads were 3/8 whitworth.

 

The fibre washer still give you some movement when the nylock is done up nice and tight.

 

Doug

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Headlock is a neat idea. I have 10 of them which I've put on Cantatas and 23s (the stuff I use for gobo projection which require a very small amount of movement to get right), they have been invaluable for that.

 

HTH

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... and I've yet to drill the Maplins T-bars to M8 to sling the parcans on. I bet that'll niggle too.

:( Thankfully M10 bolts fit the pre-drilled holes on the Maplins t-bars.

I bought these years ago. They're supplied with bolts nuts washers and wingnuts, of an unusual size (possibly an american standard.)

After I'd lost several of the wingnuts, I couldn't find a match. Fortunately M10s fit. ( :o Funny, the supplied black ones looked smaller than shiny M8s at a glance!)

I'm replacing the lot with M10s and binning the supplied hardware. I'd recommend anyone buying the Maplins lighting bars to do the same.

 

The manufacturers design has the bolt thru the bar, and you then hang lanterns off the protruding bolt and secure with a wingnut. It never held securely. The lights moved on the wingnut, the bolts moved in the bar and you flatten the bar trying to tighten them enough.

 

I've followed the advised method of the BR members (Bolt up through the yoke, washers, etc and then thru the bar) and the lanterns are secure and easily usable now.

 

Using steel washers and sprung washers only is fine if you get the tension right.

Half a flat (12th of a turn) can make all the difference between it moving ok then staying where it's pointed and either moving too freely, or being too stiff. It's a faff getting it right.

 

I've got to try fibre or nylon washers. It must be easier and quicker.

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How about using the wing nut spanner <snip>

Wingnut spanners are the work of Beelzebub! :o

If you can't get it tight enough by hand, don't use a wingnut.

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Ah I remember the old days, pity they are gone, now I would just settle for all the nuts in the rig being one standard Doug.

 

As one who prefers ratchet ring spanners to AJs for tightening up the lamps here is a plea to all you lovely warehouse types out there, please just use a consistant standard when replacing nuts and bolts especially when replacing that one odd lost nut.

 

It's pretty obvious really but its amazing how often it doesn't happen.

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"Has anyone tried the Flints headlock ? Flints Headlock They seem like a really nice idea."

 

Yep, nice and simple little device that. Bought a load of them a couple years ago for all our lamps in a studio theatre. Good finger/time saver and saves carrying adjustable/17mm spanner up your access for a focus session..."HEADS!"

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Hi Leo

 

As it happens we have been rewiring the bars and taking out the stupid spacers. So at 40 of the bars have all the same nut sizes on them and hopefully and hopefully the rest will have soon.

 

I also agree that wing nut spanners are the work of the devil. If one person has one a job it means that everyone has to.

 

 

Doug

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The headlock is a great idea! I am putting them on most of my hire lanterns.

We have been selling them with sales lanterns for years now and most of our customers seem to love them.

However you must install them correctly or they will not work:

 

Bolt

Headlock (which sits round the tilting fork)

Tilting fork (see above)

Washer

Sprung washer

Nut

 

Now we still use wig nuts on our hire stock (for obvious reasons) but there is nothing to stop you using hex nuts or nylocks on these.

 

Mark

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