Tom Newman Posted February 10, 2007 Share Posted February 10, 2007 We've managed to lose the remote controller for our Martin Magnum 550 smoke machine. I called Martin directly yesterday and nearly laughed when they told me how much a new remote controller would be - £75! A new smoke unit is £85! One of their employees emailed me stating that the voltage is 230V through the remote. I’m looking to build a new remote. My problem is that I am hoping to use the unit on Friday, so I need to get the parts as soon as possible. I have uploaded the flow diagram and image for the remote controller here. Do you know where I could get an enclosure and the parts required? I was looking on the internet, and it would be good if we could use something like the following http://web3.automationdirect.com/adc/Overv...sh_-a-_Extended - the original remote had a light and a switch - hopefully one of the switches I specified above could do the same job? The company also provide an enclosure for the switch. I do not know much about electronics, so don’t know if it would be possible to use one of them. I’m looking for the quickest (and preferably cheapest) solution. I’d appreciate any advice you could offer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomo Posted February 10, 2007 Share Posted February 10, 2007 Much as I hate to be the first one to say this, I note that you are a student who is still at school - please don't do this by yourself.Get a teacher involved - Physics or Design & Technology would be the obvious choice - as the remote control for these does have mains voltage and current inside it. 230VAC hurts a lot, and is not something I wish to repeat or would like to see someone else hurt or killed by. As far as the remote goes - I'm afraid I can't quite work it out from your schematic, but a Physics or D&T teacher can look at the unit itself and help you work it all out. It looks to me like you've opened up the smoke machine - it will need re-PAT testing before use - again, your teachers will be able to arrange this for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbuckley Posted February 10, 2007 Share Posted February 10, 2007 Yes, 22mm buttons and assoiated (plastic!) enclosure would be ideal, will be a hundred times better than the original, anyone competent to build the thing will immediately recognise the parts needed and how to wire them. T a school, Sir in Physics might be a good choice, or design tech. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ynot Posted February 10, 2007 Share Posted February 10, 2007 We've managed to lose the remote controller for our Martin Magnum 550 smoke machine.Had you posted this before last night I could have maybe done a deal on the short term loan of our controller, but unfortunately it went out on hire this morning for a week. But one idea may be to see whether a local supplier has one that you might be able to secure.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jivemaster Posted February 10, 2007 Share Posted February 10, 2007 OK confuse me further! You have lost the remote but have the pic of the insides, or have you several magnums and fewer remotes?!? There should be one to be found as the remains of a broken smoker somewhere. There should be a suitable smoker for hire somewhere in your area. Assuming you have a competent person and can get the correct connector for the smoker end an illuminated push switch rated 250v/5a in a suitable box should suffice. Please do NOT use a G/Y striped core for anything other than Earth/CPC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Newman Posted February 11, 2007 Author Share Posted February 11, 2007 Heya Thanks for the replies. I appreciate the safety advice on building the remote - several parents who get involved with sound and lighting at school would be competent at building one, or as you state, a teacher - I wouldn't build it myself anyway - I much prefer using devices than building them! The flow diagram and image for the remote were provided by Martin technical support; I wouldn't be asking how to build one if I already had one :( , but I understand that my post could have been a little confusing! So, just to clear up, if I can get hold of an illuminated push switch (250V/5A rated) and appropriate plastic enclosure, an IEC male connector for the smoke machine end (don't ask why Martin chose to use an IEC connector for a remote!) and the correct cabling (+ a competent person to fit and PAT test); I should be fine! Just got to try and get it done by Friday! Yay! Once again, if anything sounds dodgy, give us a shout. Thanks Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jivemaster Posted February 11, 2007 Share Posted February 11, 2007 Be sure you can get the connector to the smoker, my old smoker (long gone) had a rectangular moated IEC connector rather than the usual cut corner moated iec.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Newman Posted February 11, 2007 Author Share Posted February 11, 2007 OK; I'll check on the connector tomorrow. Other than that, from looking at the wiring on the image I sent you, do you think it would be possible to use the illuminated push button instead of 2 components - switch and a light? Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ike Posted February 11, 2007 Share Posted February 11, 2007 In short, no. The push button you linked to only comes in 24V and 120V versions, you would need one rated at 230V (or greater). It is also a push on/push off, you would want a momentary push to make type. I would also be tempted to use a neon and resistor instead of a lamp as you can throw them round a lot more without killing them. For reasons of safety everything must be over-engineered to a certain extent as a standard connector is being used it is entirely possible the unit could be plugged into a live outlet (as apposed to the smoke machine) in which case pressing the button would short live to earth. It might not be a bad idea to fit a quick-blow fuse either. As there is no earth the unit must be double insulated. HTH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Newman Posted February 11, 2007 Author Share Posted February 11, 2007 Thanks for the reply. I looked at the ratings of the illuminated push button switch earlier and noticed that it would not suffice. I have been looking on the RS website and have found this product. Therefore, I may just do away with the illuminated idea, as this box comes with the button fitted; I'd just have to get someone to solder the connections as required? And I'd obviously check the rating of the button beforehand as well. I presume I would require the normally open contact block ... so that when the button is pressed it closes the circuit? Thanks Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ike Posted February 11, 2007 Share Posted February 11, 2007 That looks fine, I would be tempted to fit something like part no. 577-550 so you know when its up to temperature. Then all you need is the connector, cable and a suitable cable gland. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ynot Posted February 11, 2007 Share Posted February 11, 2007 Therefore, I may just do away with the illuminated idea, as this box comes with the button fitted; I'd just have to get someone to solder the connections as required? And I'd obviously check the rating of the button beforehand as well. I presume I would require the normally open contact block ... so that when the button is pressed it closes the circuit?Don't forget that the IIRC neon (?) on the original controller also serves as a 'ready' indicator. When the neon brightness changes, the heater is ready to produce smoke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Newman Posted February 11, 2007 Author Share Posted February 11, 2007 Thanks Do you know how to wire the push buttons? Is it a simple process? Just wondered, however I'll be getting a member of staff to do the actual wiring. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ike Posted February 11, 2007 Share Posted February 11, 2007 Whoever wires it up will need to connect the "neutral" terminal to one side of the push to make switch, the "earth" terminal to the other side of the switch and one side of the indicator and the "live" terminal to the other side of the indicator. Please note that the connectors aren't being used for their intended use so don't be confused by the mention of live neutral and earth, I'm simply using them to describe the terminals and not their use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Newman Posted February 11, 2007 Author Share Posted February 11, 2007 Thanks - how would it be wired if we were to "miss-out" the indicator component for the time being? Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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