Jamtastic3 Posted November 10, 2006 Share Posted November 10, 2006 Hi BR,A random question here;I have some Robe scans that don't have a power switch on them: they power up straight from the mains. Now the ones I have have a 16A ceeform going straight to the ceiling (lots of 16A sockets in the ceiling). Sometimes the scans might not get used on certain nights and the way my rig is, I can't turn off that set of breakers, meaning the scans will be on constantly that night with no intention of being used (thinking lamp wastage here) Can you get a small switch that I could have next to the scan that's placed between the power source and the mover? That would be a lot handier than unplugging and plugging in a 16A (damn spring flaps get in the way some times) from a 25 foot ceiling. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Frazer Posted November 10, 2006 Share Posted November 10, 2006 Personally, Movers without on, off switches are a great idea. I loose track of how many times have I've had to get in a harness because some local fool has switched off a mover on a getout/fitup! no matter how hard you try to check they are all switched on, you always miss one. In answer to your question, it should be pretty simple to build an inline switch or MCB with a 16A inlet and outlet. Out of interest, Why do you not have an MCB for each outlet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zonino Posted November 10, 2006 Share Posted November 10, 2006 I agree Neil... especially VL2500's, these should not be allowed switches as the damned switches keep melting on me (stupid batch!!!!) over 75% of my VL problems.... burnt out switches ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Frazer Posted November 10, 2006 Share Posted November 10, 2006 I agree Neil... especially VL2500's, these should not be allowed switches as the damned switches keep melting on me (stupid batch!!!!) over 75% of my VL problems.... burnt out switches ;) The main problem with the VL2500 and the VL2000 is that the switches are actually MCB's which is great as they are quick to reset compared to fuses but not if they are 50 foot up in the air! They are a bit twichey as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulears Posted November 10, 2006 Share Posted November 10, 2006 DO you actuall want a switch you can prod from the ground with a pole, or do you get the steps/ladder out. Somebody else mentioned the breakers - you mentioned you can't turn off that set of breakers - but this kind of intimates the 16A outlets are on a ring - not wired as spurs with individual mcbs. Normally, you could just turn off that set? (Although I have to own up to the fact that at my own venue, one bar is powered from some shared circuits - so if you need power for rack 1, then a bar of LED PAR cans come on - so I see your quandry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnhuson Posted November 10, 2006 Share Posted November 10, 2006 As you don't mention which model of Robe scan you have, I don't know if this is possible but a large quantity of moving lights these days accept lamp on/lamp off commands via DMX. Got to be worth a look at the manual, that way even though the scan is powered your not wasting lamp hours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamtastic3 Posted November 10, 2006 Author Share Posted November 10, 2006 Sorry,I've got MCB's mixed up with breakers ( I think). The scans (DJ 250XT's - no DMX lamp strike) are powered from connections in the ceiling via individual switches (controlling each ring) so I guess these are MCB switches rather than the actual breakers. Paulears is on the similar lines as to what I was meaning: having other things powered on the same ring.This is why I think it would be great to have a switch in the line for each scan. The rig is about 5 ft lower than the ceiling (25 ft) so scaling a ladder to turn certain ones off isn't a problem, ideal in my situation really. But things like projectors and mirrorball motors are also in the same ring and I don't want to be stretching up to the ceiling, trying to plug in and out a 16A ceeform. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulears Posted November 10, 2006 Share Posted November 10, 2006 sorry - I've confused things. It just seems unlikley 16A outlets have been put on a ring - this would be quite unusual. Considering the extra current capacity over the 13A outlet, what mcb value would be in the board? Wouldn't it be simpler to run a separate feed to either the scans or the other items you don't want to go off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calder Posted November 10, 2006 Share Posted November 10, 2006 If you have a bit of budget, how about a DMX controlled switch pack. Then you could control power to other things such as UV, mirrorballs, pinspot helicopters and fuzz lights. :huh: Downsides would be you would have to get it tailed into the mains and distributed out. Just an idea. C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P. Funk Posted November 10, 2006 Share Posted November 10, 2006 We used to have a load of IR inline switches on 13A... you could adapt them and put them up so you can turn them on or off from the floor... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tokm Posted November 11, 2006 Share Posted November 11, 2006 DMX controlled switch packDMX switch packs and ML's.. always been told and seen in the past that its a bad experience.. Only safe way would be if it was proper ML distro that used contactors rather than just a DMX non-dim box.. UV, mirrorballs, pinspot helicopters and fuzz lights are ok to use on your showtech multi-switch sort of units, but when your using something like an ML its a big no no, same with larger strobes (think all this has been covered in a thread before). I'm with Paul, just look at somehow running hard power lines to each scan, there's only four of them after all. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zonino Posted November 11, 2006 Share Posted November 11, 2006 I agree Neil... especially VL2500's, these should not be allowed switches as the damned switches keep melting on me (stupid batch!!!!) over 75% of my VL problems.... burnt out switches :huh: The main problem with the VL2500 and the VL2000 is that the switches are actually MCB's which is great as they are quick to reset compared to fuses but not if they are 50 foot up in the air! They are a bit twichey as well. sorry to go OT... really? these switches are most definately not MCB's... bit twitchy though? can definately agree with that *grumble grumble* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomo Posted November 11, 2006 Share Posted November 11, 2006 DMX controlled switch packDMX switch packs and ML's.. always been told and seen in the past that its a bad experience.. Only safe way would be if it was proper ML distro that used contactors rather than just a DMX non-dim box..As long as it is a reasonable quality relay switchpack and not a dimmer set to 'switched', you will have no problems.(Some dimmers are good enough with some moving lights, but all phase-angle dimming 'colours' the mains signal, so it's not recommended) Remember that discharge lamps draw a lot of current when they strike, and get switchpacks that can handle the *strike* current. It may seem obvious, but remember that if you tell it to turn off, it will turn off. So take care! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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