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remote control lighting


Jeremy Smith

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For an upcoming production of Ayckbourn's Snake In The Grass I need to adapt two hurricane lamps so they can be battery powered but switched on an off remotely from the wings. Any ideas how I can do this?

Replacing the wick with, say, a 9v battery pack and light bulb is simple enough, it's the remote switching I need help with.

Thanks!

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Wireless DMX is good if you can afford it...it works a treat, but I'm not sure how easy it is to get hold of. I used it on a panto, but got lucky in that one of our crew had built his own! If that's not an option, I have seen a smoke machine operated with a garage door opener, but never saw exactly how it was done. Might be worth a look.
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For an upcoming production of Ayckbourn's Snake In The Grass I need to adapt two hurricane lamps so they can be battery powered but switched on an off remotely from the wings. Any ideas how I can do this?

Replacing the wick with, say, a 9v battery pack and light bulb is simple enough, it's the remote switching I need help with.

Thanks!

 

Hi Jeremy,If you are a elctronics person (or know someone)try taking apart a cheep wireless doorbell they have coding and a output than can be used for switching the lamp and the button is allready packaged.

 

hope it helps

 

Guy Douglas

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A friend built one similar to how dbuckley suggested, however I think ours was a really cheap RC car, so I believe the lamp was wired directly in place of the motor (as opposed to servos). Range wasn't particularly great, but it worked, watch out for the Faraday cage effect if the aerial is in the fuel tank. Ours had to be non destructive, so ended up as a cylinder strapped on the bottom IIRC.

 

PN

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A friend built one similar to how dbuckley suggested, however I think ours was a really cheap RC car, so I believe the lamp was wired directly in place of the motor (as opposed to servos). Range wasn't particularly great, but it worked, watch out for the Faraday cage effect if the aerial is in the fuel tank. Ours had to be non destructive, so ended up as a cylinder strapped on the bottom IIRC.

 

PN

 

either that or you can buy similar to one of these,

 

http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/part...d%2Btorches.htm

http://www.shop.edirectory.co.uk/autosave/...&afid=88888

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CAMPING-LANTERN-LAMP...1QQcmdZViewItem

 

and just rip the insides out!

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And being IR, it will need line-of-sight, be fairly short range and easily overwhelmed by other bright IR sources.

Theatre lamps, for example.

 

I would definately stay away from the dirt cheap IR and wideband radio kits.

 

A decent R/C aeroplane speed controller with miniature receiver and a standard transmitter is probably your best bet.

You want a 40MHz set with interchangeable crystals.

 

40MHz is one of the three licence-free bands for hobby remote control - the other two being 27MHz (shared with CB radios) and 35MHz (assigned to R/C aircraft only.

 

The interchangable crystal sets (main manufacturers are Hitec and Futaba) are narrowband and can be retuned to avoid interference - the cheap tat that just says "27Mhz", "40MHz" etc are wideband and get squished by almost any interference.

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Robert Dyas are doing cheapy wireless doorbell kits, 1 transmitter and two recievers for £9.99. They've got an LED on the front that lights for about 4 seconds when the bell is pressed (and it plays a tune but just snip the wire to the speaker). Perhaps some sort of simple relay latch and that could offer remote switching. Chime units aren't too big but I haven't taken them apart so not sure how big they actually need to be - they take 2 AA batteries.
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