PAR can wiring repairs - suggestions?

[pumphouse]

I have just bought a load of secondhand PAR cans from my local 'big' theatre. Many are fine but some need some wiring repairs largely due to cable breaks at the entry point. Several have non-rewireable ceramic bases (mostly Thomas pars with the external rotator). I noted that one of these has previously been 'repaired' using an in-line bullet crimp type thing which clearly did not fare well in the hot environment. Does anyone have any suggestions for a good way to re-use a non-re-wireable ceramic and join a new cable onto it? My ideas so far:

 

Heat resistant in-line crimp - does such a thing exist?

Ceramic terminal block - would resist the heat but may not be regarded as 'safe' even if the terminals can't be touched

Stop being silly and just go buy a new wiring set from Thomann as they are only a fiver each

 

Any 'repair' method would have additional sleeving on the cables either side of the repair.

 

All cans will also be PAT tested before being put into service, so I don't need reminding about that.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Jason

[ben.suffolk]

I would be happy with your Option 2 (Ceramic terminal block), and you have already said your going to put additional sleeving either side (I assume you mean heat shield sieving) so that should be fine.

 

Ben

[Nicktaylor]

When you add up the manhours as a volunteer, the Thomann option is not much more expensive! Ceramic terminal block, special sleeving etc etc plus time working on it soon adds up.

 

ps If you are buying from Thomann I could do with ten sets and we can split the postage

 

Nick

[knotted]

if you have thomas parcans, james thomas produce replacement wiring sets for them.

[Ynot]

I have just bought a load of secondhand PAR cans from my local 'big' theatre. Many are fine but some need some wiring repairs largely due to cable breaks at the entry point.

Most cost effective method?

Look into buying replacement wiring sets - buy 'em, plug 'em in and leave'em!!

Job done!

(Oh, you'll probably need to put a 15A plug on the other end!!)

[Guest lightnix]

I would be happy with your Option 2 (Ceramic terminal block)

I've seen a number of cans with this arrangement over the years, partly for maintenance, but also to allow for quick lamp changes to PAR lamps with screw terminals, like ACLs. I'm not sure how legal a solution it is, though and would point out that in these cans, the block has been bolted to the inside of the shell. Don't forget also, that the screw terminals will loosen over time, due to thermal cycling and that a small blob of Loctitie 242 on each may be desirable.

 

If you can go this route legally, then don't forget to factor in the cost of the time involved (or the little sticky-out bit it creates on the back of the can). You may find that it's just cheaper (and prettier) to install new, hard-wired ceramics and bung a plug on the tail.

 

PS - Don't forget the "PAR-Safes" (hope that's not teaching my granny to suck eggs) :P

[pumphouse]

Thanks all for the replies.

 

Best solution all round is new wiring sets I think - I'll order some PARSAFEs (yep- had that bit figured out thanks) from Thomann and be done with it I think.

 

Nick - I'll mail you separately.

 

Jason

[Don Allen]

The ceramic terminal block is finger safe and you would have to sleeve the wiring to get two layers of insulation but the PARSAFE is quicker to fit so you save in labour costs and make focusing quicker and easierif it is a commercial job.

 

Only real minus with PARSAFE's is having to fit a plug but if it is an old can, you may have had to replace the plug anyway, especially if it was a 110 volt pair and you are using plastic/nylon plugs.