boatman

20 litre plastic containers (ex-cleaning companies) filled with water? Oh, and they're free!

Well done @Crazy Al it's over 11 years since the design was started and well past the time it was migrated to SM components. Good luck with the migration and if there's anything I can do to help send me a PM. Although I no longer have access to EasyPC which was the original design platform, I do have Kicad.

3 hours ago, Stuart91 said:

Good point. 

If we build a stillage type arrangement it may end up on a mezzanine floor with wood underfoot. But there's plenty concrete elsewhere on the premises and it isn't guaranteed. 

I suspect that with galvanised tube the problem is the tubes chipping the concrete...

 

Wood should be OK, but I think even galvanised tube will suffer end damage on concrete. A lot less than aluminium but the underlying steel isn't hardened.

One thing to be careful of when storing ali tube vertically is end damage. If the floor is concrete put down some padding (6mm rubber sheet is ideal) otherwise the tube ends will suffer.

58 minutes ago, richardash1981 said:

It's the inverse I need - the stand has the spigot on it, I need the hollow bit (receiver?) to go on the light. Probably still not hard to machine from square stock. I don't know if any of the nearby Men's Sheds stretch to metal machining (as opposed to some very good woodwork) but a good idea to ask!
This is the one off the old Italian video light:
https://flic.kr/p/2pi64wJ

So, an M16 connecting nut would be a good place to start. I'll be in the Inverness Men's Shed on Tuesday and I'll see what we've got to hand.

Is this what you are looking for? I turned it many years ago from a chunk of hex bar. The hex end was drilled & tapped to M10 with a bit of studding screwed in (with Loctite). You can make the stud any size you want. If you have a Men's Shed in your locality, give them a call as it's something they should be happy to knock up for you (we do this sort of thing every week in our Shed).

Get in touch with Brian Summers, he's the most likely source of manuals etc.

http://www.tvcameramuseum.org/

On 8/7/2023 at 10:22 PM, sdoconnell92 said:

Hey all, I just found this thread and would love to build some blue com boxes. I wasn't seeing a link to any files in this thread though. Anyone have the schematics?

Sorry I missed this post. here's a link to the zip file for version 1.4.

1 hour ago, Stuart91 said:

... I'm not sure about matching trailing sockets, though. Possibly the ones in the same range, but I haven't tried them myself. 

 

Yes - I'll take a dozen of each please. 

In my last job before I retired we used something very similar to this:

https://bownetcms.co.uk/shop/data-cabinets/19-wall-box-accessories/power-distribution-units-pdu/uk-13a-bs1363-socket-12-way-vertical-rack-mount-pdu/

Quite expensive but very robust. Oh, and it was nearly 20 years ago!

Oooh err, I still have a 2020/2021 trade catalogue. It's probably worth putting it on Fleabay! Seriously though, this is very similar to the box we used for Bluecom and will probably do the trick:

https://cpc.farnell.com/multicomp/mcrecs80/case-aluminium-80x108-5x45mm/dp/EN85413

You might find that adding a couple of general purpose transistors improves the performance.

Yes, the PIC12F629 is still available. You could substitute it with the PIC12HV629 which has a built-in shunt regulator so the 5V regulator can be dumped.

Sorry about the delay in replying here but I have been "sans computer" for a week (WiFi problems). Anyway, in true Blue Peter fashion "Here's One I Made Earlier".

EN2014050261.pdf

Congratulations on your retirement, it sounds like you will be as busy as ever.

If it helps the small blue pot in the second picture is marked "503" which means it is 50k.

2 hours ago, KevinE said:

.... They're all archived on worldradiohistory.com  ....

Thanks for that link. I managed to track down an article I wrote for Television magazine which was published in February 1977. I thought I would never see it again!

No problem, it looks like JST VH series will fit.

A multitool with a metal cutting blade should do the job.

https://www.toolstation.com/dewalt-dcs356-18v-xr-multi-tool-3-speed/p98472

https://www.toolstation.com/bosch-expert-starlock-carbide-metal-plunge-cut-multi-tool-blade/p98073

Did you measure the pin pitch on the PCB headers?

They look like JST VH series (3.96mm pitch). Try this link:

https://www.mattmillman.com/info/crimpconnectors/common-jst-connector-types/#vh

17 hours ago, alistermorton said:

I dropped the OP a PM saying there were a lot of suggestions.  Back came the reply "Which are?". I suggested checking back and getting involved with the discussions. We'll see. 

Ah, the innate laziness of modern youth rears its head (not to mention insolence).

Google for "TV Simulator". There's a few on Amazon at £14.99.

2 hours ago, sunray said:

Hi Tim

That has taken me a bit by surprise. I set up a second bluecom system in a rush for cue lights into into dressing room without a termination, I can't say we noticed any difference.

The system was piggy backed on the intercom but didn't include pin 3

There are two circuits in the Bluecom power pack. Each circuit has an audio termination in the power pack but, if they are joined together using the "Common" button, one of the audio terminations is removed so there is still only one termination.

37 minutes ago, Brian said:

Hardly unnamed as my name is on every sheet!!!!!!!!!

Hmmm, sorry I didn't look before I posted. Just zipped them up.

If it helps, when I was developing the BlueCom system, another Blue-Room member traced the circuit of a Stonewood CBP1. I believe it's identical to the Metro Audio beltpack. You'll need to use some scissors and sellotape but it's all there. Not wishing to implicate anyone in copyright busting, I'll leave it to the unnamed member to own up if they are so inclined!

CBP1.zip