boatman

I still have five version 1.1 power unit PCBs (with minor surgery), three version 1 power unit panels, a single version 2 beltpack panel and a complete version 1.1 beltpack board (built and tested).

 

The boards and panels are available for only £3 each + £2.50 postage (within the UK) for any number. The complete beltpack board is £30 + £5 postage (recorded delivery within the UK).

 

Photos below. Click on any picture for a larger version.

 

http://mydesk.myzen.co.uk/_Useful/BlueCom/BluecomPsu1_1a_wee.jpg http://mydesk.myzen.co.uk/_Useful/BlueCom/BluecomPsu1_1b_wee.jpg http://mydesk.myzen.co.uk/_Useful/BlueCom/BluecomPsu1_1c_wee.jpg http://mydesk.myzen.co.uk/_Useful/BlueCom/BluecomBpPanel_wee.jpg http://mydesk.myzen.co.uk/_Useful/BlueCom/BluecomBpFinished_wee.jpg

Yes, BlueCom works fine with both Tecpro and Stonewood (Granite) beltpacks. I had a test system using two each of all three types together and it worked perfectly. There have been several iterations of the schematic, the latest being version 1.3 (see here), which has the four-pole 3.5mm socket available on a four-pin header for your own connection. Earlier versions were connected as: Tip + Ring 1 - Headphone out, Ring 2 Mic & Sleeve - GND. Note that there is a DC offset of half the supply rail on the headphone output on that socket. It really needs a large decoupling capacitor, which is why version 1.3 was introduced.

 

As a result of the requests of Blue-Roomers, there are three unique features in BlueCom which you won't find in the other systems. Firstly, the mic gain is switchable over a considerable range to accommodate different mic types. Secondly, the low impedance headset capability is because there is bridge amplifier driving the output. It means the headset volume will go much higher. Finally, there is an offset in the volume control (R37) which if set to a higher value than the 10R on the schematic will limit the minimum headset volume so that it can't be turned down to zero.

 

Sorry, I don't have any blank PCBs available but, I know of several sets which have been built and there may be some around. Otherwise, the PCBs can be ordered from iTead in China very cheaply.

 

I hope that helps.

It my be a silly question, but have you tried contacting Soundcraft to buy the real thing? Their spares service is excellent and not overpriced.

 

As you appear to be in Australia you need to contact Jeff Bolt at the Jands Pty office in Mascot NSW.

 

Link

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That's the nasty little 3 pins in a row thing isn't it? Best thing to do with it is drill a hole in the back panel and fit a proper connector. Horrid little thing...

 

Yep, that's the one. The last time I had to fix a Folio, I replaced it with one of these.

You can find the service manual for the Soundcraft Spirit 8-channel desk here:

 

http://elektrotanya.com/soundcraft_spirit_fx8_f1-8.pdf/download.html

 

The other variants are all based on the same modules.

 

The power supply schematic is on page 6 and shows that the external supply is simply 18-0-18 AC. It's very easy to build a replacement but not so easy to find the appropriate 3-pin female plastic connector!

Just to let you all know that Jose in Chile (jmvbmw) now has a working system! Bluecom Rules The World!

 

The oscillations turned out to be due to a solder bridge on one beltpack and the level problems were a lack of a termination on the line. He had built a power unit with only half the components using the XLRs at the rear of the unit and omitting the push switch. That meant the termination was not connected to the line and a link was required between pins 4 & 5 of the push button footprint. Once we got that sorted out and the method of sidetone adjustment, it all came good.

Have a look at post #212 immediately above yours.

There are some power unit PCBs and panels available here.

In order that the problems with the four-pole jack are resolved, I have modified the schematic and the PCB to version 1.3. The four-pole jack is now only connected to a 4-pin 0.1" header situated between the jack socket and the headset gain control. This leaves the constructor plenty of leeway to connect the jack socket however they wish. If large DC blocking capacitors are required they can be mounted between the 8-pin KK connector and the 4-pin header.

 

Nothing else has changed in the schematic or the layout so it should all work OK, but I must emphasise that it hasn't been tested.

 

Have fun.

BluecomBeltpack1_3Schematic.pdf

BluecomBeltpack1_3Placement.pdf

BluecomBeltpack1_3Gerbers.zip

I have received a good suggestion from someone who has built a set of beltpacks and used them successfully for a panto season. The idea is to bring the pins of the 4-pole front panel connector to a header so that they can be internally wired as needed. All the pins would be isolated from any other connection and the user would have to decide how best to connect them.

 

It seems like the ideal solution to me as it diverts the responsibility for making the 4-pole jack socket work to somebody else (I'm getting too old to worry about this sort of stuff)!

 

I will investigate, see what can be done and maybe there will be a set of Gerber files for version 1.3 soon.

Has anyone had any joy using the 4pole 3.5mm jack with a headset yet?

 

I just plugged in a phone headset I had kicking around and it burnt out R8 as soon as it was plugged in.

 

Thanks

Andrew

 

From reading the other thread where there is a dedicated discussion on PC headsets (that I found after posting on this one), what I gathered was that it seems to be a wiring problem that causes the burnout of the resistor.

 

The 4 pin socket on the beltpack is wired to the + and - side of the bridged amp on pins 1 and 2, but the headsets don't really work that way. Pin 1 feeds left and pin 2 feeds right, and they (along with the mic) all have a common ground.

 

The suggestion was to use a little adaptor to connect both the left and right sides of the headset to the amp + (tip of the socket) and ignore the - side of the amp and accept a little drop in level. As the other user who has made these (Heironymus) has used PC headsets with his system (granted through two TRS jacks rather than the TRRS, but with the same type of wiring as I've described) and it seems to have worked OK for him, I assume this is the best way?

 

Also, while you're making the adaptor as I said on the other post you will have to watch out for pins 3 and 4, the beltpack is wired the traditional way with mic on pin 3 (the second ring) and ground on pin 4. But Apple seem to have changed that and almost all headsets now have have these two reversed.

 

k

 

If anyone can give me a definitive schematic of how that socket should be wired, I'll create version 1.3 and generate a set of Gerber files for PCB manufacture.

To get a higher level than a standard comms beltpack, the current design uses a bridge output amp which works fine with standard headsets. The 4-pole jack socket is just paralleled with the XLR headset connector but, as I didn't have any compatible headsets, I never tested it. It might need a large electrolytic capacitor (~100uF) to isolate the DC component of the bridge output from the 4-pole jack. Board space is limited so it wouldn't be easy to change the layout to accommodate such a capacitor. If you have a better way of connecting the 4-pole jack socket I'll see if it's possible to modify the PCB.

 

The Blue-Room marketing department don't currently stock blank PCBs for this project so if you want to build one you'll have to get boards made (or ask here to see if anyone has some left over).

I was having a clear-out and came across six version 1.1 Power Unit PCBs and four version 1 Power Unit panels. They have all had minor surgery but will work OK. These boards and panels are available for only £5 each + £2.50 postage (within the UK) for any number. Photos below. Click on any picture for a larger version.

 

http://mydesk.myzen.co.uk/_Useful/BlueCom/BluecomPsu1_1a_wee.jpg http://mydesk.myzen.co.uk/_Useful/BlueCom/BluecomPsu1_1b_wee.jpg http://mydesk.myzen.co.uk/_Useful/BlueCom/BluecomPsu1_1c_wee.jpg

 

P.S. One PCB already has SK1, D1 & D2 fitted.

Thanks to BR member 'pmiller056' for producing a set of drawings and instructions for making laminated paper panels for the Bluecom beltpack. The zip file is attached and here are the instructions:

 

I have chosen to make the front and rear panels in a different way from the original design. In the attached zip file there

are 4 photos showing the finished panels, 4 pdf files for printing and 2 original source files in svg format. The svg files

are editable with 'inkscape' which is a free download (gpl licence). If you are printing from the pdf's make sure that all

print scaling is turned off. All dimensions have been taken from the original gerber files and are in inches. Do not solder

the 'Call' pushbutton to the PCB until the panel is made - the pushbutton is not a firm fit in the PCB and is easily

soldered into a place where it does not go through the panel hole correctly.

 

Cut the 'drilling' images to the outer border and stick them onto the blank panels with spray-on glue. Note that the specified

box has slightly asymmetric panels. Photo mounting spray glue works well, carpet tile glue can be hard to use tidily. Use

this as a template for cutting and drilling holes. Taping the print to the panel edges instead of glueing will not work

accurately as the paper will distort when holes are drilled and filed through it. After the panel has had all the holes cut,

remove all the paper and glue residue with a suitable solvent.

 

Print the 'Finished' images onto a slightly grey coloured paper and cut to the border. Laminate the cut images in an office

laminating machine using a matt finish pouch. Cut the laminated prints down to slightly smaller (1-2mm) than the blank

panel size but leaving the paper sealed so that the edges and corners don't catch and peel. Stick these cut down

laminated prints with spray-on glue to the cut and drilled blank panels. Where holes are required, cut through the

laminated paper with a sharp scalpel or similar. Assemble the panels and complete your good-looking project.

 

This process can be used for other home made projects and produces durable, good looking panels. If there is a bezel

or other means of hiding the panel edge, then the laminated print can be cut to the panel edges. As can be seen from

the photos I've chosen to omit the front panel jack socket and use an alternative headset connector to suit my

application. Edit the svg files provided using 'inkscape' for your own purposes.

Bluecom_Panels_pmiller056.zip

They are two layer boards with top and bottom solder masks and top silk screen. The dimensions are 3.95 inches by 3.13 inches or in modern money 100.33 mm by 79.5mm.

 

If you tell the manufacturer it's 100mm by 80mm, they'll be happy enough, but if you say it's over 100mm you might go into the next price bracket.

 

 

One suggestion is twin 3.5mm stereo jacks for the front panel headset instead of the existing 4-pole jack. This will allow PC compatible headsets to be used. A stacked jack would be fine, but is rather an obscure component; so side-by-side jacks are probably going to be needed. There is a requirement for an extra 100uF capacitor so that PC compatible headsets can be used with one half of the bridge amplifier and not have a 12V DC bias on the signal. Obviously this will reduce the headset volume considerably but BR member Hieronymous has found the level OK.

 

 

I guess that I missed this post. I don't recal the PC headset MIC not having the 12V bias. I thought I actually used it. The gain was more then enough though. Also a 12V DC bias is more then a PC motherboard will supply. I'll have some notes on this, so I will check it later next week.

 

The 12VDC bias mentioned in that post is on the headphone output (to ground) if you only use one half of the output bridge amp as there is no isolating capacitor in the original design. I think you added additional flying 100uF caps to solve the problem. The mic input does have a switchable 12VDC bias available.

It looks like we have a flurry of people with time on their hands at the moment and they all want to be building Bluecom boxes. If you are having PCBs made at iTead you need to rename some files before sending them for manufacture. So there's no more confusion here's a list of renames you need to make.

 

xxxxx - Top Silk.gbr -> xxxxx.GTO

xxxxx - Top Mask.gbr -> xxxxx.GTS

xxxxx - Top Copper.gbr -> xxxxx.GTL

xxxxx - Bottom Copper.gbr -> xxxxx.GBL

xxxxx - Bottom Mask.gbr -> xxxxx.GBS

xxxxx - Drill Data - Through Hole.drl -> xxxxx.TXT

 

The other two files "xxxxx - Drill Ident Drawing - Through Hole.gbr" and "xxxxx - Drill Data - Through Hole (Unplated).drl" are not required by iTead, but may be required by other PCB manufacturers.

 

If you are having the separate panels made by iTead you need "Top Mask", "Top Copper" and "Through Hole (Unplated)" files only (appropriately renamed) and you also need to explain to them that there is NO etching on the copper and the final board should be plated.

 

If you are having paired panels made by iTead you also need the "Top Silk.gbr" file (renamed as .GTO) as this will give you the guidelines for sawing the panels apart. ITead Studio do not have the facility to use the "V-Groove" Gerber files as this is intended for more specialised PCB manufactures who can mark the panels with a v-groove for snapping apart.

 

Although the PCB front and back panels do look rather swanky, they are relatively expensive (compared to the main boards) as they are larger than the iTead 100mm x 100mm size limit and fall into the next price bracket.

 

I hope that helps everyone who is building Bluecom units in the near future.

I have a bit of time between shows and I have a big pile of components waiting to be built into a Bluecom set, so it is time to order some PCBs and then get on with it!

 

I have a couple of questions about the ITEAD file renaming etc though if anyone can help!

 

Their website specifies the following Gerber files needed for 2-layer PCB boards:

• Top layer: pcbname.GTL
• Bottom layer: pcbname.GBL
• Solder Stop Mask top: pcbname.GTS
• Solder Stop Mask Bottom pcbname.GBS
• Silk Top: pcbname.GTO
• Silk Bottom pcbname.GBO
• NC Drill: pcbname.TXT
• Outline layer: pcbname.GKO

I have downloaded the BluecombeltpackV1_2.rar file and renamed the Silkscreen, Top and Bottom Copper and Mask files as they have suggested, but am not sure about the drill files. Which of the three drill files in the .rar file should be renamed to the TXT file, and what should I do with the others? Likewise, should there be a outline layer file so that the boards can be cut to size?

 

Sorry for the silly questions - Last time I needed custom PCBs it involved messing about with Ferric Choride!

 

Any help much appreciated!

 

For Itead, you don't need a separate board outline file as it's contained within the copper layers. The right drill file is "BluecomBeltpack - Drill Data - Through Hole.drl". The other two are a drill ident drawing and and a drill file for unplated holes which isn't needed.

 

Hope that helps.

I had all the prototype boards made by ITead Studio. Currently, you get 10 boards for less than $20 + delivery (even cheaper than when I got them) and very quick turnaround.

 

Link

 

PS you need to rename the Gerber files according to the ITead requirements.

 

I too have a pair of packs now finished, with parts laid out for another 2 just as soon as I get some spare time. Once I tracked down (ha!) a faulty etching on the boards they burst in to life and are behaving very well.

 

Now that we have two users (with a third on the way) it will great to get some feedback on the panel layout. We may need one more spin on both the beltpack board and panels to get it right.

 

One suggestion is twin 3.5mm stereo jacks for the front panel headset instead of the existing 4-pole jack. This will allow PC compatible headsets to be used. A stacked jack would be fine, but is rather an obscure component; so side-by-side jacks are probably going to be needed. There is a requirement for an extra 100uF capacitor so that PC compatible headsets can be used with one half of the bridge amplifier and not have a 12V DC bias on the signal. Obviously this will reduce the headset volume considerably but BR member Hieronymous has found the level OK.

 

Any other suggestions for improving the front panel layout will certainly be considered.

 

 

I do feel that the front panel LEDs on the Power Unit should be swapped so that the "Link" switch & LED are close to the edge of the panel and the "Power" LED for Loop 1 is next to the XLRs, but it works as it is and probably isn't worth the effort of changing.

 

 

Cracking work guys!

 

Thanks.

Thanks for the feedback. It's great to know that it functions well in a real live event and that the gaming headsets are a success. Please let us know what you think we could improve and we'll see what is possible.

Looking good.

I am very keen to build a set once the design is mature. Are there still plans to commission a batch of PCBs?

 

The design is about as mature as it's going to be, so start building. There is a minor issue with the pin-out of the 4-pole jack socket on the front panel. It was only added as an afterthought to the schematic in September last year and nobody commented or made any suggestions on the pin-out in the intervening six months (until today) so we assumed it was OK. Anyway, there seem to be solutions to the problem that has arisen.

 

The original concept was that the design should be available through the Blue-Room marketing thus providing an income stream to help finance the server. I don't have any input to that area so cannot comment further.

... and finally here is a zip file of all the documentation for the Bluecom project. Sorry that it's taken so long to complete this, but there have been a number of unforeseen interruptions in the process. I hope someone will go through everything and check that it's all OK. I've been looking at it for so long now that I don't see the errors any more!

 

All of the designs are done in Easy PC version 17. If anyone would like copies of the design files for this project please contact me off-list.

 

Have fun.

 

BluecomAllDocsV1_2.zip

Will anyone be doing a bulk order of the board's and panels for the belt pack?

 

Thanks

 

Andrew

 

One of the main points of this project was to provide an income stream for the Blue-Room, so I hope that happens.

 

I've been out of commission for several weeks but am now back, so I will finalise all the documentation in the next few days and put it into one big zip file which will be uploaded to the Project Zone. There has been a change to the panels for the power unit to give them a similar appearance to the beltpack panels, otherwise the rest of the files are OK. There is one minor error on the power unit parts list where one connector is described as NC3AAH and should be NC3FAAH2. The supplier code is correct.

I have been asked for DXF files of the panels. The PCB layout software has a DXF output facility, so here they are. I cannot guarantee the accuracy of them as I don't have any means of viewing them.

 

BluecomPanelsDxf.zip