timsabre

4 pins will probably be positive power, then negative R, G, B. The driver box just switching the negative side of the power to the LEDs. As musht says your X-power driver is a constant current driver for six 1W-type LEDs in series. It won't work to drive 12V or 24V constant voltage LED.

Usually with tarps the eyelets rip out before the fixings fail anyway.

Not really. I get involved in a lot of church AV installs where the standard advice has previously been to hot glue cabling to the wall to avoid damaging the ancient stonework by hammering in cable clips. Mostly this runs down the side wall of the building where it would not be a hazard to anyone if it fell to the floor. But where it crosses a doorway or walkway or corridor, they have changed the advice to use metal fire clips or metal trunking. It's just going back to the old chestnut of assessing the risk in each situation - the intention of that regulation is to avoid firefighters becoming entangled in fallen cabling during rescues (as happened a few times). I think the OP was really thinking about falling equipment. I have seen plenty of stuff ratchet-strapped to trees and things, which has the same problem with fire resistance, also cable ties are widely used in temporary staging for securing tarps and small bits of structure etc. If the cable ties are appropriately sized and it isn't going to fall on someone in a fire then I would think it's OK.

I would recommend going with something DMX. There is nothing "mains dimmed" that will fade smoothly to black, if that's what you are looking for. You don't say how bright or big it needs to be but I have seen these Eurolite fixtures used as houselights (just an example supplier). They have 2x35W led, light output is about equivalent to a 300W par56 fixture and beam angle is also similar to a par56 MFL. https://www.bax-shop.co.uk/led-bar/eurolite-led-cbb-2-cob-ww-bar

Does this unit have a fluid sensor module on the end of the pipe, if so check for damage to the sensor or wiring, and give the sensor a good cleanout with deionised water and/or isopropanol.

That machine has to take the prize for having the most unintuitive user interface on any DMX device ever. Although Ayrton fixtures have a pretty weird menu system too.

Also, aside from the electrical power considerations, you may need to reconfigure the dimmer's control circuitry in some way to work on single phase if it has been previously used on three phase. The trigger timing for the triacs is different for 3 phase power - some dimmers handle this automatically but some need PCB jumpers or software/menu options to be changed. Like Sunray I cannot find any info on these dimmers so it's difficult to know how old they are.

So like a lightbox then with the tape all round? If you can make the frames with a bit of a reveal round the front so the LEDs are concealed from view, you will make your job easier with the diffusion. Paint the inside matt white. If you can, give them a reasonable depth (e.g. 60mm) for the light to bounce around in, as it will look more even.

yes the question is not very clear... if you are ditching MA altogether and just want a basic lighting controller running on a Pi triggered by streamdeck, then QLC+ will do that. However you will need to program the lighting from scratch on QLC+ and if you are used to MA you will find programming a bit of a challenge, like you've gone back a decade or so.

What are you actually trying to make and what is the diffuser for?

Um... is there anything else you'd like to tell us about your setup which would help our answers? OBS can pretty much do everything V-Mix can, but it depends what else you are doing with V-Mix. Searching the vmix forum it looks like you can do this within V-mix with a bit of messing about, using the source rotation function (click settings cog for the input) https://forums.vmix.com/default.aspx?g=posts&t=2280

OBS could do this using a plugin - see https://obsproject.com/forum/resources/corner-pin.1474/

Happy to talk you through Artnet if you want, PM me. It requires a bit of a shift in thinking but is very straightforward once you get your head round how it works.

Wled is great but I don't know of a complete thing you can buy. You need to be happy with how to burn firmware into an esp32 and assembling shields etc. It's a steep learning curve if you've not done it before.

No, your link does not work

I'm not sure how the first unit Alister suggested works as it's only got standard DMX in which limits it to 170 pixels if every pixel is independently controlled. But if that's enough for you it would be a good solution.

I assume he wants to keystone a capture of his computer screen. OBS is a good suggestion. But would need a second screen to run obs while the other screen is being captured.

I assume you mean pixel tape? The problem with controlling pixel tape by DMX is it uses up DMX universes like they are going out of fashion because every pixel takes 3 DMX channels. So unless you have a massive lighting desk you need some sort of macro pattern controller for the tape where you just tell it to do a pattern using a few DMX channels, and the controller goes off and does it. examples - enttec pixie or pixelator https://www.enttec.co.uk/range/pixel/pixel-control/ I've designed one for Abstract but I'm not sure if they are buyable at the moment https://www.digitaltape.co.uk/about-pixels If you are into homebrew there are quite a lot of projects using Arduino or ESP32 to control pixels e.g. Wled https://kno.wled.ge/ will take Artnet over wifi

John, your setup looks really good and gets some nice shots. I would really recommend adding a stereo pair of ambience mics into your audio mix for the songs which lets people at home hear the congregation singing and helps them feel more part of the service, it's surprising the difference this makes to the "feel" of the livestream. We meet in a school hall and have to set up and derig each week. All equipment and cabling has to be put in and removed so this limits what is feasible to do - I have 3 android phones running Droidcam on cheap PTZ mounts from Amazon. The phones run off USB power banks and connect to OBS over wifi (we have to bring our own 4G wifi router as well as the school will not allow us to connect to their network). This allows all 3 cameras to be wireless which really reduces the setup and derig time. The wifi links sometimes drop a few frames but the intention is just to allow church members who are at home due to illness etc to join in, so I consider the balance of effort/quality is acceptable. Sound is fed from our XR16 with a couple of old Tandy PZM mics for room ambience, the ambience feed is gated on the XR16 using a control signal from the piano so that when someone plays the piano for a song, the ambience mics automatically turn up, then reduce again at the end of the song to make the talky bits less echoey.

I'd guesss the manufacturer bought a job lot that didn't fit the PCB

Thanks Samtex that is really interesting to know how others do it. That looks like a nice camera, what is the PTZ movement like - e.g. can you make slow moves with it when you realise that the person speaking is a bit taller than you expected? Where did you buy it from? As you say it is definitely worth having a PC with nvidia card to use the NVENC option in OBS. We added a suitable graphics card into our streaming PC which dropped the CPU load from 65% (dropping frames sometimes) down to 10%.

It depends what you are doing, for a village hall disco as specified by the original post, where you just want fluorescent colours to "pop" then the LED stuff is fine and the purple visible light output wouldn't really matter. Those fixtures originally suggested would not cover a 16x10m hall though, you'd need a lot more than 4 of them. I agree if you are trying to do a panto blacklight scene (does anyone do these any more?) the visible light output from UV LED would spoil the effect.

Thanks for coming back with the results. What is your camera just out of interest and what delay do you get on the picture? What are you recording onto? I am also recording and livestreaming our church services but I'm using surplus Android phones with Droidcam into OBS.

Post a photo of the faulty PSU module. Unless it is something esoteric with many different outputs, there will probably be some generic module you can replace it with.

I have used one in a sensory room setup, beam spread is massive but (as a result) they are not very bright. The sensory room was about 16ft square with a low 8ft ceiling and the effect was good in there, with no other light on and the fixture in the centre of the ceiling. How big is your village hall? As Hippy says if this is a one off you would do better hiring something a bit more powerful.