Parsafe

[Ekij]

I've come across much reference to "Parsafe", some item that appears to be connected to the back of a par-can possibly to the lamp itself, but I can't seem to find an answer to the question "What (exactly) is a parsafe". There are about 40 topics that refer to one but in all cases they say "parsafe" and assume we all know what that is.

Can anyone explain what one is is (or even better post a pic of one)?

[bright spark]

Basically, you know on some parcans, to move the lamp round you have to stick your hand in the hole at the back??

 

With a parsafe, there is a black bit that sticks out of the hole as a 'handle' this you use to turn the lamp, it stops burns basically. There may be some other extra safety features???

[3guk]

I thought it double insulated thelamp and fixture ? Am I miss informed?

[Ynot]

I thought it double insulated thelamp and fixture ? Am I miss informed?

You're both right in essence. It isolates the operator from a) the heat of the bubble (to a point) and b) more importantly the electrical contacts inside the lantern.

 

First hit on Google gives you THIS.

The insulated black bit pokes thru the hole in the back of the par can.

 

TD

[Stu]

It really depends on which one you purchase.

 

The DTS ones are apparantly Class II (the ceramic and wiring is encased in a big lump of plastic), therefore you don't require an earth. However, you might still think that you'd still like your Par to be earthed, so they are also available in a 3 core version so you can make an earth bond to the casing. The DTS parsafe extrudes from the back of the fixture.

 

The other two that you mostly see about are the Thomas ones (famed for being crap really) which are a kind of star shaped handle on the back attached to a metal disk which rotates around the top lip on the rear of the par which then graps the normal Thomas ceramic inside on a couple of metal clips - and the ones that Stage Electrics, Whitelight etc use, it's a kind of long black rectangle which sits inside the par, not sure who makes them. As far as I know both of these versions are Class I appliances and require an earth.

 

Anyway it doesn't just stop burns (fingers on hot ceramics) but also the possability of electrocution. The older pars used to have oval shaped ceramics which could sometimes be rewired, so had screws in to hold the top to the body of the ceramic. If these failed, then you ran the chance of the ceramic top become loose and exposing live bare metal - the obvious can then occur. It hurts. Alot, been there done it. They also had single insulated wiring running to the live & neutral, so if this became brittel then again you run the risk of electrocution.

 

Nowadays if you buy the Thomas ones (for example) without the lamp rotators (wise idea if you ask me) then the live and neutral running to the base is covered in a second layer of insulation, thus reducing the risk there.

 

Anyway, rabbeted on now! HTH

Stu

[paulears]

The nasty ceramic ones are still about, but often have a mess welded accross the opening to stop you getting in - I was foccusing a bar a few weeks ago and one parcan was this type, but some berk had pulled the grill off, and I found out the hard way - I took it down and threw the whole thing in a temper into the bin, including frame, clap and lamp!