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moving head problem


pedroborges

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Posted
I’m no expert on mover by any means but you may just need to ‘peak’ the lamp. i.e. adjusting the alignment of the lamp housing (if this is possible) such that the bulb is directly aligned with the lens. This did the trick with a dim Mac 250 I had once
Posted
when you send the lamp on command do you hear a click? have you checked the lamp holder for signs of arcing? with a multimeter you should read 90volts approx. ac. can you swop out the ignitor? can you swop out the power factor capacitor, all these things will affect lamp strike, also check the lamp cables head to base ballast for continuity.
Posted

Hi

 

Don't attempt to read the voltage across the ballast whilst you strike the lamp, you will damage your multimeter.

 

It would help us if you told us what fixture it was.

 

All the best

Timmeh

Posted

Thanks,

I already checked the continuity of the ballast and the lamp holder and everything is ok.

switching on the moving head lights up in low light.

what test is it possible to do with the multimeter to see if it is from ignitor or ballast ?

 

 

 

if you turn the igniter off I can measure with the multimeter lamp socket and it has to be the 90 volts ac ?

Posted

Unless you know exactly what you're doing and understand discharge lamps properly, which it's clear you don't, then you should not be attempting to measure anything inside the head. On most moving head lights there is a connection in the side arm where you can measure more safely (the voltage here still being dangerous but in the order of hundreds rather than thousands of volts). At this connector you should see about 90 volts once the lamp has struck and either zero or full mains voltage when it hasn't. In fact you have a schematic on the ignitor - the connector I refer to is in the N and B wires.

 

I think it is more likely, however, that your problem is simply alignment of the lamp or the ballast settings. Discharge lamps (with magnetic ballasts) usually come on ok or not at all and the two common ways for them to give low output are if the ballast is set for the wrong mains voltage or the lamp is simply in the wrong place. Did you try adjusting the lamp as was suggested? That should definitely be your first step.

Posted

THE MOVING HEADS WERE WORKING. PAST A TIME IN THE LIGHT I GIVE OF GIVING.

 

I THOUGHT THAT IT WAS THE LAMP.

 

THEN CAN I MEASURE THE MULTIMETER BETWEEN IGNITOR B AND N TERMINALS?

 

BETWEEN THOSE TERMINALS HAVE TO BE 90 VOLTS AC ?

 

 

 

 

IGNITOR LINK WITH BETTER IMAGE QUALITY: https://imgur.com/a/pYDthVG

 

ON THE BALLAST TO A WIRE THAT IS CONNECTED IN THE L, then to another wire that is connected at 230 v 60 Hz and then to another wire that is connected at 230 50 Hz

the links are made like this. is that how they should be ? they were previously working well , so that from one moment to the next stopped giving birth and bought a new lamp and the low light

 

 

  • 1 month later...
Posted
I measured the voltage between the ignitor wire N and the ignitor L by disconnecting the ignitor wire to make the measurement and gave 230 volts ac
Posted

Hello

 

I'm a moving light service tech, Ive worked on many brands of fixtures,

 

Firstly As stated above do not measure the igniter circuit after or while you are striking your lamp,

 

Firstly we need more information, what brand and model of fixture is this?

 

Things to ascertain

 

Is the focal path clean, easy enough to do and makes a big difference,

 

Is the lamp good, have you got another unit to put the lamp in to try or vice versa another lamp to put in it.

 

If the lamps striking I feel its unlikely to be an ignitor problem, Id try a difference ballast first.

 

as people have said above the more information you can give us the easier this will be to get to the bottom of

 

 

 

 

 

 

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