Nexo PS8 TD Controller

[Yorkie]

Our church in Sheffield has a PS8 TD Controller which was discovered to be dead this morning. It's been part of the install for 10+ years so is long out of warranty. To begin with I've opened it up; there are no obvious skid-marks or crispy bits. The fuse on the power supply part of the board is open circuit, so I have ordered some replacement fuses to arrive in a couple of days. I'm not expecting a new fuse to fix the problem though, as fuses tend not to blow for no reason. If anyone reading this can help answer the following questions, we would be immensely grateful. Other relevant suggestions welcome too.

* Are there any other things I should be checking inside the controller?

* Who in Yorkshire or nearby is good at repairing these items?

* Who could hire us a spare for a couple of weeks if this one needs to go for repair?

* Apart from eBay who might supply a replacement?

* Is there any other piece of kit we could substitute for the controller? Suspect not but thought it worth asking anyway.

 

Thanks all

 

Dave/Yorkie

[Bazz339]

What are you using the system for and are you using the sub bass out ?

 

 

This Behringer graphic has a mono sub bass out with adjustable frequency and might tide you over until you can get the controller repaired or replaced. If you have a digital desk you may be able to sort something using any eq that may have available on the outputs.

I am not sure what if any dynamic treatment the controller would provide.

 

You will probably need to be careful with level as you will have lost any protection the controller may provide.

 

I sold a couple of PS10 controllers for aboout £150 a piece on eBay a while back if that is any sort of guide.

[gw0udm]

Our church in Sheffield has a PS8 TD Controller which was discovered to be dead this morning. It's been part of the install for 10+ years so is long out of warranty. To begin with I've opened it up; there are no obvious skid-marks or crispy bits. The fuse on the power supply part of the board is open circuit, so I have ordered some replacement fuses to arrive in a couple of days. I'm not expecting a new fuse to fix the problem though, as fuses tend not to blow for no reason. If anyone reading this can help answer the following questions, we would be immensely grateful. Other relevant suggestions welcome too.

* Are there any other things I should be checking inside the controller?

* Who in Yorkshire or nearby is good at repairing these items?

* Who could hire us a spare for a couple of weeks if this one needs to go for repair?

* Apart from eBay who might supply a replacement?

* Is there any other piece of kit we could substitute for the controller? Suspect not but thought it worth asking anyway.

 

Thanks all

 

Dave/Yorkie

 

 

I would strongly suspect the power supply capacitors here. I've had all sorts of odd faults with rack gear and almost every time it is because one or other of the big electrolytic capacitors has become deformed and as a result the voltages in to the solid state electronics are out of tolerance and produce odd behaviour. This might well account for the main fuse blowing as well. Can you see any evidence of bulging on the capacitors anywhere? They are cheap enough, so it might be worth replacing a few before going any further and see if there is any improvement.

 

I've recently had this with a network switch, but over the years with many other devices.

 

See https://gw0udm.wordpress.com/2016/11/12/repairing-a-dynamode-sw240010-r-switch/

 

James

[Yorkie]

Thanks both. In the end a replacement fuse seems to have solved the problem - 2 Sundays now incident free on the new fuse. I am going to relocate the fuse to a fuseholder on the front panel in due course as that will allow a quicker fix next time this happens.

 

James - I was hoping to find a bulging capacitor inside in the first place as that would give me an obvious component to replace. It wasn't the case however.

 

Research of replacement controllers showed that a working used one would be available for £150+vat+delivery from LMC Audio. A brand new one from Mercury AV would be £400 all in.

[gw0udm]

Thanks both. In the end a replacement fuse seems to have solved the problem - 2 Sundays now incident free on the new fuse. I am going to relocate the fuse to a fuseholder on the front panel in due course as that will allow a quicker fix next time this happens.

 

James - I was hoping to find a bulging capacitor inside in the first place as that would give me an obvious component to replace. It wasn't the case however.

 

Research of replacement controllers showed that a working used one would be available for £150+vat+delivery from LMC Audio. A brand new one from Mercury AV would be £400 all in.

 

Good news - glad you have sorted it. One would hope that kit of this quality would have better specified PSU components than the cheaper stuff which I have been using.

 

We recently bought a 2nd hand one off ebay for about £200 so the price from LMC seems pretty reasonable.

 

James

 

 

[Don Allen]

For info there are three general types of fuse failures.

 

Gentle open circuit, can be due to old age of the fuse, quite often replacing the fuse will solve the problem. Check to make sure the correct rating and type of fuse is fitted. If the fuse specs says thermal or T, then putting a normal fuse will result in the normal fuse blowing due to switch on surges.

 

Fuse goes open circuit, often peeling back due to an overload, it indicates a power supply fault, such as capacitors drying out, usually not visible so you need to test the capacitors, or the capacitors overheating, which is usually visible as a bulging shape. Could be leakage in a switch mode power supply.

 

Fuse is black on the inside due to a short circuit, usually the diode rectifier has gone short circuit. Can be easiest to find and fix, providing the pcb tracks are not damaged.

 

Detailed fuse information Littlefuse .