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Driling out threads on old Strand Lanters, good idea?


BenEdwards

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Hi. some of our old strand lanterns have m10 threads on the yokes. Although this makes everything a little more solid when focusing it seems a real pain in the arse and makes everything more difficult. The other method is nuts, washers and a split washer. This seems a lot better. So was thinking of drilling out the threads. Is this a bad idea? Would it be a 11mm drill I should use?
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In what way does it make "everything more difficult"? I always found that having the hook clamp bolt retained in the yoke made things easier.

 

The outside diameter of an M10 bolt is 10mm, so ideally you need a 10.2mm drill (13/32" is pretty close), but 10.5mm will do. 11mm will be very loose.

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In what way does it make "everything more difficult"? I always found that having the hook clamp bolt retained in the yoke made things easier.

 

Personally I don't like them threaded, I always found the bolt comes loose in the yoke and then you can't lock it off with the wingnut as it can just spin downwards on the bolt. So you end up having to take a spanner up too to tighten the bolt.

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In what way does it make "everything more difficult"? I always found that having the hook clamp bolt retained in the yoke made things easier.

 

The outside diameter of an M10 bolt is 10mm, so ideally you need a 10.2mm drill (13/32" is pretty close), but 10.5mm will do. 11mm will be very loose.

 

It its screwed up all the way the tilt is kind of fixed. If you screw it down a bit it is not locked off, or am I doing it wrong.

 

What nuts/washers etc, are you supposed to use?

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Sounds like you're putting the bolt through the yoke the wrong way.

 

The bolt (and a plain washer) goes "up" through the yoke, then you add another plain washer, the hook clamp, another plain washer, a spring washer then a wing nut.

 

So you have:

 

[bolt head - plain washer - yoke] - plain washer - * - hook clamp - plain washer - spring washer - wing nut

 

When the yoke is threaded, the bit in [...] above is tight.

 

When the yoke isn't threaded then you add "nut - plain washer" at * above and that nut is locked tight.

 

 

 

Then when you rig, you hook over the bar, tighten the wing nut, add the safety bond and you're good to go. No spanners needed.

 

 

My vote goes with boatman, I much prefer the threaded yoke, so I wouldn't be drilling them out - and any 3/8" yokes I retap to M10 :-)

 

Regards,

Kevin

 

 

We discussed mount kits a bit here:

 

http://www.blue-room...showtopic=61045

 

 

But of course, the answer is always, you need a copy of this:

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stage-Lighting-Handbook-Francis-Reid/dp/087830147X

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Maybe just because I'm old, and lazy - I wonder why a few seconds of inconvenience in locking off is worth the aggravation of taking down a pile of kit, drilling it out and putting it back? To my shame I have plenty of lights of ancient vintage with rusting threads. many with hex nuts because in 1975 somebody lost the wing nut. Sure, it's an extra wiggle and often a jam when you turn, but the idea of removing them to ground level, drilling them out, cleaning up the mess and fitting a new decent bolt set means I'll stick with the rusty ones and threaded yokes.
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OK, not going to drill them out. It was I did not know how they were rigged properly. Strangely its not just me, someone hung a few of them (who I thought was very experienced) and they used nuts not wingnuts).

 

Going to dig out the handbook at read it all.

 

Ben

 

Old stage lanterns are 3/8 inch thread. A captive bolt is more productive as it will not fall down inside the fixture.

 

Have hung some Strand Preludes and used M10 bolts. Is this wrong or are they close enough, also I need to order some wingnut.

 

So can I get M10 wingnuts or do I need to get a bunch of 3/8 inch bolts, wingnuts (and possibly washers and split washers).

 

Been using M10 up to now and seems to work fine, am I damaging the threads?

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