Srobo512 Posted October 20, 2016 Share Posted October 20, 2016 Hi, during set up for a show, we found out that our Neutrons XS' DMX box has broken. The power LED lights but not the DMX even when the first fixture in the chain with different cables, address and desk... The hazer itself is working on the manual 'haze' switch. So as far as I can tell there are 3 possible quick solutions to this, 1 of which I'm not certain on but would like some advice please! A) buy another DMX interface (at £150+ not likely!) B) make a xlr cable with a switch on the end which shorts pins 2 + 3 together. (As far as I know these pins are the +12v from the hazer to power the interface and +10 signal from the interface to tell the hazer to switch on?) C) Buy a single channel DMX relay chuck it in a small project box and have a separate interface. Most of the relay board I have seen require a 12V dc supply. so instead of having to buy a specific PSU for it, can I just use the +12v from the hazer to power the board? Then I also take the +12v from the hazer to the NO contact of the relay and +10v signal to the COM of the relay or have I missed something? Thanks in advance! Cheers,Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryson Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 I, on the other hand, have two Neutron XS DMX interfaces, and two broken Neutrons they don't work with anymore. If only you were closer.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonemorf Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 If you can thrash a deal out with srobo, Im in the US on the 3rd Nov for a week, and you could ship domestically to me, and I could forward on domestically here on my return - just an offer if desired.............. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cicero Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 Hi, during set up for a show, we found out that our Neutrons XS' DMX box has broken. The power LED lights but not the DMX even when the first fixture in the chain with different cables, address and desk... The hazer itself is working on the manual 'haze' switch. So as far as I can tell there are 3 possible quick solutions to this, 1 of which I'm not certain on but would like some advice please! A) buy another DMX interface (at £150+ not likely!) B) make a xlr cable with a switch on the end which shorts pins 2 + 3 together. (As far as I know these pins are the +12v from the hazer to power the interface and +10 signal from the interface to tell the hazer to switch on?) C) Buy a single channel DMX relay chuck it in a small project box and have a separate interface. Most of the relay board I have seen require a 12V dc supply. so instead of having to buy a specific PSU for it, can I just use the +12v from the hazer to power the board? Then I also take the +12v from the hazer to the NO contact of the relay and +10v signal to the COM of the relay or have I missed something? Thanks in advance! Cheers,SamHi Sam, Do any LED's light up on the remote? Have you checked all wiring inside from the XLR's to the PCB? Also it may be worth doing a quick test using a multimeter on the 5V shunt regulator in the remote (from labels 0V-5V), to see if thats ok? Option B should work fine, you could just add a switch there. With option C, that 12V output is not a straight tap off the 12V regulator, there is some current limiting, so wont be able to source any decent current unfortunately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Srobo512 Posted November 4, 2016 Author Share Posted November 4, 2016 Hi Sam, Do any LED's light up on the remote? Have you checked all wiring inside from the XLR's to the PCB? Also it may be worth doing a quick test using a multimeter on the 5V shunt regulator in the remote (from labels 0V-5V), to see if thats ok? Option B should work fine, you could just add a switch there. With option C, that 12V output is not a straight tap off the 12V regulator, there is some current limiting, so wont be able to source any decent current unfortunately. Hi Cicero, Sorry for the delayed reply... The interface powers up fine and the power led comes on. There are no visible breaks in the wires from XLR's to PCB. there was a small break in the PCB but that was previously fixed by a jumper wire being used. I'll check the regulator when I've next got chance but that wont be soon! regarding the current limiting on the 12v supply, any idea what its rated at? The idea I had was to make a small project box with a '+12V present' led and another led that turns on when I switch the switch letting me know the hazer should be 'on'. Cheers,Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Allen Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 Instead of using generic led's that need 20mA for a decent light output, use high intensity led's so you can drop the current to 5mA or less, depending on the brightness of the led. If you look at this selection of Altronics Chrome Bezel LED's which help the led look brighter as the light is focussed, the generic ones are about 50mcd output, but there are 5000mcd ones, which allow you to cut the current back. You just need to find a local supplier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cicero Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 Hi Sam, Do any LED's light up on the remote? Have you checked all wiring inside from the XLR's to the PCB? Also it may be worth doing a quick test using a multimeter on the 5V shunt regulator in the remote (from labels 0V-5V), to see if thats ok? Option B should work fine, you could just add a switch there. With option C, that 12V output is not a straight tap off the 12V regulator, there is some current limiting, so wont be able to source any decent current unfortunately. Hi Cicero, Sorry for the delayed reply... The interface powers up fine and the power led comes on. There are no visible breaks in the wires from XLR's to PCB. there was a small break in the PCB but that was previously fixed by a jumper wire being used. I'll check the regulator when I've next got chance but that wont be soon! regarding the current limiting on the 12v supply, any idea what its rated at? The idea I had was to make a small project box with a '+12V present' led and another led that turns on when I switch the switch letting me know the hazer should be 'on'. Cheers,SamDepending on how old your machine is it varies slightly, but its only about 20mA max. Any more and it may burn out the limiter as well. In a DMX relay board, the relay coil itself will be your highest current thief. It would be best to use an external PSU. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
essell Posted November 20, 2016 Share Posted November 20, 2016 Hi , This is Steve, the service manager for Le Maitre - have you not considered sending the faulty DMX back to us for repair? Hi, during set up for a show, we found out that our Neutrons XS' DMX box has broken. The power LED lights but not the DMX even when the first fixture in the chain with different cables, address and desk... The hazer itself is working on the manual 'haze' switch. So as far as I can tell there are 3 possible quick solutions to this, 1 of which I'm not certain on but would like some advice please! A) buy another DMX interface (at £150+ not likely!) B) make a xlr cable with a switch on the end which shorts pins 2 + 3 together. (As far as I know these pins are the +12v from the hazer to power the interface and +10 signal from the interface to tell the hazer to switch on?) C) Buy a single channel DMX relay chuck it in a small project box and have a separate interface. Most of the relay board I have seen require a 12V dc supply. so instead of having to buy a specific PSU for it, can I just use the +12v from the hazer to power the board? Then I also take the +12v from the hazer to the NO contact of the relay and +10v signal to the COM of the relay or have I missed something? Thanks in advance! Cheers,Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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