Parcan bits

[bruce]

Hi,

 

I have a number of Thomas PAR64 units. A couple are missing the bit at the back - a disk about a couple of inches across, with a knob on the outside and a couple of spring clips inside. Obviously, I want to replace these.

 

The big question - what do you call this bit???

 

Supplementary question. Once I find out the name, I'll do a google to find a supplier. But if anyone knows a cheap source for them....

 

Cheers,

Bruce.

[gareth]

Are you sure you want to replace them? Those backplates on Thomas cans are the work of Satan - a pain in the arse when replacing bubbles, and the handles come loose and start spinning if you so much as look at them. Why not take the opportunity to fit the cans with a nice Parsafe or Parshell instead? A much better solution, IMO.

[peternewman]

Used Lighting says something similar is a rear blanking cap.

http://www.usedlighting.co.uk/Par64-Rear-Blank.gif

 

PN

 

200th post woo! :P

[bruce]

Peternewman - that's the bit!

 

Gareth - are you saying that if I fit Parsafe or similar, then this bit isn't needed?

 

Bruce.

[si_cole]

PARSafes are a lot better and give you more control over the beam and its orientation. I agree with Gareth, they are a pain in the hoop. :-)

[edark]

Parsafe or parshells not only make life soo much easier when focusing, but are double insulated and are therefore much safer.

[gareth]

Gareth - are you saying that if I fit Parsafe or similar, then this bit isn't needed?

Not only would a Parsafe or Parshell render those god-awful Thomas end-caps unnecessary, they'd also make your parcans a damned sight easier to use (and safer, to boot - see the above comment re. double insulation).

[colourwatt]

There is a plus to using those par 64 add on knobs, is that you do not have to completely rewire a new ceramic into place (the ceramic and the bit that sticks outside the can is one unit).

It can be a bit tricky to re-assembe bulb/ceramic-parsafe/cap etc because you cant see whether the bulb prongs have been located correctly especially if the lantern has been damaged/dented in some way, as they so often are.

You may find when new, you will need to open out the ceramic retaining feet and stretch the springy bits to fit your can!!!!

DONT FORGET THE SAFETY BOND.

As for suppliers,

AC Lighting

TMB

Lightfactor- Watford

[James]

I bought mine from White Light.

 

they are Thomas code D0210, the plain blanks without the knob are Thomas code D6475

 

James

[Rob]

Those backplates on Thomas cans are the work of Satan - a pain in the arse when replacing bubbles, and the handles come loose and start spinning if you so much as look at them. Why not take the opportunity to fit the cans with a nice Parsafe or Parshell instead? A much better solution, IMO.

 

I think Gareth is talking about Thomas lamp adjusters rather than plain back plates. The lamp adjusters enable you to rotate the bubble and alleviate the need to stick your fingers in the back of a hot, live can. I really like them and have never had any problems like I have with PARsafes.

[Mars]

You don't have to worry for Thomas' Rear Blanking Caps on the continent: they don't exist! (Or they're chopped out harshly.)

Parsafes

Dot

[mikienorth]

I'm going to be awkward now, and for that I apologise

Parsafe or parshells not only make life soo much easier when focusing, but are double insulated and are therefore much safer.

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A metal cylinder, without an earth attached, in an area where cables have the potential to rest against it, but really shouldn't, but still do.

 

A cable getting rather hot, possibly because someone has used the wrong cable type, possibly because it just gets hot, and then melting against this metal cylinder without an earth.

 

The live core of the cable becoming uninsulated due to dripping molten cable bits, then touching the metal cylinder.

 

Just before you do, either to focus, relamp, or just happen to brush past on the tallescope, or whilst crawling along a truss.

 

Is double insulating really all that safer?

 

Yes parsafes are fantastic, and, lets be honest anything is better than the old ceramics with a loose top, but I like the thomas adjusters, even though they have their difficulties, and wind me up when they get in the way.

Are they not also a partial requirement of CE marking as mentioned in this thread in the Blue Room, to allow enclosure of the lamp with a maximum hole of 25mm? Some Pars at work have a mesh covering the back hole for this reason, makes focusing difficult, but then they aren't in our stage equipment...

[napster]

What is the website address for used lighting

thanks

Iain

[Andrew C]

What is the website address for used lighting 

thanks

Iain

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Used Lighting