Dimmer Curves

[Gazlights]

Hello everyone! First post on this site........looks like a useful resource!

 

My question is on changing dimmer profiles with the Strand 430.

 

The venue I work in has 50 1k parcans rigged in the roof above the stage and we have been replacing a hell of alot of dead bulbs over the last few months.

We think this could be caused by the manner in which they are rigged (pointing straight down) and all the heat is causing them to blow quicker. or that surges or wheeling the level quickly right up to 100% is causing the problem.......highly unlikely I know but we're grasping at straws!!

 

I'm trying to limit the the circuits to run at a maximum level of 95%.

 

Would this be better to do on our dimmers (LD90'S) or from the desk? I've also been looking at all the dimmer profiles prestored on the 430 and there is a hell of alot of them............what the heck are they all used for?

[Stu]

or that surges or wheeling the level quickly right up to 100%  is causing the problem.......highly unlikely I know but we're grasping at straws!! 

This is a subject for many a long debate if you search the archives of RATS (rec.arts.theatre.stagecraft), but I do believe if you go 1 > 50 @ FL in the morning when you get in your asking for trouble - esp if it's cold like it can be in my venue first thing!

 

So I normally warm the filaments up by running a Macro which takes the lanterns from 0 > 30% over 30secs, then up to 50% over another 10 or so then finally to FL in another 10secs.

 

It might just be me, but I really think this protects my precious bubbles when doing a rig check!

 

As for altering the curves on the desk or dimmers - I'd do it on the desk so if you needed to put them back to normal then you could without a lengthly trip to your dimmer room.

 

Also - does the wash act as orchestral downlight? I know it's not always possible to fob orchestras off with the workers, but I try to use them whenever possible in order not to leave our overhead S4 Par wash on all day for 10+hrs a day hence blowing the bubbles even quicker!

 

Unfortauntly in this kind of setup it's a fact of life that you'll be forever changing bubbles as you obviously know.

 

Anyway hope this helps, and good luck.

Stu

 

PS. Moderator hat on - moving to Lighting forum as soon as I press 'Add Reply'...

[Gazlights]

So I normally warm the filaments up by running a Macro which takes the lanterns from 0 > 30% over 30secs, then up to 50% over another 10 or so then finally to FL in another 10secs.

 

Interesting.....good idea! As you said we do usually come in in the morning and have a keypad with six macros with various states (Preset,tuning,show state, larger show state and two spare). I'll have to add that in!

 

does the wash act as orchestral downlight? I know it's not always possible to fob orchestras off with the workers, but I try to use them whenever possible in order not to leave our overhead S4 Par wash on all day for 10+hrs a day hence blowing the bubbles even quicker!

 

Yep......it does act as an Orchestral downlight. Yesterday I had the pars above the stage on 80% AND 75 stand lights at 100% and I still had complaints about people not being able to see their music!!! and dare I mention 'moving lights' I'd have my head chopped of for being a witch!!!

 

Thanks for the advice!

[david.elsbury]

Yes, it always pays to 'warm up' the rig. Protects the bulbs, and if you're in a position to go and take a walk and view the rig, you can see if any lamps are out, or gels are burnt.

David

[eamon]

Hello all

 

I agree with the above. A well warmed up rig can add(or keep) many life hours to your par bubbles

 

If you wish to limit the ON intensity of your 50 cans, I'd reccommend scaling them down in the patch before you add a profile to them. It is easier than setting a curve though this definitely has advantages.

By scaling, you can reduce the rig to 75% with little fuss i.e. when they are a set to ON(full) they are actually only at 75% of their maximum capacity therefore saving precious bulb hours...

the command syntax

dim@PATCH CHAN@PATCH level*

This should work on a range command as well

 

I figure you already know the syntax but as I am writing this.... :D

 

take care

 

eamon

[RogeratActors]

Yes, it always pays to 'warm up' the rig. Protects the bulbs, and if you're in a position to go and take a walk and view the rig, you can see if any lamps are out, or gels are burnt.

David

B-) So true.. cut down bulb usage by 50% just by prewarming rig..

 

Any advise on 'the best' dimmer curve to use?

[JimWebber]

Definitly agree with a slow fade to warm the lights up

 

You say you have had to replace a lot of lamps recently, what sort of time-scaes are we talking?

 

I'm not saying you haven't got a problem, but bear in mind if a lot of lamps were replaced x hours ago, all things being equal they will all start to go about the same time...

[Gazlights]

You say you have had to replace a lot of lamps recently, what sort of time-scaes are we talking?

 

I'm not saying you haven't got a problem, but bear in mind if a lot of lamps were replaced x hours ago, all things being equal they will all start to go about the same time...

 

Well on a bad week could be four or five going.....they seem to be at pretty random times but always the same circuits they are pretty cheap bulbs though and because of the way things worked the pars were used sometimes all day and evening, god knows why the Architects/ lighting designer (most probably architect! :) ) used all parcans in the roof for general lighting!!

 

The problem has since been rectified though, I added a Macro which takes the lanterns from 0 > 30% over 30secs, then up etc... as someone said above. I also scaled them down in the patch too but only to 95% at ON....saves any moaning...Added new kits to all of them too (saves getting electrocuted from the wires that go into the ceramic socket! again!) I actually feel that I spent most of the maintenance period well this year!