marklew productions Posted July 5, 2014 Share Posted July 5, 2014 hi there I'm looking at getting some heat resistant lube to service my moving heads, martin manual states (Teflon-based lubricant) Can anyone recommend somewhere to buy? It will be used on focus spindle as they are getting dry etc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timmeh2 Posted July 5, 2014 Share Posted July 5, 2014 Hi Something like this? http://www.roughtrax4x4.com/p/1297/white-grease.html?gclid=COOPjJ2Cr78CFWKWtAodMW8AvQ All the bestTimmeh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jivemaster Posted July 5, 2014 Share Posted July 5, 2014 You shouldn't need much in your career so ask Martin where they get theirs from,or buy some from Martin. I've also heard of pure graphite powder being used -usually available from locksmiths in tiny bottles. AddedSolid lubricant like Molybdenum sulphide, PTFE, or graphite will likely be what Martin want, they are dry to apply so don't accumulate dust from the fanned airstream so they don't get stiffer with age. Let google loose on "solid dry lubricant" and " solid powder lubricant" The are used by locksmiths because they don't accumulate water that can later freeze, because there is no oil present there is nothing for dust to stick to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxjones2000 Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 We use a brand called Versalube….http://www.wellworthproducts.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=1647 I can't find the exact one we use, but as far as I'm aware it's the same as the link above but in a toothpaste-style tube http://www.blue-room.org.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif We use it for greasing linear accuators, bearings, and just generally anything that needs a bit of lubrication (with exception of CMY colour modules). The only bad thing with it is that after 2-3 years of being sat in a hot fixture it can clog up, so it needs cleaning off with this, and then reapplying every now and then. But we use it on Vari*Lite and Martin fixtures and it works a treat. Just a tip, use it VERRRRRRRY sparingly! *Voice of experience*…. http://www.blue-room.org.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulDF Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 Thomann sell silicon oil specifically for Martin heads, not cheap though! If you look in the manual it ought to say what to use and may even quote a Martin part no.http://www.thomann.de/gb/martin_silicon_oel_02_liter.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timmeh2 Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 pure graphite powder being used Hi Graphite-based products are absolutely the last thing you want to use inside a moving head. Or anything that uses electricity. Not only does graphite powder conduct, the heat causes the carbon to become very sticky. In one of my containers I have 18 Wybron Nexera CMY modules and a followspot that was destroyed by a technician using graphite to lube the moving bits. All the bestTimmeh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigclive Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 I think the real answer to the original question is "lots". Dry graphite is conductive so best not used near logic boards or high voltage areas, but can operate at 450 degrees Celsius or higher. Any oily substance is going to attract dirt and dust. And even when high temperature oils or greases are used, the contaminants that stick to them can burn and cake up into a very hard surface. Silicone oil tends to creep everywhere and is reputed to cause problems with low voltage contacts like buttons, interconnects and DIP switches. The ideal lubricating regime for any light is to use the "area appropriate" stuff sparingly on each critical point if needed. I've seen followspot iris assemblies absolutely destroyed by the reckless application of aerosol graphite based lubricants where the carrier itself seems to be a big factor in the damage. But I'm not sure I know of ANY lubricant that is suited to the leaves of an iris. If it's stiff then maybe it needs a proper service. I should add that WD40 isn't really fit for anything. I've tested it on various things in the past, but even in it's intended moisture displacing capacity it's not very good. It's better just to keep the water out in the first place. However I did once apply WD40 liberally to a very annoying old Vari-Lite knowing full well it was going to be an absolute smoke-fest. And it was. It was hilarious. It was absolutely intentional too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomo Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 Irises and shutters are nearly always permanently lubricated using special coatings on the metal. If you've scratched that off, then it goes in the recycling and you get a new set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jivemaster Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 Getting rid of any old dust loaded lubricant is your first priority. Lint free swabs and the right solvent are a good start. Replacing the old lube with fresh is possibly done as my Hassleblad repairer friend with a fine hypodermic with needle putting only the smallest spot exactly where it is wanted. If Martin say Teflon lube then that's what you should use, and the best place to start sourcing it is Martin spares dept. Just remember that as soon as the new lube gets dusty it will thicken til parts no longer move freely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marklew productions Posted July 11, 2014 Author Share Posted July 11, 2014 Thanks for all the replys, maybe I should ask Martin direct, I did have somone put copper ease on an iris once and I remember that smoked, so I no it's best to check before doing anything wrong Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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